Fresh Water Tank Winterize
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Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5379
Printed Date: 08 Jun 2025 at 6:45am
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Topic: Fresh Water Tank Winterize
Posted By: wildfire305
Subject: Fresh Water Tank Winterize
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2014 at 6:18am
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So I've done a search and can't seem to find anyone saying yes or no to this. The winterizing instructions in the Forest River owners' manual mention putting some antifreeze in the fresh water tank. But most of the instructions I've come accross only involve using the small winterize hose in the pump house. It seems to me that if I just used the winterizing hose, then the hose going to the tank would still have water in it along with the fitting coming out of the tank. We always winterized the tank on the popup. Thoughts, opinions, ?. I also intend to blow out and antifreeze the black water port, and the fresh water inlet. ------------- 2005 Dodge Durango 4.7 V8 OLD Tow Vehicle 2004 Honda Odyssey 2015 RP179 "73b" OLD 2005 Viking Saga 2480ST popup |
Replies:
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2014 at 7:43am
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As mentioned in step 11 ( http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723&PID=14739&title=creating-an-instruction-maintanence-manual#14739 - here ), you just need to drain the water tank. The pickup hose will then be empty. There will be some water left in the tank itself and this isn't a problem since it has plenty of room to expand when it freezes. It takes about 3/4 of a gallon to winterize my pod. You would need several gallons if you put it into the fresh water tank like FR recommends since the remaining water would dilute the antifreeze. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2014 at 12:48pm
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My understanding is that there is two schools of thought here: blow it out or don't blow it out. If you blow it out and drain then use a small amount of anti freeze to treat the P-straps. If you don't blow it out then flush with antifreeze to replace the water remaining after draining. Myself, I'm going to drain, blow it out, and treat my P-traps...done. Concurring with tech, freezing H2O is no problem, as long as it has a place to expand. ------------- Cliff & Raelynn Ranger 4.0/178 (1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity) |
Posted By: wildfire305
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2014 at 12:54pm
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So the water left in the hose feeding from the tank to the pump drains by gravity back to the tank? ------------- 2005 Dodge Durango 4.7 V8 OLD Tow Vehicle 2004 Honda Odyssey 2015 RP179 "73b" OLD 2005 Viking Saga 2480ST popup |
Posted By: wildfire305
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2014 at 12:57pm
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Traps... I intend to shop vac them out and pour in the antifreeze until they seal. Then add half gallon in each dirty tank to treat the lines going to the dump valves ------------- 2005 Dodge Durango 4.7 V8 OLD Tow Vehicle 2004 Honda Odyssey 2015 RP179 "73b" OLD 2005 Viking Saga 2480ST popup |
Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2014 at 1:00pm
Most of it should be removed by running the pump and then some after the tank has been drained and is empty. Kinda like slurping the last few drops of the ice cold beverage at the bottom of a cup, through a straw.  I can hear it now...
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Posted By: wildfire305
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2014 at 1:06pm
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Gotcha. What about the little strainer on the pump? ------------- 2005 Dodge Durango 4.7 V8 OLD Tow Vehicle 2004 Honda Odyssey 2015 RP179 "73b" OLD 2005 Viking Saga 2480ST popup |
Posted By: ArthroPod
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2014 at 1:27pm
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Would recommend removing it and emptying any water. I have had to replace mine because I forgot about and it froze and cracked the plastic . ------------- 177 toad with Ford 150 |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2014 at 1:46pm
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If you use the winterization valve the entire pump will be full of antifreeze. I do not recommend only blowing out the lines. Water will collect in the low points and in the valves, there is no way to get all the water out and while you may get lucky eventually you'll have a problem. You can skip the blow-out and only use the antifreeze, just don't skip the antifreeze and only do the blow-out. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: wildfire305
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2014 at 5:22pm
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Right, I intend to blow out first so as to not dilute my antifreeze. ------------- 2005 Dodge Durango 4.7 V8 OLD Tow Vehicle 2004 Honda Odyssey 2015 RP179 "73b" OLD 2005 Viking Saga 2480ST popup |
Posted By: ToolmanJohn
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2014 at 6:59pm
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Don't put the anti-freeze through the water heater. Bypass the water heater before treating the lines. Anti-Freeze can attack the heat element.
