Winterizing Newbie question
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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3995
Printed Date: 15 May 2024 at 8:16pm
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Topic: Winterizing Newbie question
Posted By: Lefty
Subject: Winterizing Newbie question
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 7:17am
| Since I don't own an air compressor, I was wondering if I could blow the water lines clear using a bicycle pump and the blow out adapter connected to the city water connector. From everything I've read, the recommended pressure is 20psi. Is this possible? |
Replies:
Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 10:38am
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Successfully (completely) blowing out the lines is difficult enough using the proper equipment. Its not just the air pressure, but the volume of air that is key to clearing the lines. Using a bicycle pump is a bad idea. RV antifreeze is very easy to use and protects very well. Is there a specific reason you haven't mentioned using it? ------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: Lefty
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 10:53am
| No real reason. I just thought that all water had to be removed from pipes even I were to use antifreeze. Am I wrong? |
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 11:29am
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You don't have to blow out the lines, when the pump sucks in the antifreeze it won't mix with the water it displaces the water, the difference is that you have to use a little more antifreeze. PS; don't forget to push the pin in the city water intake valve. ------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 12:17pm
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Good reminder. It is close to freezing at night here, although we are supposed to have a warm week next week. We won't get out any more this year it appears, so next week I winterize. ------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: Lefty
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 2:29pm
| Thank you for your reply. What do you mean "push in the pin"? |
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 4:18pm
Carefully remove the screen and push the little white pin, this is a backflow valve if it wasn't there and you use water from your water tank the water would squired out of your city water connection.
 ------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: Lefty
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 4:22pm
| Thank you. Do I need to do something to get the pin back out when I de-winterize? |
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 4:26pm
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No you don't. ------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 5:27pm
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The pin is on a spring; you have to hold it in to drain. After it squirts the water and then antifreeze out (usually up my shirt sleeve) and you release it, the pin/valve will reseat itself. ------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 5:29pm
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The biggest reason to blow the lines out first, is to clear that short piece of hose that runs from the city water connection to the rest of the system. I hand pump should be fine for this, if you don't want to remove the screen and push the pin to allow a backflow of antifreeze.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
|
Posted By: Lefty
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 5:29pm
| Now I understand. Thank you. |
Posted By: Camper Bob
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2013 at 8:10am
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I got a large volume hand pump at the sporting goods store. About $19. Worked great. Safe Travels. ------------- Camper Bob and Camper Sue Gracie the Wonder Dog (12 LB. Mini Dachshund) 2013 Rpod 171HRE(ORPod) 2016 Lance 1685 2015 Nissan Pathfinder |
Posted By: lumilew
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2013 at 10:48am
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Can I winterize by putting 4gallons rv anti freeze into fresh water tank than run it thru all water systems? I would drain the hot water tank first by turning two valves off and one valve open right? Then I take out the anode to drain it?
Thanks Luanne rp178 ------------- Luanne |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2013 at 4:42pm
Yes, that would cover it.. more or less. But you should have a winterization hookup at you water pump... If you just pump into the system from there, it takes about 3 quarts.. and Yes, to winterize the WH, you move the valves to the bypass position, and remove the anode to drain. I also, rinse the inside of the WH with a hose, we have VERY hard water here, and there is a fair amount of loose scale by the end of the camping season.. ------------- |
Posted By: lumilew
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2013 at 9:04pm
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Thanks for the quick reply. My next question is do I access the water heater valves thru the panel in the rear storage area on the rp178? If not there than where?
Thanks Luanne ------------- Luanne |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2013 at 10:18pm
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On the 177 it is under the bed. It may be on a 178 but I assumed similarity before and was wrong. ------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 6:54am
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you can access through the rear panel or under the bed; at least on the 177 you can ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: lumilew
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 7:22am
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So how are you getting under the bed? ------------- Luanne |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 8:36am
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Lift/remove mattress, remove about 8 screws from panel under bed, lift panel.
------------- |
Posted By: lumilew
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 8:42am
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Thanks. I do appreciate all this help. I'm sure you pros are thinking that this is not rocket science. Lol. Just want to make sure there is no trick to all this that I am missing.
Thanks again. ------------- Luanne |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 9:01am
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BTW, once under there.. a person could cut that long panel, and then add a couple screws, so NEXT time you have to go under there, (say, in the spring) you only have to remove the part of the panel directly over the valves..
