hub temps
Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=6156
Printed Date: 17 Jun 2025 at 1:42pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: hub temps
Posted By: hogone
Subject: hub temps
Date Posted: 01 May 2015 at 6:34pm
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temps for hubs and where to measure? on the wheel? on the drum? just wanted to re-issue. go pack, nice choice. hogone ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2023 F150 2017 HD Streetglide CHEESEHEAD |
Replies:
Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 01 May 2015 at 10:53pm
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Measure from behind - on the drum. ------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 02 May 2015 at 7:56am
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what temps am i looking for or not looking for? hogone ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2023 F150 2017 HD Streetglide CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 02 May 2015 at 7:38pm
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^^^hogone, establish a norm by taking a few measurements and then monitor. I would expect to see maybe 105 - 125. It may go up and down based on braking and brake performance. Look out it you start creeping near 200! The idea is to be able to benefit from "Early Detection" outside of the normal operating range. ------------- Cliff & Raelynn Ranger 4.0/178 (1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity) |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 03 May 2015 at 9:28pm
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i just took a short two day trip (2 hour drive each way). each time i checked, they red in the upper 70's or low 80's. is this possible or was i obviously not hitting the right spot? hogone ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2023 F150 2017 HD Streetglide CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 03 May 2015 at 10:45pm
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Sure, it's possible. Especially if braking was minimal. I point my gun right where the wheel meets the hub, and also at the brake drum. Consider calibrating your laser temp gum by measuring a known temp of something. ------------- Cliff & Raelynn Ranger 4.0/178 (1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity) |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 04 May 2015 at 7:02am
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podster: what would that be; like the inside of my home fridge; im kind of drawing a blank on what to use; but then i just woke up!!!! hogone ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2023 F150 2017 HD Streetglide CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: RPodWeGo
Date Posted: 04 May 2015 at 7:31pm
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Good info to have. Though I have measured temps frankly I never knew where to point the tool. Thanks guys. ------------- RPodWeGo RPod 177 04 v8 Toyota 4Runner |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 04 May 2015 at 8:16pm
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I can believe 70's or 80's, when I do the back-of-the-hand test that is about how they feel. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 04 May 2015 at 11:17pm
You could use a glass of warm or cold water with ice and measure the temp of the water with another thermometer and then compare it with the reading on the laser gun. Maybe use an oral temp thermometer or maybe an outdoor thermometer. ------------- Cliff & Raelynn Ranger 4.0/178 (1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity) |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 05 May 2015 at 6:32am
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10-4 hogone ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2023 F150 2017 HD Streetglide CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 05 May 2015 at 8:33am
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I check mine every time I stop, and I hit the hub, about half way between the wheel and the end of the hub. I agree with Podster that it probably doesn't matter exactly where you take the measurement as long as you are in the right area and are consistent. I haven't done this yet, but the thing to do is probably measure all over and find the hot spot and measure there from now on. I'm talking about checking wheel bearings, not brakes. My temps are generally around 105 to 115, but I have seen them as low as 80-something. A lot depends on ambient and road temperatures. Anyway, having established a norm, I'm going to pay attention to anything much higher than 125, or if one side is out of line the other side. I think that's really the key. I don't know that I see a lot of point in checking brake temps. They are going to be so dependent on recent usage. Maybe if I thought they were dragging.... Again, compare one side to the other though. TT ------------- 2010 176 FJ Cruiser |
Posted By: Luv2Q
Date Posted: 10 May 2015 at 3:26am