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Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 11:31am
Here is the winterizing procedure straight from the Pentair Shurflo pump manual.  ------------- Cliff & Raelynn Ranger 4.0/178 (1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity) |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 11:57am
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Again, if you use the winterization valve/pickup line (I'm not talking about the bypass valves on the water heater) the pump will be full of antifreeze, so there is no need to disassemble anything. I've been doing winterizations for many years, with campers exposed to temps as low as -10 F, and I"ve never had a damaged water line, water heater, water pump, water tank, or valve. The winterization instructions posted on this site are the culmination of many people's input, and they don't include disassembling the pump. Trust me!  http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723&PID=14739&title=creating-an-instruction-maintanence-manual#14739 - http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723&PID=14739&title=creating-an-instruction-maintanence-manual#14739
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 12:27pm
| Tech, I have no doubt that your procedures are sound and will prevent damage. The information posted is merely a factual alternative. |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 1:42pm
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I understand, just trying to keep people from doing a lot of extra work when it isn't necessary. I recently skimmed through the "owners manual" that came with my FR Salem. I just kept shaking my head at some of the stuff FR was officially telling you to do... like fill the fresh water tank with antifreeze. Sorry if I was a bit forceful, just understand that every single year we get new owners here that literally spend hours arguing in circles about why they don't need to use antifreeze, or follow step X on the list, or do Y, when they could have just spent the 20 minutes following "the list" and done it all in far less time. I don't know why winterization is such a charged topic, lol. One year there was someone who had circled around the issue, arguing he only blew out the lines for years because he was in a marginal-freeze area. Came back eventually saying his sink valves froze and burst... he'll use antifreeze from now on. I don't remember if that was here or on another board I frequent. I'll see if I can find it. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 2:13pm
Understood, looking back over the post I can see how it could be construed as a challenge, but that's not the case at all. It's apparent by your creds and your postings that you know your stuff. Being a new podder, I'm reading all of the manuals cover to to cover and when I see something related to a topic, I'm overcome by a compelling desire to share it. 
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Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 2:45pm
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I certainly don't know everything, please do challenge! ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: heyfly
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2014 at 12:43pm
| In trying to follow instructions on winterization I only found a valve that allows antifreeze to be sucked in. There are no other bypass valves that I found. Two gallons of antifreeze went into the hot water tank and it's asking for more. Looks like more parts/valves are needed. |
Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2014 at 1:02pm
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What Year & Model R Pod do you have? This will help us help you locate your Hot Water Heater bypass...
------------- Cliff & Raelynn Ranger 4.0/178 (1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity) |
Posted By: wildfire305
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2014 at 1:07pm
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Gotta get that antifreeze out of the water heater before it destroys the anode. Or buy a new one anyway because it is probably already ruined. ------------- 2005 Dodge Durango 4.7 V8 OLD Tow Vehicle 2004 Honda Odyssey 2015 RP179 "73b" OLD 2005 Viking Saga 2480ST popup |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2014 at 1:53pm
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Welcome. As mentioned, the bypass valves will be on the rear of your water heater. Locate the WH on the outside of the pod (large metal grate) and then you'll know where to look for it inside.I wouldn't worry over the anode rod. It may not be shot, they can be hardy. After 4 years I replaced mine even though it was barely worn. Even if you need a new one they are cheap. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: heyfly
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2014 at 2:58pm
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We have a 2015 R-178 and loving it. I found the valves under the bed. The only valve under the sink was the one for pumping the antifreeze. I moved the mattress to the dinette side and will leave it there until spring. This forum and youtube makes us all experts (in our own minds!) ------------- 2015 R-178 TV Chevy 1500 Silverado. Wife and I Retired Jan 2014 |
Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2014 at 4:16pm
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"I found the valves under the bed." Ok, well I have a R-178 as well and although I have not winterized as of yet, I do recall the service tech, during my walk around check out, pointing out an access panel within the rear storage compartment, heater side (curb side). Should be just 4 screws to pull the panel and the valves should be right there. I think it's the R-179 that requires you go in under the mattress. Anyway, enjoy your R-178 and HAPPY RETIREMENT!
