Jacking up my RPod for inspection
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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3469
Printed Date: 06 May 2024 at 8:06pm
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Topic: Jacking up my RPod for inspection
Posted By: Bill-GA
Subject: Jacking up my RPod for inspection
Date Posted: 09 May 2013 at 8:37pm
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The rain in Georgia is finally slowing down. I'm planning to check my wheels (brakes & grease). BUT, I've always used my hydraulic auto jack (3 ton) under axle under about where the risers were installed. I remember seeing something in the bearing discussion / materials that said use a block of wood under the framing beam to lift. That doesn't seem like the right place. Is there an official recommendation as to where to lift?
------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Replies:
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 09 May 2013 at 10:18pm
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"Officially" The axle manufacturer says not to lift on the axle, and the trailer manufacturer says not to lift on the frame..
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Posted By: Bill-GA
Date Posted: 09 May 2013 at 11:22pm
After furpods response I went lookin. I found this in rpodnation.com under "jacks" topic :  Only jack the Pod on the vertical axle flanges welded adjacent to the hubs. The round axle tube is not designed to have a jack apply a lift to it. A flat jack head would touch the round axle on only a small area. All of the weight of that side of the Pod would be concentrated on that very small area of axle. The axle flanges are welded up the side of the round axle tube spreading the weight around the axle tube.This is what I intuitively have been doing. Since my jack has a 4-5" cup (std on most auto jacks?) it fits nicely under the flanges. When camping, I've stowed a small scissor jack with crank handle that has a flat 3x5(?) head for changing a flat tire. I'm not sure that would span the flanges - I'll check when I do service. I assume of course, that using stabilizers to lift tire is a no-no? I also have GoodSam Roadside Assist which is probably the easiest but longest solution. I wonder how they would jack it up. Good to know about flanges to ensure they don't screw things up. ------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 10 May 2013 at 1:21pm
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You are correct, never use the stabilizers to lift the pod (or any camper, except large RVs with self-leveling systems). In a life-or-death situation I would risk it.
The answer I've always given here, partly seriously, is "levitation". Some here have used thick boards to spread the load across the frame members evenly. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 10 May 2013 at 7:26pm
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I'm surprised that the frame manufacturer even allows axle hangers to be welded on the frame! But, yes, jack by the frame. Preferably within a couple feet of the axle. Be careful of the propane line and any wires which run along the frame. Always use chocks on the opposite tire and make sure jackstands are in place (and bearing the trailer load) before you start working on the trailer. Also, lock the trailer door and don't let anyone in the trailer while its in the air. Someone walking around in the trailer while its on jackstands very well may bend the frame. ------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: Bill-GA
Date Posted: 14 May 2013 at 7:52pm
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I've been contemplating the responses above (I examined my RPod too) and I can only conclude that the axle design is so fragile that it can be damaged if used to raise the RPod. The only reason it can be attached to the RPod is because of the two flanges on each side which are welded to the axle and prevents the axle from being distorted. Note that the flanges are ONLY on top so jacking underneath could distort the axle shape. So as an alternative, I should jack up the RPod using the frame, which is also fragile and this should be done with wood blocks to distribute the load. Needless to say, if I use my emergency road service I just know there're going to jack it up under the flanges (hopefully) and will think I'm crazy if I say jack up the trailer using the frame. Did I get this right? ------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 14 May 2013 at 8:37pm
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Sounds right.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 15 May 2013 at 4:34am
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My little bit of research on jacking the RPod pretty much backs up Doug's observation that you are supposed to levitate the trailer to change a flat. Either that or take it to the dealer. It seems unacceptable that the subject is omitted from the owner's manual (if I recall correctly) and that Forest River seems to avoid the subject at all costs. They sell a product with two wheels and inflated rubber tires, with a spare tire as standard equipment. I can understand not providing a jack, since if you are going anywhere with the pod you are required to have a tow vehicle that almost certainly carries a jack. Maybe not the right kind of jack, but a jack in any case. I think it's irresponsible and unacceptable for Forest River to not specify how to lift the pod to change a tire or pack the bearings. We shouldn't have to speculate about this or risk damaging the axle or frame. Clear instructions need to be readily accessible and if they have to modify the frame or the axle to provide lift points, they need to do so and they should label the lift points just as they do the low point drains. My little rant aside, how do they lift Pods at the dealership or factory when people buy new tires? Even if no one has ever had a flat on the road, surely someone has bought new tires for an RPod by now, or Forest River at least has contingency plans for when someone does. It makes me think that I must have missed the official instructions somewhere. TT |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 15 May 2013 at 8:32am
