Now, a brake controller is not optional. You do need one. California requires trailer brakes on trailers over 1500 lbs from what I have seen with a quick look-up. Those brakes need to operate so if the VW does not come with an integrated brake controller, you will need to purchase and install one or have one installed for you. I like the Hopkins In-SIGHT controller, but they may be discontinued. I liked it because it had the main unit under the dash out of the way and had separate manual control and display that could be positioned so they made it easy to see and actuate. Is your Atlas equipped with a hitch receiver? Does it have a 7-way trailer connector? If it does not have either, you will need them installed. If it has the hitch but only a 4-way trailer connector, you will need to run wiring to connect a brake controller unless you go with one of the wireless units. I have not experience with the wireless ones so someone else would need to comment on that possibility. We recently changed to a Ford F-150 with integrated controller so my Hopkins unit is available for much less than this:   https://amazon.com/Hopkins-47297-INSIGHT-Simple-Control/dp/B00C5THYIK - https://amazon.com/Hopkins-47297-INSIGHT-Simple-Control/dp/B00C5THYIK

As for a WDH, there are multiple considerations. First is whether your Atlas is FWD or AWD. If it is FWD, you definitely need a WDH to transfer weight back to the front axle. Otherwise, you will have problems starting on slopes, wet roads, or dirt/gravel since the trailer will push down the back end and lift the front end. You would still have problems with steering even if it is AWD due to the weight shift. A WDH helps. What is just as important is to get one with sway control also. Trust me, you don't want to have to deal with sway so having the proper 10-15% of the trailer's weight as tongue weight is critical. Too much toward the back and it can make sway much more likely.

https://towstats.com/vw-atlas-towing-capacity/ - https://towstats.com/vw-atlas-towing-capacity/

I like this site's recommendation to check with your dealer to verify the tow capacity.

What do you think of the Blue Ox WDH? 

I agree with StephenH, you must get a brake controller.  Pretty much all over the country, trailers of that weight are required to have active braking.  Check out if your car has a plug for one or whether it needs to be hand wired.  That can affect the brand that will work most easily.

As for a WDH, given the size of the car you'll be using to tow the trailer, I couldn't imagine towing without one.  It offers you greater greater safety and a much more comfortable ride.  There are numerous discussions in the archives about WDH's that you should check out.  We use a Fastway e2 hitch on with our trailer.  I got it when I bought our 172 and was towing with a Dakota that had about the same towing capacity as your car.  It has been a reliable hitch, easy to use, and provides both good sway control and weight distribution.  In a quick look at Google, it appears to be a little less costly than the Blue Ox.  I am not personally familiar with the Blue Ox, so I can't comment on it.  Check out e-trailer.com and you'll find a large variety of WDH's, any of which could meet your needs.  Good luck with your new adventure.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/ - https://www.equalizerhitch.com/

The advantage is that it has more than just the contact points on the bars to help control sway. The down side is the hitch head is heavy. I think the Blue Ox is similar. If you need something lighter, the Andersen hitch is pretty popular.

The Fastway E2 is popular. It is similar to the Equal-i-zer.

https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/e2-hitch - https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/e2-hitch

Just for comparison, here is the link for the Blue Ox hitch.

https://www.blueox.com/weight-distributing-hitches/ - https://www.blueox.com/weight-distributing-hitches/

If I were going to purchase one today, I would likely go for the Andersen hitch. The main reason is the weight. The older I get the harder it is to wrangle that heavy hitch head and bars.

One other option that needs to be mentioned is electronic sway control. This is not the sway control in the TV, but one that will activate one or both of the trailer brakes to actively help counter sway. These include models from Tuson,

https://tusonrvbrakes.com/products/tuson-sway-control-tsc-1000 - https://tusonrvbrakes.com/products/tuson-sway-control-tsc-1000

Lippert,

http://www.rvupgradestore.com/Lippert-Sway-Command-Tow-Control-System-p/380605.htm - http://www.rvupgradestore.com/Lippert-Sway-Command-Tow-Control-System-p/380605.htm

And Hayes (but seems to have been discontinued, but still available),

http://highskyrvparts.com/rv-parts/rv-towing/sway-controls/hayes-brake-controller-electronic-trailer-sway-control-81775upg - http://highskyrvparts.com/rv-parts/rv-towing/sway-controls/hayes-brake-controller-electronic-trailer-sway-control-81775upg

The electronic sway controls can help in situations where the hitch sway control is unable to counter the outside forces. I think it would have helped when we encountered ice on one of our trips and ended up facing the wrong way on a bridge with a damaged TV and RPod. It happened too fast for me to think of using the manual brake control to activate the trailer brakes. The electronic ones do that much fast than you or I could so situations may not get out of hand.

As for the WDH, I would recommend one as it solves several problems with weight distribution (particularly to the front wheels). One thing that many seem to miss, a WDH will also solve the problem of having your headlights point up into the trees. We discovered this one night, when we only had a few miles to go, and I hooked up to our F150 without the WDH (to save a few minutes). To my horror, even though the towing control was fine, our headlights were pointing up in the trees. Sheesh.

So if you don't use a WDH, you most certainly will need something to correct the headlights in the form of rear suspension augmentation. The WDH method is safer.

Guess I am the odd man out here, have towed our 177 for 12+ years using the following for tow vehicles: 8 years with '08 and '13 Explorers (26,000 miles) and 4 years with '11 and '17 F-150 (17,000 miles) using a basic $ 40 Curt friction bar over all weather condition including: heavy snow and rain storms, sleet, hail, and strong 30+ mph cross winds with really no negative issues encountered.  Probably the best improvement made was on my 3rd set of tires purchased 2+ years ago going from china tires "C" load to Carlisle Radial HD "D" load tires which are much more stable and much less flex when running through adverse/strong cross winds going down the highways.

Possibly I would change my mind if I were to utilize a WDH but with all the conditions encountered thus far after 12 years and not having any problems that may be a hard sell.

Originally posted by StephenH Jim, a lot depends on the model RPod (or other trailer). The heavier 178/179/180/190, etc. would be a different scenario than the lighter ones The heavier trailers have a correspondingly heavier tongue weight. More tongue weight, more load on the back end. Thus, while you might not need or want a WD hitch, I would not tow without it.

That is quite understandable.  Our case is becoming more 'unique' as all the newer pods, except for the 171 fit into our scenario.  The empty weight of our 177 is a mere 2415 lbs. (no A/C, micro/convection oven or entertainment system), but fully loaded with 36 gallons water, 135 lbs/batteries and two 20# propane tanks on the a-frame and fully loaded to go for a 30 day excursion and the weight jumps to 2940 lbs. which is still probably much lighter than the bigger ones produced when they are loaded for a trip.  The 11% tongue weight (compliments of offgrid) means I need at least 323 lbs on the tongue to be safe, and we are, compliments of that battery weight - we have 340 lbs, good to go.

You will never tow that trailer at the empty weight because it will never be "empty". The best rule of thumb is to go by the gross weight of the trailer, and I'm betting that is going to be in the range of 3200 lbs (or maybe more). Further, if you "front load" your trailer (put too much stuff forward of the wheels), that will also have an outsized effect on the tongue weight.