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Water heater anode leak on spring awakening

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Forum Name: I need HELP!!!
Forum Discription: Perplexed/need help with a problem - ask here
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=16240
Printed Date: 18 Jul 2025 at 5:34pm
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Topic: Water heater anode leak on spring awakening
Posted By: poohbill
Subject: Water heater anode leak on spring awakening
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2025 at 1:01pm
Hello. My name is Bill and I own Gastropod. It is awakening as we speak, with its usual complaints of old age, winter neglect, bladder leaks, and You Don’t Take Me Anywhere. Even though batteries were on a conditioner all winter the trailer telltale indicates they aren’t holding a charge. City water flows fine and as usual the pump is bleeding air somewhere. I have a certain dread of working on that pump; actually, I have a dread of accessing the pump - working is easy.

I am in need of your advice regarding the water heater anode installation. I don’t tape the anode threading and I cleaned all threads thoroughly with a brash brush, then applied silicone lube. There is a three-second drip leak after my normal torquing yet I am leery of torquing it further.

Is teflon tape called for?

Thank you.

Bill


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2016 179 Gastropod
2017 Ridgeline



Replies:
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2025 at 2:01pm
I always used Teflon tape. It did not seem to affect the operation of the anode rod as it still was showing evidence being eaten away, which would indicate that it was protecting the tank.

As for the pump, the one in our Grey Wolf loses its prime as we are going down the road. This is wasteful as then the pump has to prime again, which means precious water is lost down the drain waiting for proper pressure to build again.


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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2025 at 2:50pm
Same here, teflon tape all the time.  By the time you screw it in, the threads will still make contact with the tank, thus allowing the anode to function properly.

Pump, 2 main locations to look at: 1) the 2 way valve in front of the pigtail used for winterizing - make certain it is closed all the way.  2) check your screen and glass thimble that screws into the pump - maybe a hairline crack?

Batteries:  Northern Michigan here and once they are given a 2 amp trickle charge for 24 hours at the end of October they are set directly on a concrete floor in an unheated garage and left there until re-installed early May the following year.  Did you check water/electrolyte levels last fall or regularly check them throughout the winter so that no dry cells were observed.  The two batteries i have, have been real troopers and get used a lot since we normally boondock and do not utilize either solar or generator. Batteries: 14 yr. old Interstate deep cycle and 5 yr. old Trojan T-1275.


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God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: poohbill
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2025 at 3:53pm
Thanks. Good to know. Like most drip-drip-drip leaks I’ll lat this one sit for a day before any action. As to the pump, I’ll give it more time to self-prime tomorrow before cracking the shell. As to the batteries, we discussed two years back the bulge that had appeared on both sides of each. Last fall, I topped off the fluids and tested the electrolyte before hanging them off the trickler for the winter. Last week, they needed two cups of water each, so even after a day in the trailer charging off shore power, I’ll give them more time and a bulb test before doing anything.

And there lies my most successful tactic in maintenance and repair. Ermm


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2016 179 Gastropod
2017 Ridgeline



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