Upgraded to Camplite 21RBS
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Topic: Upgraded to Camplite 21RBS
Posted By: CharlieM
Subject: Upgraded to Camplite 21RBS
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2013 at 12:55pm
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We brought our new 2014 Camplite 21RBS home this week. We
bought it from Little Campers Direct in Aberdeen, MS. Salesman Tommy was great
and the deal was great. They only sell direct so they didn’t take a trade in,
but they agreed to take the RPOD on consignment. They felt they could get a
good price for it and they have a large area from which they draw.
The factory options ordered included: U-shaped dinette, spray on chassis insulation, A/C, microwave, entertainment package, awning, off-road tires and axels, LED light pkg, dual propane tanks. The factory was very accommodating on mods I requested: Custom designed 4x4 inch rear bumper, black tank back-flusher, added 12V socket in bath, added skylight in shower, dual battery holder, gas/electric water heater. These were all installed with excellent engineering and workmanship. Unexpected upgrades were a ceiling light above dinette and a real 8 inch mattress. That was a real surprise. We spent one night out on our way home and everything worked fine. One thing that needs work is the cold floor. The temperature got down to 32F and the aluminum floor was COLD! Even with the sprayed on insulation, which doesn’t really insulate but does block airflow, the bare floor is tough on bare feet. The included rug helped, but more floor covering is needed to keep the cold out. Think rugs and Yoga mats. On the plus side the walls and ceiling are well insulated and the windows are double pane. Also the dual battery rack will hold two golfers, but not in cases. I’ll rebuild the rack and fix that. Overall I’m very pleased with the upgraded camper and Little Campers Direct. The walk-around bed, dry bath, and 7cu.ft. fridge, and slide out dinette make all the difference in the world. It’s better than a Hampton Inn! The new TV (supercharged V6 Tacoma) seemed to work fine, but the real test is Colorado next year.
 So here are the pictures to prove it really did happen. The only thing I could add is a picture of my check! That would really prove it happened  Enjoy camping, ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Replies:
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2013 at 1:01pm
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Looks Good! Our dealings with the factory have all been positive.. If I may ask, how much was the shower skylight option? That is the one and only thing not in the regular factory options list we want.. ------------- |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2013 at 1:13pm
Furpod, I can't say on individual options. I didn't break them out individually. I think the factory charges a one time engineering charge, but that may include all the requested changes. The skylight was so big and well done that I suspect they had engineered this mod before. It really makes a difference when standing in the shower. The folks at Littel Campers were so impressed that they decided to order all future units with that mod. Charlie ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2013 at 8:49am
Furpod, Coming from the RPOD world, a few other convenience items you may want to consider: Gas/electric water heater: The Suburban SW6DE is a drop in form/fit replacement and just requires 120V wiring. Livinlite even installs a lighted toggle switch inside the camper. Black tank backflusher: This is a real convenience. For some reason LL is reluctant to provide this as a standard, but almost all other camper lines are going this way. LL did an excellent job installing one for me. And a not so obvious item: Water tank gauges. The Camplite has no tank level gauges. Even though the ubiquitous internal probe tank sensors are a pain, they are sometimes useful. I am looking at adding the SeeLevel gauge system. It uses external glue on sensors that should be more reliable and can be added without tank removal or drilling. Enjoy campling, Charlie ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2013 at 10:03am
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Charlie, Thanks for your notes.. I bet the more you camp, the more you notice.. So the "stock" WH is gas only? We could live with that no problem, but good to know to ask for a 2-way. Interesting the no tank probes.. That has surely been an industry standard for a long long time.. I know for sure Airstream had them as far back as '69.. We have done a bit of research on them, my dad says he has never had a camper with "reliable" gauges.. we plan to switch to these.. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_automotive?ie=UTF8&field-brandtextbin=Horst+Dynamic&node=15684181 - LINK I meant to ask.. is your city water inlet on the street side? It appears you have a hose and filter hooked up on the curb side?? Mark ------------- |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2013 at 11:37am
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Mark, You are correct but I spend a lot of time at home solving problems I don't even have yet. Just the engineer in me. And it even helps sometimes. The stock WH is gas only. No real issue except for added redundancy and the cost of propane vs "free" electricity already paid for at the campground. And the gas and electric can run simultaneously for faster shower recovery. I don't think there is any satisfactory internal probe solution. The Horst probes claim to be better, but marginally I think. The SeeLevel system works on a totally different principle and is entirely external to the tanks. More $$ but I think it is technically better and it's easy to retrofit, especially since you have the wiring in place. http://www.rvgauge.com/products/model_709RP.shtml The city and fresh water filler ports are on the right (curb) side as is the backflusher if ordered. No problem. Just carry more hose and snake it. The shore power, cable TV and dump connections are on the left side. Camp on, Charlie ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: Sleepless
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2013 at 2:59pm
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Charlie, I have only had one travel trailer that came with a propane only water heater. One of my negotiation points with the dealer was the installation of a Hott Rod. You are probably familiar with them, but for those who are not, it is an electric element that screws into the tank's drain plug opening. They ran the 120 volt line into the cabin along with a 120 volt receptacle near the bottom of a cabinet. I had to install a switch with an "on" light after I took possession. The Hott Rod is an efficient accessory items sold in most RV supply stores for under $100.00. I never had to use the propane heater all the time I owned that trailer. Bottom line: You can convert any heater to use an electric element. No big deal. ------------- 2014 R-Pod 178 (OUR POD) 2009 Chevrolet Avalanche |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2013 at 3:16pm
