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Furnace help

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Forum Name: I need HELP!!!
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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=15125
Printed Date: 21 May 2024 at 6:55pm
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Topic: Furnace help
Posted By: Maddoxjprice
Subject: Furnace help
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2022 at 7:10pm
I just bought a 2012 177. I haven't had to use the furnace but it's going to get below 10 degrees on Thursday and I'm worried my space heater won't do the job anymore. I just tried it out and, as I can see, the air blows out from under the bed. But the metal plate that covers it is missing! Is that a big deal? Should I not use it unless I have that cover? Also, the a/c from up above doesn't turn off, why is that? Help, I'm new at this!

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Maddox Price



Replies:
Posted By: Winterpod
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2022 at 7:48pm
Make sure the thermostat is set on AU
Go to the fan setting then use + or - buttons
Should show hi,low,au on screen
Hope this helps


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Winter pod
2013 R-Pod 178
2007 Silverato 1500 LT.
Trek Stash 8 29er hard tail
Old Town Kayak


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2022 at 8:06pm
In addition to the above it is not a big deal that the metal cover plate is missing.  It will still run normal.  Just be careful to keep everything a good distance away - nothing under the bed - for safety sake.  There have been quite a few here who have constructed a diverter so that the heat exiting the furnace gets out to the main area better, also freeing up a good half of the space under the bed so you can utilize it for storage, even with the furnace running.  It is a nice modification.


-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2022 at 9:45pm
Nothing to add about the furnace but at 10 degrees you almost certainly need to drain and or winterize your plumbing.

TT


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2010 176
FJ Cruiser


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2022 at 6:23am
I would have thought that a 2012 would not have the integrated a/c and furnace thermostat like the later models do. My 2015 had a nice simple tstat dedicated to the furnace only. There is no reason firvhe roof a/c fan to be running when you're using the furnace.

As for the cover, you should replace it. It is designed to minimize the amount of hot outlet air that gets immediately pulled back throygh the inlet into the furnace. That's because the inlet about outlet ave right next to each other. If you don't have that the furnace will be inefficient at best and could overheat at worst.

OTOH a baffle redirecting the air out firm under the bed is not needed. If it was then it would have been put there at the factory. The gap between the floor and the bed is huge and allows for plenty of air convection into the room. Just don't fill it up under there with stuff and you will be fine.

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Maddoxjprice
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2022 at 7:27am
Thanks! Any idea on where to find one of those covers?

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Maddox Price


Posted By: JR
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2022 at 7:42am
I would start with the manufacture, I have a 2019 Rpod and the manufacture is Suburban model # NT-20SEQ but you will have to check your furnace to make sure of the manufacture and model number.  If it is in fact a Suburban their phone number is 423-775-2131 according my manual.  Hope this helps.

-------------
Jay

179/2019


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2022 at 10:00am
I had an early 80s camper which had the same furnace (except pilot ignition not direct spark) and it had the same cover. Suburban had been making that furnace forever. So you might try an RV shop in your area and see if they have an old one laying around.

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2022 at 10:30am
Originally posted by offgrid

OTOH a baffle redirecting the air out firm under the bed is not needed. If it was then it would have been put there at the factory. The gap between the floor and the bed is huge and allows for plenty of air convection into the room. Just don't fill it up under there with stuff and you will be fine.
Here is where I would disagree with you. I built a diverter (not a baffle) for our RPod 179. It makes a big difference by diverting the heated air so it is better distributed throughout the cabin. I used to use a fan to help for this, but it is no longer needed with the diverter. Given that my DC to DC charger would be directly in the path of the hot air from the furnace, having the diverter is useful to ensure that it does not get overheated. Plus, I can safely put things in the empty space that otherwise would not be usable. I'm not saying to fill it up. There still needs to be room for return air flow, but some of the space can be used, even for items that might be heat sensitive. It might not strictly be needed, but it is a very good modification to make that some might find very desirable for the better heat distribution.