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Posted By: wildfire305
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2014 at 12:56am
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I have the 179 and I am an average sized person (6' 200 pounds). It is difficult to get to that access panel under the bed. A bigger person would have to remove the mattress and plywood to do it. When the furnace is running, you can't put anything under there in the storage area at all, way too hot. ------------- 2005 Dodge Durango 4.7 V8 OLD Tow Vehicle 2004 Honda Odyssey 2015 RP179 "73b" OLD 2005 Viking Saga 2480ST popup |
Posted By: kandk920
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2014 at 8:51pm
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The water heater bypass on the 2015 178 is DEFINITELY under the bed on the left(slide-out) side of the camper. The panel with the 4 screws is located under the sink and are to get to the intake bypass to draw antifreeze into the system directly from the bottle. ------------- 2015 R-Pod 178 2008 Town & Country Fox Valley, WI |
Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2014 at 6:53am
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"The water heater bypass on the 2015 178 is DEFINITELY under the bed..." ------------- Cliff & Raelynn Ranger 4.0/178 (1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity) |
Posted By: wildfire305
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2014 at 7:59pm
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As a plumber and after inspecting everything while winterizing, I ended up putting a gallon of antifreeze in the water tank because I didn't want to take any chances. There is a loop on my intake hose and that will hold water. That flexible hose (not pex) probably wouldn't break even if it did freeze.
Do I need to get all the water out of the heater? I noticed with the anode removed it still held about 3/8" in the bottom. I could try to suck it out with a bit of hose if I need to. Speaking of anodes, my anode already looked bad after being in service three months. Stayed in it a total of 20 nights during that time and I drain between uses. Must be the water I guess. Anyone else from greater Cincinnati experience that? ------------- 2005 Dodge Durango 4.7 V8 OLD Tow Vehicle 2004 Honda Odyssey 2015 RP179 "73b" OLD 2005 Viking Saga 2480ST popup |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2014 at 8:29pm
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Don't worry about the water left in the WH. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2014 at 12:44am
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I do siphon the last bit of water out of the HWT. My anode after 4 years has about 75% of wear left. I don't want to brag, but we do have one of the best drinking water in all of North America. ------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: ToolmanJohn
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2014 at 6:30am
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Personally I don't allow any anti-freeze into the hot water heater. I was told that the anti-freeze can attack the electric element and anode rod. That was what the bypass valves are for , to keep the anti freeze from entering the hot water heater. I just drain the fresh tank and hot and cold lines then close the low point drains, bypass the water heater, use almost 2 gallons sucked into the winterization pickup hose for the hot and cold lines (open both valves on the kitchen sink and bathroom sink and run the toilet until pink flows out) and also pour into P-Traps. Done. In the Spring, I drain the anti-freeze from the low point drains, I fill the fresh tank with about 3-4 cups of chlorine bleach, fill with city water, the run out the hot and cold lines until clear of anti-freeeze. Let sit for a day. Then drain the entire thing again. Fill with fresh and drain again. The very last thing I do is open the hot water heater bypass valves. I don't want chlorine in the hot water tank, that is bad for the anode rod and heat element. It takes a while but this is exactly how it was relayed to me by the owner of the RV dealership I bought my first TT from (not an R-Pod), and he was my high school buddy. He took over the dealership from his uncle. He said just blowing out the lines is OK, but in rare cases, the way a trailer is made can affect how much water remains in certain lines/areas/low spots. There may be some small amount of water left over, just how much is not known, so it's safest to use anti-freeze so thinks can't crack. ------------- 2017 ATC 7X20 Custom Toy Hauler 2013 R-Pod 177 (SOLD) 2013 VW Touareg TDI |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2014 at 6:42am
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the only thing i do differently than toolmanjohn is i do run the bleach mix through the hot water heater when dewinterizing (which maybe i should'nt) and i don't use that much bleach (which maybe i should). hogone ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |