Low Point Drain Under High Pressure
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Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=16170
Printed Date: 20 Jun 2025 at 4:21pm
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Topic: Low Point Drain Under High Pressure
Posted By: TeamRPod
Subject: Low Point Drain Under High Pressure
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2025 at 8:08pm
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EDIT I found a leak at the low point drain fitting just above the cap. Metal clamp is non adjustabe. I have a problem with my 2011 RP-175. I filled my fresh water tank that was recently replaced and have a problem - one of the 2 low points drain is under VERY HIGH pressure when the system is pressurized. So much so, that its leaking badly when under any pressure. The pump takes a long time to pressurize but water does comes out the faucet and toilet. But is a constant stream at the low point even with a new washer. Right after the tank was swapped I winterized using an air compressor
and when I removed the inner of the 2 low point drains, the cap flew off
as I unscrewed it. This never happened in previous years. I had my air compressor set at 30 lbs or so. To be
honest I forgot about it until today when I gave my new tank a test run. There is a fair chance my air compressor cranked too high damaged my water pump. Maybe a bad check valve. If anyone has any insight to share I would appreciate it. I found this discussion and diagram to start. https://www.forestriverforums.com/threads/when-i-turned-on-the-water-pump-the-low-point-drainage-drains-really-fast-anyone-kno.356642/  |
Replies:
Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2025 at 9:14am
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Which low point drain is under pressure, hot or cold? Isolating which side will simplify what route to take in finding the culprit. Doubt the compressor compromised your water pump. I also have a 2011 (177) which has been owned since Mach 2011. Except for the first year of winterizing with antifreeze I have always used compressed air at 85 psi to blow out with no ill effects (northern Michigan). At this point it sounds like the water pump may have an issue not related to your blowing out with compressed air. You state that the pump takes a long time to pressurize, that is not normal, so possibly the pump is worn out; at least they are quite cheap to replace. The longest my pump takes to pressurize is first thing in spring when introducing water in the lines, could take up to 30 seconds before turning off, otherwise it runs for 5 seconds or so, unless a line is left open, until it turns off. ------------- God's pod '11 model 177 '17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake "...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free." |
Posted By: gpokluda
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2025 at 9:49am
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I also doubt compressed air caused any damage. That's how I winterize as well. When you open a faucet, does the water pressure seem excessive? Could be your pressure switch on your pump is allowing the lines to over pressurize. Also, make sure all of the air is out of your lines. ------------- Gpokluda 2017 Rpod 179(sold 2023) 2022 Escape 5.0TA 2022 Ford F150 4X4 3.5EB Kawasaki KLR650 |
Posted By: TeamRPod
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2025 at 9:54am
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Thanks for chiming in. Pressure at the faucet seems normal. Initial target to repair was my pump... pressure switch is a candidate! Thanks. I believe my Shurflo 2088 has an adjustment screw but water pressure seems normal at the sink... I wonder if I lower it my leak will go away. I JUST found a leak on my cold side LP drain right at the clamp. Presume from over pressurizing with the system closed using my air compressor trying to blast out the last bit of water. Everything closed at ~30psi then opening one faucet/toilet at a time. Ill keep them open next year... It is a crimped clamp and may try to put a screw type clamp on top. At least I have enough room to cut and replace it proper with a threaded cap pipe fitting if needed. Picture uploaded not displaying...
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Posted By: TeamRPod
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2025 at 2:50pm
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Quick update. My plumber won't touch it so I got someone a friend recommended saying he can fix it this weekend. The drain pipe appears to be 9/16 diameter. I am itching to pop off that crimp clamp but am nervous I will crush my 15 year old pipe. I put a screw clamp on top but it didnt help at all. I am not convinced my pump is running at the correct pressure. When the cap flew off it seemed far more than 30 lbs of pressure i had set on my compressor... I have a ShurFlo pump head on order. Thanks all.
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Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2025 at 10:30am
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The pressure at the low point is the same pressure throughout the system. The problem is the crimp, not the pressure. ------------- bp 2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River 2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost |
Posted By: TeamRPod
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2025 at 11:38am
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I understand that the faucet side pressure is uniform throughout, i was just theorizing that maybe the guy that installed my new fresh reinvented the wheel and made a mod or damaged my pump or ? I would SWEAR i had opened all the spigots before finalizing my winterizing routine which for me ends with the LPs - compressor disconnected - final step. I have done the same air compressor routine for 4 years. That LP drain cap shot out of my hand with SUCH force it was nothing short of remarkable - like a .22. Especially since I should have had a sizeable air leak right there at that time to dial that pressure back. I should have heard air hissing with my head less than 3 feet away seeing the amount of water shooting out yesterday. Maybe the leak started after my winterizing but highly unlikely. Just random or odd to have the crimp failure be AT the spot where the cap shot out of my hand, right? There are many PEX crimped in my system... like probably everyone here. With the leak fixed I could rely on the volume of water coming out of the faucet as a poor mans gauge to give me piece of mind. Too much water pressure is a potential nightmare scenario so am just wanting peace of mind. Hopefully the repair guy I hired has a gauge to measure the system pressure - it should be around 45PSI I believe. There is a chance I f**ked up and read the wrong gauge on my compressor but think I would have noticed the jet engine at my sink.
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