------------- |
Posted By: lumilew
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 9:47am
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Thanks. I just removed the panel in the back baggage compartment and i can reach the three valves on the water heater from there. Now if I wanted to pump antifreeze thru the pump, how do I access the pump?
------------- Luanne |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 9:53am
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Guessing the layout is the same from 177 to 178.. remove the lowest left hand panel below the sink, should find the pump under there. ------------- |
Posted By: lumilew
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 10:10am
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Awesome....thanks! ------------- Luanne |
Posted By: lumilew
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 10:24am
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Also, all the winterizing info says to open two low something caps under the trailer. Do rpods have those and where underneath? I cant see any. ------------- Luanne |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 10:27am
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"low point drains" Look along the bottom edge of your trailer, on the slide itself I think, and you should see a sticker that says... "low point drains".. sort of behind there and under the trailer.. also there is a cap on the bottom of the fresh water holding tank that needs to be openedand drained. ------------- |
Posted By: lumilew
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 10:37am
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Found sticker behind the slide. Crawled all around and the only drain plug is the one on the fresh water tank...right behind the sticker. Could this be right? There are definately no other drain plugs unless they were covered with all that foamy looking stuff. ------------- Luanne |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 10:46am
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You don'thave to go under the trailer, they should be about even with kitchen sink, maybe a bit forward, on yhe bottom of the camper, but outside the frame rail.. ------------- |
Posted By: lumilew
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 10:51am
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Yeah.....I found one just where you said. Should there be 2? This one had a black cap. Thank you so much!! ------------- Luanne |
Posted By: lumilew
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 10:59am
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Ok after further review the second drain is right next yo the first but buried under the foam. I broke some of that off and hopefully will be able to remove it. Thank you again. I would never have found those. ------------- Luanne |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 10:59am
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Should be one for hot, one for cold..
------------- |
Posted By: lumilew
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 11:00am
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Ok after further review the second drain is right next yo the first but buried under the foam. I broke some of that off and hopefully will be able to remove it. Thank you again. I would never have found those. ------------- Luanne |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2013 at 10:52pm
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My question is about the pink 'RV antifreeze'.....I can't find anywhere online where it would be 'safe' to use in my homemade 1/2" black tubing vegetable garden irrigation system. Does anyone know if the stuff has any adverse reaction on soil used for vegetable gardens?
------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 9:10am
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I don't know anything about winterizing a garden... maybe try GardenWeb.com...? In general, any outside hose will be fine if it freezes. It's the hose bib and and house plumbing that is in danger if the hose stays connected to it and holds water in that freezes. The RV anti Freeze is safe/non toxic to humans, otherwise you couldn't use it in your drinking water system. But in high concentration, what it would do to plants I don't know. ------------- |
Posted By: P&M
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 11:35am
Just my 2 cents worth. ------------- P & M ... and Comet too! 2012 171 -- The Monkey Pod 2018 Ram 2500 |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 11:43am
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MSDS for RV antifeeze..
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/56/56c92110-bc8b-48e3-91ee-54df5e792462.pdf - MSDS
From another source.. "Similarly, propylene glycol is an approved food additive for human food as well. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propylene_glycol#cite_note-37 - [ " ------------- |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 3:04pm
|
S C A R Y ----- The Walmart stuff is poison, and the Camco -50 seems to be the 'safest-of-the-bunch', as far as I can come up with in online searches. Anyone have an msds link or experience using this? http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/50-below-rv-antifreeze-gallon/57726#qanda - http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/50-below-rv-antifreeze-gallon/57726#qanda Here's what I was referring to regarding the 'walmart' RV antifreeze: http://www.heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/34372-Warning-toxic-antifreeze/page2 - http://www.heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/34372-Warning-toxic-antifreeze/page2 ------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 3:49pm
Please link whatever you are looking at at walmart... ??? RV anti freeze is RV anti freeze. Wal Mart doesn't make it's own. And NONE of it made for/as RV anti freeze is poison. Automotive anti freeze is, but that is NOT what we (or anyone else) uses for winterizing. In fact the last time I bought some, it was from walmart. I actually don't use it anymore, but still have some out in the garage for the "P" traps and black water tank. ------------- |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 3:57pm
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OH.. and here is an MSDS for the Camco.. same as the one I linked earlier. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/MSDS/Camco/CAC_30767,30768_MSDS.pdf and.. http://www.sfm.state.or.us/cr2k_subdb/MSDS/ARCTIC_BAN.PDF ------------- |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 3:59pm