Edit: Just because the factory did not include it does not mean that it isn't needed. There are lots of modifications I have made that the factory did not include because it made things easier or better (in my opinion). Forest River is not necessarily going to put some items on because they want to keep the cost low. It just means that we get to do the modifications if we want to improve things.


-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2022 at 12:43pm
Agree, I have seen the same Suburban furnace on a variety of different TT's so the cover plate should be readily available from Suburban.


-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: Maddoxjprice
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2022 at 6:53pm
Great news! I reached out to my friend who used to own it and she directed me to the strage compartment and I found it! She also told me she never used the furnace in the entire 6 years she had it. She just used a space heater. But when I turned it on it seems fine. A little noisy but I can see the flame and smells like any other heater that hasn't been turned on in a while. No gas smell. I just bought a new gas detector and carbone monoxide detector as well.

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Maddox Price


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2022 at 7:03pm
That is great news. Congratulations on your "new to you" RPod. I hope you have many fun adventures and make many great memories with your RPod.

-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 7:11am
Originally posted by StephenH



Originally posted by offgrid

OTOH a baffle redirecting the air out firm under the bed is not needed. If it was then it would have been put there at the factory. The gap between the floor and the bed is huge and allows for plenty of air convection into the room. Just don't fill it up under there with stuff and you will be fine.
Here is where I would disagree with you. I built a diverter (not a baffle) for our RPod 179. It makes a big difference by diverting the heated air so it is better distributed throughout the cabin. I used to use a fan to help for this, but it is no longer needed with the diverter. Given that my DC to DC charger would be directly in the path of the hot air from the furnace, having the diverter is useful to ensure that it does not get overheated. Plus, I can safely put things in the empty space that otherwise would not be usable. I'm not saying to fill it up. There still needs to be room for return air flow, but some of the space can be used, even for items that might be heat sensitive. It might not strictly be needed, but it is a very good modification to make that some might find very desirable for the better heat distribution.
Edit: Just because the factory did not include it does not mean that it isn't needed. There are lots of modifications I have made that the factory did not include because it made things easier or better (in my opinion). Forest River is not necessarily going to put some items on because they want to keep the cost low. It just means that we get to do the modifications if we want to improve things.


I was trying to minimize the OP's efforts to get their trailer furnace system working. In that context a custom furnace diverter is certainly not needed. The vast majority of owners, myself included, don't have one are are just fine without it.

The gap under the bed is plenty big enough for natural convection to work fine transferring heat into the room. The temp under there will be a little warmer than the room but that won't result is any noticeable reduction in heating efficiency, the warmth will still find it's way into the room no problem. I personally found the space under there being warmer to be beneficial, I'd place my wet boots and clothing under there and it would dry them more quickly. I never noticed any significant cold or hot spots in the room that would require active fan operation to levelize.

I suspect that perhaps what you are perceiving as improved efficiency from a diverter is just more rapid injection of heat into the room when the heater turns on. That could actually be a disadvantage by shortening the heating cycle, which is already too short to be efficient (large heater small room). I kept bottled water under there to provide some warm thermal mass to lengthen the furnace cycle.

That being said if you like having a diverter, or have some electronics under there that is heat sensitive feel free. Just be sure it's not reducing the effectiveness of the cover and causing short circuiting of hot outlet air back into the furnace inlet. Other than that, it causes no problems that I can see.

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 7:38am
Ultimately, I would like to eliminate the furnace and go with the hydronic system that has been written up. However, I have not gotten around to finding a heater core to use.

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=8698&PID=81475&title=well-i-did-it#81475 - http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=8698&PID=81475&title=well-i-did-it#81475


-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 8:20am
You might want to check out the Truma Combi system. Most of the higher end small RVs seem to be using that system now.

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 8:52am
Truma Combi looks interesting, but the down side is that it appears to be ducted. It also looks like it would not really be something that could be retrofit into the RPod by me as Truma disclaims all responsibility for any units sold that were not through their dealers and installed by them (interpreted as they want to keep the price high). It is probably best in a unit designed to take advantage of it.

