Hopefully, 177 owners will chime in with model specific advice. Here's some generic advice:
Use a good, biological agent in your black tank. Such ones as TankTech's Rx or Unique Products RV Digest-It are good as is Eco Strong RV Holding Tank Treatment. I purchased the Citrus scented. Mainly I purchased it to get the metering bottle, planning to refill it with one of the two I mentioned, but it also seems to be working well. It is much easier to use than trying to measure out by the cap while keeping the product off one's hands and avoiding spilling.
Also, if this is your first time with holding tanks, the key is that you don't need to use a lot of water to flush #1, but you do need plenty of water to flush #2. Fill the bowl at least half-way and lay some paper across the top of the water, then do #2. Add more water and flush. The water keeps the solids from building up as you use the tank. Don't empty until the tank is about 2/3 full so there will be lots of water to help move the contents down the waste line. If you are at a site with full hookups, you can have the grey water valve connected and open, but don't do that with the black tank to avoid the "pyramid of poo." You don't want to have to deal with that! When the tank is at least 2/3 full, you can dump and then add the treatment with some water to start again. If you allow some grey water to accumulate, you can use that to flush out the sewer hose before storing it away.
Batteries: A lot depends on what you want to do. Do you go to campgrounds with shore power available? Then you don't need to worry about how much power you need. If you intend to camp without connections, then power is a consideration. You need a good deep-cycle battery. If you get a lead-acid one, flooded or sealed, don't discharge it below 50%. It will extend the life. If you get a flooded battery, check the fluid level often and add distilled water as needed. If it is sealed, you won't need to worry about this. If you need lots of power for extended trips, then consider dual 6V batteries (connected in series to provide 12V). The down side is weight. A pair of those will be about 120 or more pounds. The only way to get a lot of power without a lot of weight is to convert to LiFePO4, but then it requires a number of other changes. You can read about that in my mods. For casual use though, a Lead-Acid battery is more than adequate.
Solar: I have a Renogy 100W Solar Suitcase that I have used. With my new battery (200AH LiFePO4), I really need more solar capability. I have seen flexible panels mounted on the top and front of an RPod. I prefer the movable solar suitcase though. Even so, a lot depends on where and when you intend to use them. Solar panels work best when there is unobstructed sunlight. If they are shaded, it cuts or eliminates the power that is generated. You may wish to check out an inverter generator in addition to or instead of solar for those times solar is not a viable option.
------------- StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...
http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS
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