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Sleepless, Very interesting. I've never heard of the Hott Rod. I was able to request a WH transplant from the factory because I special ordered the Camplite. But, for those not so able, your solution is great. Thanks for the info. Charlie ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2013 at 6:45pm
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One downside with that solution is you are removing the anode rod, so you'll be cutting down on the life of the tank. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: Sleepless
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2013 at 7:00pm
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That is a very good point, one that I had not considered before. I checked the manufacturer's web site and it states that "The Suburban reducer includes a built-in anode." I did not check any further, so that is all I know about the anode. http://dg-usa.com/hott-rod/ Bob ------------- 2014 R-Pod 178 (OUR POD) 2009 Chevrolet Avalanche |
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2013 at 9:35pm
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I suppose the thing to do is to follow the hott-rod link, but first, I'm confused about the drain plug. I suspect Techntrek is correct to interpret that as anode. Taking that out is probably not the best idea, but I wonder if the hott-rod could include an anode as part of the package. Smaller, certainly, than the one that was removed, but still workable at least in theory. TT ------------- 2010 176 FJ Cruiser |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2013 at 5:48pm
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I suppose you could cut the threaded end off of an anode rod and just shove it inside, but you wouldn't be able to check how much of it is left.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2013 at 6:10pm
Would that work? You need the electrical connection for it to erode (electrolysis) , and without the threads I don't think I would trust it. ------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2013 at 6:23pm
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You must be right about the electrical connection, else why call it an anode, but then what about teflon tape around the threads? Interesting question. I haven't checked the anode in my home water heater since it was installed. Not sure how long that's been. A while... I have thought to look at Lowe's, where I got the WH, and they either don't have any anodes or a very limited selection that doesn't include the one I need. They seem to be a very low priority item in the big box home DIY stores. Makes one wonder how important they really are. I'm sure the stores would rather sell water heaters than anodes, so there's that too. TT ------------- 2010 176 FJ Cruiser |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2013 at 8:19pm
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confused...............what electrical connection on a anode rode is there............at least mine doesn't have one......maybe im missing something ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: Sleepless
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2013 at 8:27pm
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We are back to the manufacturer's claim that the reducer has a built-in anode. Hott Rods have been around for a few decades so they should have perfected the anode portion of their product. Tars Tarka brings up another good point about household water heater anodes seem to live forever. I have experienced the same thing. I might add that I have been RVing for about 50 years and have never had to replace an anode. I guess the life of an anode varies greatly depending on the water used in an area. I think the manufacturer is the best source of detailed information about their built-in anode. ------------- 2014 R-Pod 178 (OUR POD) 2009 Chevrolet Avalanche |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2013 at 8:37pm
Very good question. Will have to do some research. As for the big-box stores carrying anode rods for home heaters, they don't. I tried to get one for my own heater just a few weeks ago and even had an employee walk down the aisle with me. However, I do see one on HD's website, and they'll ship it free to your local store. Cheaper than one I found on Amazon, too. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2013 at 8:39pm
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It isn't 12 or 120 volts, it is a microvolt flow of electrons from the chemical reactions taking place between the anode rod, the water, and the walls of the water heater. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2013 at 8:36am
The connection is made through the plumbing threads on the plug. Teflon tape fills the gaps but wears away where metal to metal contact is good making the connection. My concern with one not connected is that it will not make a connection and just get covered with the sediment that forms in the heater. ------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2013 at 9:07am
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Also.. if you live where the water is soft.. like Florida, an anode doesn't have much to do. If you live where I do, and the "water" is really just very very fine rocks, the anode does a whole lot. In our home water heater, I change out the anode every 4 years. The box stores don't have them, because most home owners do no PM on their homes. They would rather just buy a new WH when the old one fills with scale. But ALL the plumbing supply houses have them. No confusion about it when you walk up to the counter either. For my reef aquarium, make up and top off water quality is very important, so I monitor our water. "Hard water" starts at 121mg/L, "very hard" is above 181mg/L. Ours fluctuates a bit through the year, and right now it's a bit "softer" than normal, when proccessing water Monday, my incoming water was around 385mg/L. I run a 6 stage RO/DI system I custom built to bring it down to 0-2mg/L. (my meter has a 2 point measurement.) Monthly I open the flush valve on our WH and get a 1/2 cup or so of scale out. It used to be worse, but I lowered our tank temperature from 140F to 120F and that helped some. ------------- |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2013 at 10:28am
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Sounds like you know your water! Most I do is check our pH every 3-6 months. Ours is slightly acidic so we have a
calcium
treatment system to neutralize it.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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