-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: Maddoxjprice
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 9:06am
Another question for those of you still following this, should I be concerned about using a furnace that has not been run in over 6 years? Id there something I can do to make sure it's running correctly? To be honest, I've been worried about using it, since ya know, there's a flame happening under my bed. lol

-------------
Maddox Price


Posted By: JR
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 9:31am
With the furnace lighting and operating it should be good to go but make sure you have a blue flame (it's getting enough oxygen for proper combustion) and check the exhaust ports making sure that there are no mud dobber nests, spider webs. or any other type of obstructions.  That's the first thing I would be checking.  Hope this helps

-------------
Jay

179/2019


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 9:32am
Since you can remove both the furnace and the water heater I think there should be plenty of room for it plus some ducting to keep the inlet and outlet separated enough. Perhaps outlet under the table and inlet forward in the under bed space in the 179? You could use aircraft SCAT tubing for the outlet ducting, good for up to 500F temps.

As long term DIYers neither of us are likely put off by warranty disclaimers like that, pretty much anything we do is at our own risk anyway.   

There are multiple videos on DIY installs of the Truma system on YouTube.


-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 9:38am
It would seem to be a moot point for DIY. Truma does not even list the Combi on their online shop, only the Lamella (duct end caps). 

As for using a furnace that has not been run in a while, I agree with JR. If visual inspection does not reveal any obstructions in the intake/outlet tubes and if the flame burns blue (clean), then it is likely okay. If you really feel uncomfortable with it, take it to an RV service place and have it inspected. It would be worth the expense for your peace of mind.


-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: Maddoxjprice
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 9:50am
Well that's good to know because the flame was not blue. But I only had it on for like 2 minutes so maybe the line was just getting flushed out?

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Maddox Price


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 11:25am
The flame might have a bit of yellow, but it should be mostly blue. If there is a lot of yellow and little or no blue, then that is a sign that it is not getting enough air. Perhaps the best way to say it is that it should appear as mostly blue, possibly with yellow tips, much like the stove flames when it is working properly.

As for the 2 minutes, it doesn't take long to purge the line for the furnace because it takes so much propane. If at the end of the 2 minutes, it was still mostly yellow, then It is possible that the pipes are partially blocked. Please do get it checked out for safety and for your peace of mind. 


-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: Maddoxjprice
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 11:52am
OK, I just turned it back on. It seems to be alright now. It's mostly blue with the occasional flick of yellow.

-------------
Maddox Price


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 12:23pm
It sounds okay then. Just keep an eye on the openings on the outside to make sure wasps or other insects are not getting in there and building nests/webs that would block the airflow. I added screens to the outside of mine to prevent that. I also put them on the water heater vents and the refrigerator vents. 

These will work for the furnace and water heater:

https://www.amazon.com/BougeRV-Protects-Stainless-Furnaces-Installation/dp/B07F14Q8DP/ - https://www.amazon.com/BougeRV-Protects-Stainless-Furnaces-Installation/dp/B07F14Q8DP/

These will work for the refrigerator:
https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A10-1313VP-Screen-Fridge-Vents/dp/B01MZAQSES - https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A10-1313VP-Screen-Fridge-Vents/dp/B01MZAQSES

Note: I had purchased the longer ones and just cut them to fit. I did not see the shorter ones. If you want, you can make your own and save money, but these are convenient.


-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: Maddoxjprice
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 12:29pm
I will definitely go check the opening on the outside before it starts snowing. I bought this Pod from a friend and she used it for a few years then just let it sit unattended at her parents farm for 2 years. When I got it, it was filthy on the outside. And I had to get the a/c unit professionally cleaned. So who knows what it looks like in there. I've never opened it.

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Maddox Price


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 12:31pm
Well, the furnace is not something you can open. However, you can take a flashlight and look in the air intake and the exhaust ports. The water heater is a different thing. You can open that cover and look inside. Once you take the cover off, you can shine a light in there as well to see at least part of the water heater flue.