Hmm, would also be a good way to check to see if your brakes are even engaging, would it not? I'm still inexperienced enough that I'm not satisfied completely that I have the P3 controller set right. Couch's preset it at '3' .. Said that was right for the P3 & 171. Can't detect it holding the TV back when I manually engage it at 20 mph. Bumped it up to 6 or 7. Still no braking feel or skidding tire. Haven't progressed further from this point. Winter got in the way & haven't used the trailer yet this Spring. Thoughts on this appreciated (& haven't meant to hijack the thread). ------------- John & Teri Tundra 5.7L V8 / RP 180 E2 WDH / Integrated controller (POS) replaced by Tekonsha P3 |
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 10 May 2015 at 3:51am
I don't claim to know a lot about brake controllers, but I think the idea of someone telling you what number to set your controller to is probably bogus. At best it might be a starting point. I crank mine up until I can feel the trailer pulling back when I hit the brakes and dial it back if I ever notice the trailer brakes locking up. I don't look at the numbers when I'm doing this. Maybe when I'm done, I'll try to make a note of the number, but I don't know that I'd rely on it for future adjustments. In my experience, once you get the controller set, it's good to go for a long time. When it's right, you ought to be able to make a quick stop just about exactly as easily with the trailer as without it, maybe a little better. For what it's worth, I have some kind of Tekonsha, I forget which, and I have no idea what number it's on, but 3 sounds very low. TT ------------- 2010 176 FJ Cruiser |
Posted By: fwunder
Date Posted: 10 May 2015 at 8:53am
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I don't believe there is any one "right" power getting for the Prodigy P3. I just finished putting my wheels back together on my 178 after inspecting and repacking bearings. While up on jack stands, I adjusted the "self adjusting" adjustment to just a little drag on both wheels. I figure the self adjusters will do their job, but I do have my doubts. I also did a P3 lever test while in the air just to make sure the brakes were engaging. Time for a test drive. My previous power setting was 9.6. Previously, I never did adjust it to lockup, but the car and trailer felt as though they braked as one unit so I was fine with that for 10K+ miles. Quick suggestion: If you are going on a test drive to check brakes, make sure everything in trailer is well secured!  I started with the P3 at the recommended power level of 6. As before, not enough braking for me. I made quite a few aggressive braking tests to see if the self adjusters might tighten up the brakes. No difference. I slowly worked the power up with more aggressive braking on a long flat roadway @ 25 mph. At a power level of 10.3, I felt comfortable. Braking felt no different than without trailer - the way I like it. I didn't increase power to the point of lockup. I did make a lot of braking tests, forward and reverse. Upon returning home I used an infrared thermometer on both drums. Remember, I was doing a lot of hard braking. They both read between 145-150. This was a good exercise. Sooner than later I will replace the http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter/23-27.html - Dexter Electric Brake Assembly on both wheels. Due to uneven magnet wear on the drums, the drums should be turned or replaced with new assemblies. I believe my initial setup was not well done (with Prodigy Voyager, Fall 2013) and I didn't know what I know now which led to premature and uneven wear. I'm not convinced the self adjusting mechanism works all that great either, but I'm willing to give another set a chance - properly adjusted from the start. More info than was asked for, but that's my recent experience. I'd be interested in any others' experience with the Dexter brake assembly. fred ------------- 2014 RPod 178 => https://goo.gl/CV446f - MyMods and Buying Habits 2008 4Runner Limited 4.0-liter V6 Yes, those are wild ponies dining on grass while dumping tanks! |
Posted By: Luv2Q
Date Posted: 10 May 2015 at 11:34am
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Tars & Fred, thank you both. Definitely *not* too much info. I learned more from your two posts than in all the reading & "learning" I've tried to do up to this point. I'm pretty sure I've never gotten the controller set high enough up to this point, so I'll be a lot more comfortable selecting higher settings - high enough to actually get the dang brakes to engage! Thanks again.  ------------- John & Teri Tundra 5.7L V8 / RP 180 E2 WDH / Integrated controller (POS) replaced by Tekonsha P3 |
Posted By: JandL
Date Posted: 10 May 2015 at 11:35am
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I have a Lippert axle with self-adjusting brakes on my 177 with a Prodigy P3 brake controller. On a trip coming downhill I measured my hub temp after I got home, (the air temp was 80F) the passenger’s side drum was 112F and the driver’s side drum was 103F. I quite carrying my temp meter and I just check the drums by touch. I have a Honda Ridgeline and when heading down hill I push the P3 button for the transmission control. If there is less than 6% grade I don’t have to use the brakes very often. ------------- JandL 2013 Honda Ridgeline 2012 177 2 Paynes in a Pod |