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Truthfully, I lifted mine in the driveway with the stabilizers. I stayed hooked to the truck, I chocked the opposite side, I put 4 legos under the stabilizers on the side I was lifting.. worked fine. The stabilizers are, after all, just scissor jacks. With a 5000lb rating each. You are lifting from 2 places, not just one. If I was going to go UNDER the trailer I would have used jack stands. I am in no way telling anyone to do it, just like the lawyers for FR and Dexter don't. YMMV, blah blah blah ------------- |
Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 15 May 2013 at 1:58pm
I think the issue with lifting with the stabilizers is not that the jacks are not rated for the weight but that the frame of the trailer is not designed to bear the weight at the corners. The front would be fine as that is a load point already with the tongue but the back normally only carries the weight of the trailer and that is in the opposite direction to jacking. I think you would want to be careful not to put any extra load on the frame of the trailer while you had it jacked up but since you did it and did not have any issues with bending the frame it is probably okay. I always jack at the frame where the axle bolts to it and when I get it up I support it with two jack stands on the frame one in front of the axle and one behind. ------------- Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition 
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Posted By: Bill-GA
Date Posted: 16 May 2013 at 8:25am
I totally agree with TT's comments. I'll bet FR uses a 4 point shop hydraulic lift. But the question is "What do the rest of us do? What does my road service guy do on an inter-state highway?" I'm thinking of getting an 8" PT 4x4 then cutting a 45 degree slot into one side. Since the axle I have is a rounded square design, I figure if I use this between my jack and the axle under the welded flanges, it will distribute the lifting weight across the bottom of the axle. After all doesn't this axle point take the stress between the wheel and trailer when "bouncing down the road?". I am NOT going to jack the frame up ..... Totally absurd, risky in bending the frame and too much extra labor. I will use jacks stands on the frame for safety once its up.
------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 16 May 2013 at 3:50pm
| After reading all this, I'm not so sure I know where to jack my pod up if I do have a flat or for maintenace related issues!!! It sounds like a 2X4/4X4 should go between the jack and the frame(close to the wheel) to spread out/distribute the weight of the point of attack. |
Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 16 May 2013 at 5:09pm
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I have jacked my Rpod up by placing the jack on the frame next to the flange where it bolts to the axle. I would not put the jack on the axle. The frame carries the weight of the trailer there already. ------------- Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition
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Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 16 May 2013 at 9:25pm
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One person says, "I am NOT going to jack the frame up," and practically the next one says,
"I would not put the jack on the axle". With all respect, taking advice from people on the internet is often not all that smart, especially one person says one thing and the other says the opposite. I say again, it is unacceptable that Forest River doesn't provide clear, concise, and reliable instructions on where to lift the trailer to change a tire. TT |
Posted By: Craneman
Date Posted: 18 May 2013 at 10:51am
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Very interesting reading, but I am still confused. Where to jack and with what type of jack. Has anyone been able to contact forest riverand get the straight scoop?? I can't find any contact number or email address. I'm going to repack wheel bearings . Seems that a couple of pictures of jack placement would Clear things a little!!! Moe |
Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 18 May 2013 at 5:06pm
Came on Podders lets have a little common sense here, if I can't jack up my pod at this point under my axel, because I may do damage to it, I better dont take it on the road, because a few bumps and potholes in the road put more stress onthe axel then an easy smooth lift by a jack IMHO. ------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 18 May 2013 at 5:20pm
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The argument is jacking under the axle like that will damage it. The forces of bumps and potholes is different.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 18 May 2013 at 5:26pm
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I lost a wheel at 100km an hour, there for I should have a kink in my axel, but I don't. Also AAA lifted the pod in the same spot. ------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 18 May 2013 at 7:46pm
| I just have my wife lift the pod up for me for any repairs |
Posted By: francoisfrogpod
Date Posted: 18 May 2013 at 8:13pm
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Hogone, Thanks for your well-timed humor! What part of St. Louis are you from? I live about 50 miles south of St. Louis in DeSoto. You weren't in Union yesterday afternoon about 5:30, were you? I spotted a Pod at the intersection of Hwys. 50 and 47.