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I actually have a glass every night at bedtime!!!!!!!kidding. Furpod, are you just blowing lines out or doing something different. just curious. hogone ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 4:04pm
|
Here's what I was talking about, referring to the 'walmart' RV antifreeze: http://www.heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/34372-Warning-toxic-antifreeze/page2 - http://www.heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/34372-Warning-toxic-antifreeze/page2 ------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 4:19pm
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I think that A) there is some confusion on/in that linked discussion. B) EVERYTHING is toxic if you ingest enough of it. You can DIE from water poisoning if you try hard enough. C) Somewhere, somebody, thinks everything can kill you. In California they put prop 65 warnings on Orange Juice. D) http://www.dhmo.org/facts.html - ANYTHING can be made to sound scary if you try.. Here is an http://www.dhmo.org/msds/MSDS-DHMO-2007-ChemSafe.pdf - MSDS to some nasty stuff , see how dangerous it is.. can you figure out how you are in contact with it EVERYDAY?? E) RELAX.. you are not, by far, the first person to winterize an RV with pink stuff, as far as I know, no one has died from winterizing yet. Come spring you rinse it all out and sanitize the system anyways. ------------- |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 4:20pm
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Yes, furpod you are so right..... :)
LOL..... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dihydrogen_monoxide_hoax - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dihydrogen_monoxide_hoax ------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 4:29pm
I do in fact blow my lines. I have a large compressor, set it at 30 psi, and let it blow all the lines out for about 20 minutes. Ok.. last year I forgot about it and it went an hour.. lol. before blowing, I run the pump dry, and drain as much as I can with the low point drains. I also drain the WH at the anode, then replace it for the air part, then take it back out for the winter. I put pink stuff in the traps and the black water tank, just enough to protect the dump valves. ------------- |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 4:33pm
Our "plan" is to winterize with pink stuff in a couple weeks...then take a 'southern' trip in early January, 'de-winterizing' somewhere along the way at a KOA, e.g. when the weather warms up...then after a nice little stay down south, return northward, and winterize once again before we get too far into the colder climate. Is this the 'general' idea when making a cold-weather trip southward? Suggestions, warnings, etc are most welcome!
 One of the big questions I do have is "how much water needs to run through the city water input to get rid of all the pink? Obviously, when the 'pink is gone', it may not be r-e-a-l-l-y outa there...so I'm curious... ------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 4:44pm
|
Where are you starting from? If you are starting out in a couple weeks, you may not need to winterize now. I wouldn't if I didn't have to. If it's "doable" just put a small ceramic heater in the pod to keep the lines in there from freezing. Drain the FW holding tank, and run the pump dry. Dump gray and black. Should be fine. If it's below freezing when you pull out.. turn on the propane and heater. I have actually considered that if the holding tanks are all empty, and the water pump run dry, a heater keeping the pod warm will protect it all winter.. just like your home. I have not tested this theory.. but it should work.. lol ------------- |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 4:47pm
|
Starting from northern Arkansas, would head to Florida. Remember, I'm the one who didn't wanna run the propane fridge while driving, LOL . . . .
Running a heater all winter would really jack up our electric bill  ------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 5:31pm
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We left one in the pod last winter, set around 45 degrees, didn't notice a hit at all on the bill. it's a 1000 watts, running a couple hours a day max, here, that is literally 20 cents a day. We had winterized.. Don't know how northern AR you are, but when we lived in FT Smith, while we didn't have a TT then, I wouldn't be worried about winterizing before late November. Might be a little worried if you are in the Ozarks. But not a lot. Oh, and you will get over most of these worries with experience.. don't sweat it. ------------- |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2013 at 5:34pm
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We're near Jonesboro....right where the Ozarks end and the rice fields begin. Yeah, I know, experience is the best teacher---already given me confidence in tank dumping, LOL ------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2013 at 6:58am
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ya, this is my dilemma. reside in st louis and heading to florida in mid november. really do not want to do the full blown winterizing either before i leave. how long does one run the pump dry? i think i will go with draining everything, run pump, and use a heater until then. any thoughts? hogone ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: Sleepless
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2013 at 8:51am
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Many years ago we took our TT to Florida from NW Indiana for a 2 week vacation. No problems going down but coming back the weather suddenly turned cold. We camped near Champaign IL and I had the water hose connected. Next morning, the hose was frozen solid and our dump valves were also frozen. I spent over an hour with my wife's hair dryer, thawing the drain valves and the water hose connection. If there is any question about weather conditions, I would winterize, at least on your return trip. Bob ------------- 2014 R-Pod 178 (OUR POD) 2009 Chevrolet Avalanche |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2013 at 9:38am
|
Good advice Bob. I will definately winterize before I pull out of Florida. ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2013 at 6:42am
|
furpod, you mentioned running the pump dry. approximately how long can you safely run the pump in doing this? like 30 seconds? hogone ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2013 at 8:39am
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Just untill it blows air.. It won't hurt it to run longer, but you just want to clear the line from the holding tank, and the pump head. If you are going to use pink stuff through the pump, then you don't have to worry about the pump head.
