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How critical is "tow ball height"?

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Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3496
Printed Date: 16 May 2024 at 10:36pm
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Topic: How critical is "tow ball height"?
Posted By: coopercdrkey
Subject: How critical is "tow ball height"?
Date Posted: 17 May 2013 at 10:12am
I have decided to take Tech's advise and continue using the WDH on my new TV.

The "top-of-the-ball" height was 19" when installed on the Jeep.  The closest we could adjust the hitch
resulted in a "middle-of-the-ball" height of 19".  In other words, about an inch or so higher.  I don't
anticipate any heartburn from this small difference, but if I am wrong, I am more than willing to be
corrected.

Thanks!




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Bob and Joyce
Jennifer and Baxter, the Campin' Cocker Spaniels
RP 177 "Key Pod"
Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT / Z71



Replies:
Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 17 May 2013 at 10:43am
I am sure that someone will disagree with me but I towed my trailer about 2000 miles last summer and as yoiu can see in this picture my hitch is just a little high. I did not want to pay for a longer shank for my hitch. I did not notice any issues. 




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Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 17 May 2013 at 1:19pm
The quick answer is "no problem". The most critical item is the refrigerator, which should be level (trailer front-to-back) to within about 3 degrees. I don't have a 177 here, but the pictures look like the wheels are about 13 feet from the ball. If so, the ball can vary by about +/- 8 inches and still be OK if the camper is parked. If you're in motion it doesn't make any difference.

The only other consideration is that it is somewhat preferable to tow slightly nose down or with the ball slightly lower than level. This is to protect the rear leveler jacks which are vulnerable to hitting the ground on dips, speed bumps, and curbs.

Onwards and outwards to the camp grounds,


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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 17 May 2013 at 2:10pm

Nose-down or level is recommended primarily to prevent sway.  Nose-up induces sway.  My popup was a sway death trap and I had to keep it very nose-down to help.

That said, I have no choice with my Suburban.  I bought the longest shank they had for the E2 and I'm still slightly nose-up.  I do have the risers.   When it is time for new tires in the next year or two I'll look into tires with a larger outer circumference to try to gain a little more height.



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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: coopercdrkey
Date Posted: 17 May 2013 at 4:48pm
I have not actually hooked up to the new TV-  I will do so Sunday night in preparation for our little outing.
I have those level vials which were installed quite carefully, and I will have a much better idea of what's
going on after parking on a level surface.  Once in camp, we always disconnect and level anyway.

I did back in close enough to the 'Pod to connect the 7-pin.  Everything was perfect.


-------------
Bob and Joyce
Jennifer and Baxter, the Campin' Cocker Spaniels
RP 177 "Key Pod"
Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT / Z71


Posted By: TIDALWAVE
Date Posted: 17 May 2013 at 6:27pm
WinkThe refrigerator only needs to be horizontal when the Pod is at rest.  Towing rocks the evaporative system enough so that the frig runs without a problem.  (If you adjust the Pod to be horizontal while towing...the refrigerant is constantly being sloshed around anyway).  So the best advice is a slight downward tilt to the front to help with sway control.

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TIDALWAVE


Posted By: Kickstart
Date Posted: 17 May 2013 at 6:59pm
At some point nose up will really put you on the edge of sway. If your Pod, like my 175 has the fresh water tank behind the axle, then do not run with the tank with water in it, and pack lightly behind the axle. Any additional weight behind the axle will lighten your hitch weight, and the slosh from a partially full water tank will add to the propensity to sway. Do you want a marginal set up to put you close to the edge? I didn't follow the rules once, and it cost me--light hitch weight, partially full water tank behind the axle, and hungus wind gust. WDH, manual brake control and anti sway couldn't overcome my inattention to the rules. I thought that close was good enough. 
I don't want to be harsh, but I also don't want others lose their tow rig and trailer like I did (20' Layton and F150 with 7000 miles). Damn, that was a beautiful truck! Do what you want, but beware, and please don't tow in front of me nose high.     

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'10 RP 175-Replaced by 2014 Kodiak 173 QBSL
'12 Toyota Tundra
'05 Sportster (half a Harley)
Retired-We're on Beach Time!


Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 17 May 2013 at 10:35pm
Once you get the trailer hooked up you will probably find that it is nose down. I have more than an inch of sag in my tv even with the WDH on.

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Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition


Posted By: Craneman
Date Posted: 18 May 2013 at 10:25am
Kickstart,
  Help me get this straight, are you saying when towing down the highway , the water tank should be empty?? We haven't towed ours other than to bring it home.
                                          Moe


Posted By: Kickstart
Date Posted: 18 May 2013 at 12:29pm
No, not necessarily, but if your trailer is nose up some, and/or your tow rig is marginal, then this will really lighten up your hitch weight with the added weight behind the trailer axle. In my case, I had just traded trailers, was nose up, hadn't dialed in my WDH yet, and had a partially full water tank behind the trailer axle. The state  patrolman who handled the wreck was a trailer guy, quizzed me, and said it was a "Perfect Storm" type deal with several things factoring in--inadequate WDH set up, low hitch weight due to added weight behind the axle, water slosh in that tank, short wheelbase truck (even though a fullsized P/U), AND the wind gust was so instant and severe that control was immediately lost. I had my choice of a 200' drop on the left and a rock wall on the right.  I wheeled it over and chose the wall. No injuries.  So a Prodigy, WDH, and sway control weren't enough to overcome Mother Nature and my ineptitude .
 
You're from Washington State, so you may be familiar with the winds in the Columbia River Gorge.
  