------------- Denny and Linda 2013 Pod 177 '08 Santa Fe |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 18 May 2013 at 8:23pm
| high ridge, and she can do it with just one arm!! |
Posted By: Bill-GA
Date Posted: 18 May 2013 at 9:09pm
Interesting. My axle (2010) is welded to the flanges diagonally. It has a rounded square design like yours, but if I put a jack underneath it would only contact the rounded bottom corner. This is why I'm thinking of getting a 4x4 and making two 45 degree cuts on a flat side of the 4x4 to provide a 'V' bed for an extended contact on the axle between jack and axle. Also, my flanges extend 2-3" towards the front and are welded on two complete sides .... I'll get some pictures when the sun comes out in GA. Wouldn't a wooden block between your jack and axle distribute the weight across a larger area? ------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Posted By: kymooses
Date Posted: 18 May 2013 at 9:36pm
Mine has the levitate feature.  ------------- https://calendar.google.com/calendar?cid=cnBvZC5zcG90dGVyQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ - RPod Rallies https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1W1foQXGtrjf8aYly1uh0b-bHPfI&hl=en_US - RPod Owner Map |
Posted By: Craneman
Date Posted: 19 May 2013 at 11:36am
Ok, nice pic thanks. Moe
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Posted By: francoisfrogpod
Date Posted: 19 May 2013 at 12:40pm
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Hogone, that is some kind of woman, you'd better hang on to her! Travis, did you have to pay more for the levitation option? :) ------------- Denny and Linda 2013 Pod 177 '08 Santa Fe |
Posted By: Bill-GA
Date Posted: 19 May 2013 at 4:27pm
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Levitation ,,, Schmevitation! Heres my diagonal axle with flanges. Im wondering how many "styles of axles" are out there? I'm still thinking about grooving a 4x4 with a 'V' notch to span axle and contact flanges.  ------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Posted By: rex
Date Posted: 19 May 2013 at 6:17pm
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Don't forget to check fresh water tank and vent tube,if tube is plugged up your tank could pop up of channel its rests on,as mine did months ago I added straps to hold tank in just a thought happy camping
------------- jrr |
Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 19 May 2013 at 9:27pm
There are two different brands used that I know of. You could probably put a 2x4 block across the flanges on one side of the axle and jack there. ------------- Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition
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Posted By: Bill-GA
Date Posted: 26 May 2013 at 8:17pm
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In response to the levitation supporters .... I finally made a block that bridges the axle and rests on the flange tabs on both sides ( from scrap 2x4's - 9", 6", 6") .... is this OK? or is levitation still the preferred model.  See how it supports both flanges on my DIAGONAL axle. Does NOT touch axle.  side view .... works great! I may replace the cross-over 2x4 with a 2x6.  ------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 26 May 2013 at 9:33pm
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That will work ------------- Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition
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Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 26 May 2013 at 10:50pm
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Levitation is still preferred, but that comes in a close 2nd place.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: Webstas
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2015 at 2:47pm
| Has anyone actually bent their frame? |
Posted By: cosmo751
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2015 at 8:14am
The v-block solution is a good one. I'm making popcorn right now, waiting for FR and the axle manufacturer to weigh-in on why we are all going to ruin our pods (and void the warranty) for doing this... 
------------- "He not busy being born is busy dying." |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2015 at 12:41pm
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Not sure what the v-block solution is. Didn't turn up anything on Google. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: cosmo751
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2015 at 6:53pm
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It's the wood block thingy a page up from this one - The blocks form sort of a "V" that bridges the bottom of the vertical flanges welded to the axle. Cheers, K ------------- "He not busy being born is busy dying." |