------------- |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2013 at 2:42pm
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From what I've read, the pump can be run dry indefinitely. Not that I would want to. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
|
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2013 at 8:19pm
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rog ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: wingnut2312
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2013 at 12:59pm
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Ok, I know this sounds like a lot, but has anyone made a youtube video for the winterization process? I'm sure its overkill, but some of these steps could cause some problems if done incorrectly. I just want to use the anti-freeze. I dont have a blower, so I'm stuck unless I take it somewhere. I would be happy to do it if I could see it done first! ------------- 2014 rpod 182G Ford Expedition |
Posted By: Sleepless
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2013 at 1:16pm
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Do a Google search for "How to winterize a RV water system" and you will find a page or two of You Tube videos on the subject. I did not watch any of them, so you may have to watch a few until you find the one most appropriate. Once you go through the process, it is a quick and easy process. ------------- 2014 R-Pod 178 (OUR POD) 2009 Chevrolet Avalanche |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 5:29pm
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HELP!!! Antifreeze is blowing out the city water connection...none is going into the trailer's plumbing. I've already gone through a gallon and a half of pink stuff....... HELP! ------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 5:39pm
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Turn off the pump. Go to the city water inlet, pull the screen out carefully, jiggle the little buttony thing until it reseats. continue. ------------- |
Posted By: kymooses
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 5:58pm
That'll do it! ------------- https://calendar.google.com/calendar?cid=cnBvZC5zcG90dGVyQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ - RPod Rallies https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1W1foQXGtrjf8aYly1uh0b-bHPfI&hl=en_US - RPod Owner Map |
Posted By: TrinityTurret
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 6:16pm
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Thanky all....yup, that's what it was. I had put the screen back in BACKWARDS after pushing-the-button to drain the water out prior to the pink stuff. Now we gotta drive 30 miles to get more anti freeze, hahahahha!!!! ------------- There's only one way... |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 7:46pm
No worries, its all a learning experience. Next year you'll use less than a gallon and do it in 15 minutes. 
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
|
Posted By: kymooses
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 7:53pm
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My first year I left my low point drains unscrewed, I used all the antifreeze I had to winterize my driveway really nicely! ------------- https://calendar.google.com/calendar?cid=cnBvZC5zcG90dGVyQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ - RPod Rallies https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1W1foQXGtrjf8aYly1uh0b-bHPfI&hl=en_US - RPod Owner Map |
Posted By: ontheroadagain2
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2013 at 3:38am
|
excellent thought on the pin on the city water inlet. I've never done that on all the travel trailers I've owned for the past 35 years. I'll start with the R-pod this fall. The real worry is the fiver I just winterized 200 miles farther north in Door County, WI. Is it that serious an issue that I have to drive back up there and attend to it? The real reason I'm checking back in is this. I just winterized (except for this pin deal) the pod and after draining all the leftover water out of the fresh water tank and while on my knee pads noticed the tremendous bulge of this tank. A bulge downward. Probably from having water in it and it takes on a "set" to the knew shape. The bulge hung/projected downward at least a good inch and a half below the drain point in the near corner. This bulge obviously means/meant that there is going to still be more water that is below the drain point. I took a plastic bucket, slid it as close to the center of the tank and using a 2 x 6 raised the bulge up to the level of the drain outlet. I got probably an additional two plus gallons of water out of the tank. When I poured in two gallons of potable antifreeze it wasn't enough to even pump with. Rather than dump more in I re-setup the 2x6 arrangement and raised up on the tank again ( my smallest toolbox was able to hold the tank bottom to the level needed. Back inside I turned on the water pump again and was able to flush all the water valves with a good amount of pink. I think Forest River could put stiffening bar down the centerline of this tank. I wonder how many out there poured in the 4 to 5 gallons to fill above the bulge to where the pump pickup is hanging. This is a bit of extra income for the RV antifreeze industry for everybody that doesn't catch this bulge feature. ------------- '04 Americamp M 270RKS 5er @ seasonal site |
