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Furnace or Thermostat

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Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=4148
Printed Date: 07 Jun 2025 at 9:35am
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Topic: Furnace or Thermostat
Posted By: madisonprep01
Subject: Furnace or Thermostat
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2013 at 9:27am
Hi all,

It's finally gotten a little bit cold here in North Carolina and we are headed out for the fall camping trip with out friends.

we have an R-pod 172 T.  We have a separate air conditioning and furnace unit in our R-Pod.  The Thermostat for the furnace is located on the wall next to the bathroom.  I went to fire up the furnace just to test it before we head out, and nothing happened.  I made sure the siwtch was in the off position, then I opened the gas line from the tank, then moved the switch on to the On position at about 80 degrees.  Nothing happened after 10 minutes.  I moved the switch back to the off position, let it sit for 10 minutes, then repeated the process.  Still nothing! 

I know the LP tank is full.  When I say nothing happens, I mean nothing is happening.  The fan doesn't kick on or anything.

Does this sound like a Thermostat problem?  If so, what kind of replacement should I get and where can I get it?  

Thanks so much!




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Brannon
08-Kia Sedona



Replies:
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2013 at 10:02am
Fan is in "auto" or "AU"..

thermostat is in "Heat" or "HE"

Lines purged? Light the stove to help.

12v is OK? either on batteries or pod plugged in?

Fuse for heater fan is good?


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Posted By: madisonprep01
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2013 at 10:07am
Thermostat is set to Heat, Battery is OK/Charged, tested the POD off 30AMP connection.

One thing I just noticed is that the Fuse for the Furnace unit is the wrong Amperage.  Someone shoved a 30A Fuse, which is way over what the fuse slot calls for.  

I will try replacing that and see what happens!


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Brannon
08-Kia Sedona


Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2013 at 10:59am
First things first: the furnace is designed to wait 30 minutes after a failed start before it will try again.  So, unplug your r-pod, disconnect one of the battery terminals, go grab a coffee and wait.  Then, connect the battery again (don't bother with shore power, it just complicates things).

Check that the furnace fuse is intact (use a multimeter to be sure).  Replace if necessary.  The appropriate amperage for your trailer will be written beside the fuse slot.

Also, at this early point in diagnosis, the status of the propane tank and lines doesn't matter.  Regardless if the tank is connected or not, a working furnace will cycle and the fan will come on.  If there is no ignition, it will shut down after a few minutes of blowing cold air.

As furpod mentioned above - have you checked the settings on your thermostat?  Are you sure that its set to heat?  Are you sure that the fan is set to auto?  Are you sure that the temperature is set well above the ambient temperature?

If everything looks good so far, then your problem is likely the furnace motherboard itself, the wiring or the thermostat.  Eliminating the thermostat is easy enough - remove the unit from the wall carefully and then jump the two furnace wires (don't get them confused with the A/C wires); the furnace should start right away.  But, frankly, these types of problems are rarely with the thermostat.  Checking the wiring is also easy enough - a visual inspection and a few checks with a multimeter.  If nothing pans out, your problem is likely the motherboard and its time for a trip to the dealership.


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Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150


Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2013 at 1:31pm
A "to large" fuse will not cause a "running" problem.

A bad fuse will.

The fuse label/actual fuse location is a bit iffy on the couple pods I have checked, but make sure no fuses are blown, and no actual circuits are unfused.. sounds dumb, but I have seen it. two screws take the cover off you power distribution panel, pull the cover, look at the circuits directly from the front.. DMM them all to make sure they have 12v. Go back to the heater, DMM there, make sure power is back there in the first place..


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