bypass
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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5364
Printed Date: 18 May 2025 at 5:35pm
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Topic: bypass
Posted By: rcamper
Subject: bypass
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2014 at 7:41am
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i was told to lift up the queen bed and unscrew the panel to get to the water heater bypass valve. it seems they could have made a access panel. imagine holding the queen bed up then unscrewing the board then pumping antifreeze through. the tech said this way i would use less antifreeze than going througe the holding tank. living in south carolina i think i will just drain the water system and dump some antifreeze in the traps this is a 178 ------------- gone camping |
Replies:
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2014 at 8:26am
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I don't know about a 179, but while you do need to flip the WH bypass valve as part of the winterizing process, you don't put antifreeze in there, or through the holding tank. The antifreeze intake hose and valve on my 176 is under the kitchen sink. It's an open-ended hose. You do have to remove a panel but you don't have to hold up a bed. That said, holding up a bed just requires some sort of prop -- a 2x2 cut to length, for example. TT ------------- 2010 176 FJ Cruiser |
Posted By: Tanager
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 3:03pm
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Sorry, the intake hose on the 179 is under the queen bed. Not an ideal location. You have to remove the mattress, then remove screws and prop up the plywood bed base. You could also reach it through the access door underneath the bed, but it is a tight fit and anyone with short arms or any bulk would not be able to reach in there and would have to remove the bed. I purchased a blow-out valve that attachers to the city water inlet and has a quick connect fitting for an air compressor. The Forest River manual (wish there was an rPod manual!) says blowing out all the lines with the compressor set at no more than 30 lbs per sq in, then pouring antifreeze in all the traps, would work. This would also eliminate having to flush the antifreeze from the clean water system in the spring, just sanitize it. Anyone else doing this? I'd be interested to know if you've had luck with this method. ------------- Tanager |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 8:03pm
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When we bought our 177 the tech asked if I wanted the screws put back in the plywood after he showed me the valves. I said no, and now to shift the valves I lift the mattress and plywood, hold it up with my shoulder and shift the valves. On the 177 the hose is under the sink. I blow out the system first but always pump the system full of antifreeze. It is no big trick to flush out the antifreeze in the spring. ------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: rpodrog
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 8:35pm
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I too have an interest in this method.
The RV tech that walked use through our 179 described the same thing. Now I see you mentioned this. The tech mentioned he does not even use the anti-freeze on his own unit. Just blows out the lines. We live in GA. I wonder about hot water tank using this approach. That too is the bed. BTW I left only one screw to hold the plywood down to ease getting under there |
Posted By: Budward
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 8:43pm
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All I've ever down was drain then blow out the lines, has worked for me for 40 years. I used antifreeze one time only and was dismayed at how hard it was to get the taste out of the system. I do use it in the traps.
------------- 2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle! |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 9:53pm
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A lively discussion of this topic in the last few days here: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5379&title=fresh-water-tank-winterize%20 - http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5379&title=fresh-water-tank-winterize ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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