Posted By: SNO4ME
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2013 at 7:46am
I'm missing something here on the city water inlet????????? On the left over water in the freshwater tank: I thought I noticed the same so I lowered my jack on the tongue as much as I could and drained more water out of the fresh tank. Not sure how much, maybe a gallon or three. I wasn't REAL worried because of the shape of the tank I didn't think it would have cause that big of a problem. ------------- Bruce & Donna in the Sno Pod (and Brewer too) 2011 RP 177 |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2013 at 8:24am
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In order for frozen water to damage a container.. say a holding tank, there has to be enough water in the tank that there is no room for the expanding water to fill.. a couple gallons in a 30 gallon tank is no worry. ontheroadagain2: The tanks come with a bit of a bulge at the bottom, was there water left over after you drained the tank with the FW drain on the bottom of the tank? Also, why were you pouring antifreeze into the FW tank? So far, we have found every pod has a winterization hose at the water pump, making it tons easier to pump in the antifreeze. There does appear to be at least 3 different types of hose/hook up combos. ------------- |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2013 at 8:34am
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i am assuming the bulge in the tank is normal, mine is the same way. i agree, the drain plug is definitely not attached to the lowest part of the tank, but i guess if a little water is left its not a big deal........others thoughts? also the standard procedure for winterizing is not pouring the anti freeze in the tank, but hooking up to the hose by the pump which is inside the pod. there is very good directions and even a video for doing so on the forum. ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2013 at 8:37am
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wow furpod, didn't realize you posted and answered my questions before i posted!!!!!!!!!!!!thanks ------------- Jon & Pam 2013 RP177 2010 F150 2017 HD Streetglide 2009 HD Lowrider CHEESEHEAD |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2013 at 10:14am
------------- |
Posted By: kymooses
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2013 at 6:22pm
 ------------- https://calendar.google.com/calendar?cid=cnBvZC5zcG90dGVyQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ - RPod Rallies https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1W1foQXGtrjf8aYly1uh0b-bHPfI&hl=en_US - RPod Owner Map |
Posted By: ontheroadagain2
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2013 at 2:02am
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Re: furpod, hogone, SNO4ME, kymooses, I've always used the FW tank method over the past 35 years with the eight or nine travel trailers I've owned and am grateful for the new "suck tube" method I saw on the video the other nite and pointed out to me by all of you guys. Thanks. The FW method uses only two gallons as does the suck-tube method pointed out on the video. It worked fine. I was mainly concerned with the anti-freeze being thinned down with the 2-3 gallons of water still left in the FW tank, not with it freezing and hurting the tank. Also, what was the answer from the four of you on the 'city water button not being pushed' on my fiver 200 miles to the north. I've never done that over the past thirty-five years on the other vehicles. Is it really gonna 'blow' or what? Do I have to race back up there and push that button or is that button knew in the recent year/s? ------------- '04 Americamp M 270RKS 5er @ seasonal site |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2013 at 7:38am
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Usually the stub off the main line running to the city water connection is short, so there is a good chance that some of the water will have been mixed with some antifreeze as you were winterizing. Also over time as it just sits there it will mix even more. I wouldn't worry about it. Worst case if you have damage it is easy to replace that stuff. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
|
Posted By: kymooses
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2013 at 10:05am
Adding to that. Often times before I even push the little nub I've seen a drop or so of pink water surrounding it. I don't think there would be much worry by not pushing it. It's just a step in the process. I'm pretty sure my first year I forgot to do it. ------------- https://calendar.google.com/calendar?cid=cnBvZC5zcG90dGVyQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ - RPod Rallies https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1W1foQXGtrjf8aYly1uh0b-bHPfI&hl=en_US - RPod Owner Map |