+2  Looks like a major makeover.  It appears you used luan on the exterior.  What did you cover that with?  Did you use a thin layer of epoxy or fiberglass or what as it looks really good.  What did you use for primer and type of paint?  Thanks for posting!

I relied on well established specialty businesses for the paint and plywood (as opposed to the big box stores) and what they sold me was 1/8" Mahogany (not sure if this is luan?...) for the inside wall and 1/4" BCX Fir Ultra Core plywood for the outside. I had initially considered 3/8" but felt it wasn't bendable enough for the arc I needed....

The paint shop recommended Aqua Lock primer and a high quality exterior paint (Benjamin Moore) - both are latex products but recommended nonetheless. I anticipate (and don't really mind) if a fresh coat needs to be applied every year.

If that doesn't suffice, I'll look into an epoxy coat...I hope this doesn't become necessary as the one time I worked with fibreglass and epoxy was, I hoped, to be my last time.

Based on the fact that my pod is a 2012 and the best I figured I could get would be 5-7 years out of it (10 if I was *really* lucky), I decided  not  to get anything professional done to the bonded wood curve. So, no exterior fiberglass coating or anything. I simply finished the wood surface with top quality primer & paint and will just keep it painted - hopefully it lasts ok.

I'm happy with the plywood thicknesses I used (see prev entry) so I wouldn't chg those. Some other points I can think of:

- I did not reinstall the "head-banger box". Good riddance to that.

- I used a chisel to sever the rotted section of the 1 1/4" plywood arced strips from the good section. For my unit, it was about a foot down from the top of the open space in your pic.

- After unscrewing the severed & rotted plywood strips, I used them as a template to cut two arcs of 3/4" plywood which I already had. I then glued and screwed them together. This saved me from buying 1 1/4" plywood just to make two strips.

- I then cross cut the 1/8" plywood sheet to a length that allows it to overlap the aluminum side frames and then mounted my new 1 1/2" plywood arc strip to each side and screwed them into the aluminum side frames. The inside wall is now sandwiched between the plywood strips and the aluminum frame.

- I installed an extra cross member in the places where the wall seams would be.

- After making sure the wiring was run for the exterior spoiler and internal dome lights, I installed the insulation and screwed down the 3/8" exterior grade plywood wall to the plywood arc strips and cross members.

- I cut the plywood sheets so that the rear window would not be at a seam. Don't forget to keep the four black plastic corner pieces used to secure the corners of the rear window.

- I replaced as much of the floor as I could get at, prior to installing the curved walls.

That's all that comes to mind at the moment (for the curved walls). If anything else pops into my head, I'll post it. 

If you were within driving distance, I'd be of more use. But I will help you remotely as much as I can so don't hesitate to reach out again.

I have close to 200 pics so if you'd like any of them, lemme know and I'll email directly to you.

Let me know how it goes, dude

Best of luck!

Mike

The wife wants to use a thin aluminum sheet instead of the plywood on the outside and we will take or time to test different ideas. This should be much sturdier than the cheap materials rpod used and should help keep the weight down. In addition i will be using stainless screws and quality components such as marine grade wood and plywood for this- probably will outlast the rest of the unit but i'd rather overengineer it just because I can.