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'10 RP 175-Replaced by 2014 Kodiak 173 QBSL
'12 Toyota Tundra
'05 Sportster (half a Harley)
Retired-We're on Beach Time!


Posted By: Craneman
Date Posted: 20 May 2013 at 7:28pm
Originally posted by Kickstart

No, not necessarily, but if your trailer is nose up some, and/or your tow rig is marginal, then this will really lighten up your hitch weight with the added weight behind the trailer axle. In my case, I had just traded trailers, was nose up, hadn't dialed in my WDH yet, and had a partially full water tank behind the trailer axle. The state  patrolman who handled the wreck was a trailer guy, quizzed me, and said it was a "Perfect Storm" type deal with several things factoring in--inadequate WDH set up, low hitch weight due to added weight behind the axle, water slosh in that tank, short wheelbase truck (even though a fullsized P/U), AND the wind gust was so instant and severe that control was immediately lost. I had my choice of a 200' drop on the left and a rock wall on the right.  I wheeled it over and chose the wall. No injuries.  So a Prodigy, WDH, and sway control weren't enough to overcome Mother Nature and my ineptitude .
 
You're from Washington State, so you may be familiar with the winds in the Columbia River Gorge.
  
I filled the  water tank today and took the pod for a test run, and I'm getting a little sway. I have the nose down and it drops the truck just at 2" . Guess for traveling I'll just put 5 or 10 gal in it?
        Moe


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 20 May 2013 at 9:44pm
Take a look at this, see if there is anything you are overlooking:   http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723&PID=29812&title=creating-an-instruction-maintanence-manual#29812 - http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723&PID=29812&title=creating-an-instruction-maintanence-manual#29812

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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: Craneman
Date Posted: 20 May 2013 at 11:17pm
Techntrek,
 I Think I have most of those covered, where can the riser blocks be purchased?????
        Moe


Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 20 May 2013 at 11:29pm
Different models have there water tanks in different positions on the trailer, the 171 has it's water tank in front of the axle lending some stability to the trailer when you carry any amount of water. The black and gray tanks are behind the axle which I keep empty, dumping the gray every day that we travel as it is the tank at the very back. Those models with the water tanks behind the axle can have more stability issues with the more water carried like what Kickstart described. Goose

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Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 21 May 2013 at 9:50am
Craneman, look for the contact numbers in a thread at the top of the podmod sub-forum.  You can call FR directly to order them but have your VIN number handy since they'll need that to verify which axle you have.

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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 21 May 2013 at 9:52am
Sorry, that was at the top of Reviews and General Information.  Here is a link:  http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=2747&title=misc-forest-river-contacts-and-other-info - http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=2747&title=misc-forest-river-contacts-and-other-info

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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: Kickstart
Date Posted: 21 May 2013 at 10:50pm
 
 
  [/QUOTE]
I filled the  water tank today and took the pod for a test run, and I'm getting a little sway. I have the nose down and it drops the truck just at 2" . Guess for traveling I'll just put 5 or 10 gal in it?
        Moe
 
Way to be proactive rather than having to be reactive like me! If you're getting even a twitch with your rear tank full, then you need  to address some setup issues. Even a twitch means that you're near real problems if you have to deal with bad gusts or semi-suck. Having risers installed will also help save your leveling jacks if you try to camp in any of the uneven sites in the Forest Service or National Park campgrounds here on the Oly Peninsula. That's another ask me how I know that I don't wanna discuss!


-------------
'10 RP 175-Replaced by 2014 Kodiak 173 QBSL
'12 Toyota Tundra
'05 Sportster (half a Harley)
Retired-We're on Beach Time!


Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 21 May 2013 at 11:05pm
Keeping weight on the tongue is key. If you are carrying weight behind the axle you have to balance it with weight in front of the axle. That's why I put a cargo carrier on the tongue not on the back.

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Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition


Posted By: P&M
Date Posted: 22 May 2013 at 9:52am
Originally posted by Seanl

Keeping weight on the tongue is key. I you are carrying weight behind the axle you have to balance it with weight in front of the axle. That's why I put a cargo carrier on the tongue not on the back.
I had read somewhere recently that the "recommended" guideline for weight distribution in a trailer is 60% in front and 40% in back ... does this sound right to those of you more experienced?

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P & M ... and Comet too!
2012 171 -- The Monkey Pod
2018 Ram 2500


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 22 May 2013 at 6:59pm
What really matters is putting 10-15% of the trailer's total weight on the tongue.  I believe that rule is a little lower for boat trailers.

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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: coopercdrkey
Date Posted: 24 May 2013 at 10:48am
Well, since I started this thread, I guess I should report back.

After adjusting the WDH to its lowest possible setting, the leveling
vial indicates a nose-up of a tad less than 2 degrees. The 'Pod towed
perfectly behind the new truck, but we were on back roads and never got
above 55 mph. None of out outings to date have required interstate or
other high speed situations, but I intend to hitch up and do a test run
down I-75 just so I will know what to expect.

Anti sway is still an available option since my present hitch is
strictly weight distribution.



-------------
Bob and Joyce
Jennifer and Baxter, the Campin' Cocker Spaniels
RP 177 "Key Pod"
Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT / Z71


Posted By: Thinker
Date Posted: 24 May 2013 at 2:16pm
I think am slightly nose up, but the high lift kit on the pod makes this a very pleasant tow.

I do not have WDH or sway control (yet??).

YES you need to empty all tanks. I do carry about 5 gal of fresh water in case I need a flush or two, but any more than that I can feel the slosh effect.


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Tow Vehicle: 2013 Pathfinder 4WD R-POD Model 171



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