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Cabinets

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Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=4599
Printed Date: 09 Jun 2025 at 5:55am
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Topic: Cabinets
Posted By: marwayne
Subject: Cabinets
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2014 at 11:14pm
If you want more cabinet space, here is how I built our corner cabinets. Pics are worth 1000 words.



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If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.





Replies:
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 8:26am
Just a cabinet?  That's all you did this time?
 
I'm kidding!  Looks good, as always.  I like how you created the support on the ceiling with multiple pieces to conform to the curve.  Not sure I would support the floor from below with a few screws.  With the dynamic loading going down the road and a full cabinet I'd put supports in from below, even though they would be visible.  Maybe if you screwed & glued on all edges that is ok.


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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: kymooses
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 9:33am
Originally posted by techntrek

Just a cabinet?  That's all you did this time?
 
I'm kidding!  Looks good, as always. 


LOL


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Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 10:55am
Tech, the supports you are talking about are there, they are inside the cabinet. The strip on the ceiling is in two pieces with a cut almost through every 3 to 4", it is easier to keep it in line.
Just because you can't see them dos not mean there not there.

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If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.




Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 10:57am
Great job as always!!!! Goose

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Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee


Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 11:50am
There is that misconception that a shelf support has to be under the shelf, not so. You can make it invisible by putting it inside the cabinet.



The supports don't have to be 2 or 3" wide, for these small cabinets 3/4" to 1" is quite sufficient.

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If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.




Posted By: bmkparshall
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 12:17pm
Looks really nice!
I'm considering a few mods, but not sure about the attachment to the wall.
With wood wall supports would I need to pre-drill thru the support and wall surface and then using the pre-drilled hole in the wall surface as a guide, make the hole larger to insert a plastic wall anchor? Any help is greatly appreciated!


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B MK Parshall
2016 Silverado 5.3 V8 and R-178 Poddler


Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 12:33pm
marwayne:  you do some really nice work.  hogone

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Jon & Pam
2013 RP177
2010 F150
2017 HD Streetglide
2009 HD Lowrider
CHEESEHEAD


Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 12:46pm
This is the second cabinet in that location, I made the first one 10" deep so I wouldn't bump my head on it, as it turned out there was a lot of room left so I made the second one 14" deep and still have room to spare.
I don't use any anchors, predrill the holes in the supports so the screws go through freely and than fasten it to the wall. I use coarse thread dry wall screws (grabbers) but be careful you don't overturn them. You be surprised how well it holds.

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If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.




Posted By: fwunder
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 2:16pm
Beautiful work, as always.

What is your stain mix?

fred


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2014 RPod 178 => https://goo.gl/CV446f - MyMods and Buying Habits
2008 4Runner Limited 4.0-liter V6
Yes, those are wild ponies dining on grass while dumping tanks!


Posted By: headcold
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 3:46pm
Great plans, pictures, and explanations.  Before I launch into this project, I need to figure out how to anchor and support the long end of cabinet in my 177, which is configured differently than the 172 that has that useful partition on which to anchor the long end of the cabinet.


Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 5:00pm
The stain is my own concoction. It depends on what kind of wood you use because every wood has it's own color.






This is the shelf from the cabinet I took out, as you can see the shelf has a support on the back and on the right side, those have to be glued to the shelf to become one, then you put the strip on the right side and on the ceiling. When you glue the front into place the whole thing becomes one. It's not going anywhere, my cabinets have bin in our trailer for 3 years and nothing has moved.
The front is 1/4" oak plywood with a frame around the door on the inside opening to stiffen it up. Most of the material for my cabinets is 1/4" plywood.

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If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.




Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 8:17pm
I did see the supports above, I was only questioning if they were supporting the shelf via a few screws, or screws + glue.  Only screws and I'd worry about failure in a camper.

Headcold, when I added shelves I used Molly bolts to secure to the walls.



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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 8:28pm
No glue, just a few drywall screws into the wall

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If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.




Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 9:17pm
I'm talking about the interface between the support and the cabinet floor, where vertical forces will pull on the screws as the pod bounces.

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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: Lefty
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2014 at 7:38am
Marwayne,

Beautiful work. How did you get the curve for the ceiling fit so accurate?

Thanks,   Lefty


Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2014 at 1:38pm
Lefty,I made a rough template out of cardboard, transferred it on to the plywood but made it about 1/2" wider and 1" longer than you need. Now you hold it in to place and scribe the vertical side and plane to fit, then you scribe the curve and fit. Once it fits mark what is hanging over on the bottom shelf and trim. Make sure you take everything out for staining.

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If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.




Posted By: Lefty
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2014 at 4:06pm
Thanks Marwayne


Posted By: Two Peas in a Pod
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 4:17pm
Did you use a saber saw to follow a pre-made template for the panel that follows the ceiling line? Seems it would be difficult to make it so perfect.

Thanks!


Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 5:00pm
I transferred the template onto the plywood and cut it out with a saber saw, then I fine tuned it with a sanding disc on the table saw, then for a little more fine fine tuning I used a sanding block with sandpaper.

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If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.




Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 06 May 2014 at 2:28pm
Jim, the gable is the long vertical side of your cabinet. If you have a 1/2"x3/4" strip on the inside back edge and on the top inside edge of the gable you can screw the gable into the wall and into the ceiling. If you consider an upper kitchen cabinet is held up by a few screws and that cabinet is heavier then your little corner cabinet loaded. I do have a little experience in carpentry/ furniture/ cabinet building, only over 55 years.

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If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.




Posted By: headcold
Date Posted: 06 May 2014 at 8:03pm
Got it.  Thanks.  In fact the solution you suggest is exactly the one that I was about to try.  However, your confirmation of that approach assures me that it is worth the try.  I originally was planning to use 1/4 oak veneer plywood o the long vertical side of the cabinet, now I will switch to 1/2 inch.  I'll post some pictures as soon as I master the curve on the front piece.  Right now, I am - as they say - behind the curve.

I am planning to use 1 1/2 grabber sheet-rock-like screws to anchor the back cleat, on the assumption that I have about 1 to 1 1/2 inch of pod skin to anchor them in.

Again, thank you so much.  Yes, 55 years of cabinet building does make a difference.



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