-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: Maddoxjprice
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 12:36pm
Noted, thanks so much!

-------------
Maddox Price


Posted By: Maddoxjprice
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 12:39pm
The hot water heater seems to be working fine but the water that comes out smells like turkey grease. 🤣🤣

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Maddox Price


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2022 at 1:39pm
HMMM. There are a couple of things to check. What is the water quality when cold? Are you connected to the city water connection or are you using from the tank? If from the tank, did you sanitize it? Actually, the whole water system should be sanitized at least once a year using bleach. This product will not sanitize, but would probably improve the taste of the water. Note that you do need to flush the system twice after using this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDUTQS/ - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDUTQS/

De-winterizing involves of course adding water to the fresh water tank along with chlorine bleach (straight bleach, no additives) or equivalent source of chlorine 1/4 cup for every 15 gallons of tank capacity mixed with water is needed. Fill the tank part-way, then add the bleach solution. Finish filling the tank.  Pump this through the lines until you smell chlorine at each faucet, then top off the tank and let it sit overnight or for 8 hours. This sanitizes the tank and water lines. After allowing time for the chlorine to sanitize the lines, open the drain and/or pump the chlorinated water from the fresh water tank and refill it. If desired, add  baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to the tank. Pump it through the lines and top off the tank. Let it sit for a while, then pump out the tank or open the drain and let it run out. Then refill the tank with fresh water. You should notice very little, if any, residual taste from the antifreeze if you used that for winterizing. You could use that water to flush the system and drain it and then refill with fresh water if you notice any residual taste.
That is what I do in the spring when I think it is safe to dewinterize.

One other thing. Make sure you have turned the water heater off. Let it cool. Open faucets to relieve any pressure on the system. Using a 1-1/16" socket, remove the anode rod and inspect it. Replace if it is down to the center rod or even if it has just a little of the material left. At the same time, flush any residue out of the water heater tank. Use Teflon tape when you reinstall the old anode rod or install a new anode rod to make it easier to remove the next time you need to do so.  See this post for pictures that will be helpful:

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=14183&PID=137957&title=heater-anode-rod#137957 - http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=14183&PID=137957&title=heater-anode-rod#137957




-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2022 at 3:29am
Originally posted by StephenH


It would seem to be a moot point for DIY. Truma does not even list the Combi on their online shop, only the


Truma is trying to maintain strict distribution channel control but that is very difficult for manufacturers to do in the internet age. You used to be able to find their units on ebay but I didn't see anything right now. Not a big surprise with so many products from most all companies currently backordered or out of stock. If you were seriously interested I'd suggest checking the online sites on a regular basis and being patient. They were never cheap though, IIRC around $2k.

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Maddoxjprice
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2022 at 6:03am
I am running off city water. The cold water isn't stinky. If I were to clean it out with bleach, how much do I use? Like I said, this Pod was sitting for years before I got it. So I do need to sanitize it. I will get my hands on that stuff you sent the Amazon link to.

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Maddox Price


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2022 at 7:39am
When we sanitize our system every spring I use 8oz. bleach in 15 gallons of water, then run it through the system at the outlets until I smell bleach and let it sit overnight.  Next day run the bleach solution through all the outlets until the solution is used up and drain the residual left in the FW tank through the drain plug.  I have never sanitized my HW tank for the 11 years of ownership, figure for as hot as it gets, plus I never use that side for drinking I should be ok but in your case running it through the HW tank and letting it sit overnight should not pose any issues.


-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2022 at 9:52am
1/4 cup bleach for every 15 gallons of tank capacity. Mix with water. Fill the tank part way, add the bleach solution, and fill the tank. Run the faucets until you smell bleach. Start with the closest faucet and then work your way to the most distant faucet. Then top off the tank and let sit overnight before draining and refilling with fresh water.

As for sanitizing the hot water tank, there are bacteria that can survive at boiling water temperatures. We saw this when we went to Yellowstone National Park and saw some of the pools of water covered in various algae. 130-140F water isn't that hot in comparison.


-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS



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