My next modification was Relocating Spare Tire and installing a Storage Trunk Carrier in the existing hitch receiver.

I removed the existing spare hardware and relocated the spare using the  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KPQYZ6O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - BAL 28217 Hide-A-Spare Tire Storage Mount .  I installed a  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ISLA1WA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - MaxxHaul 70355 1-1/4" to 2" Hitch Adapter with 4" Rise and 3-3/8" Drop  and a  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JF5LRN0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - CURT 18153 60 x 24-Inch Basket Hitch Cargo Carrier .  I also found this 16 CU Ft   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ6GY9A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - Buyers Products - 1712255 Black Poly All-Purpose Chest .  It fits perfectly in the carrier.  I drilled a couple of holes in the chest and carriage bolted it through the bottom of the carrier.

The large storage chest is great.  I have enough room for two small generators, one 5-gallon gas container and two 6-gallon water containers.  However, with the weight limitations of the original 1" receiver, I won't be putting the full water containers in there during travelling.  I need to find a solution to strengthen the 1" hitch somehow.

One note on the BAL spare tire system - it is a total royal pain to get the spare in and out of that thing.  I understand that's not a thing that I will be doing often, but I dread the first time that I will need to change a flat.. lol

I agree, a LOT of reinforcing will be necessary for this to adequately function w/o a nasty result as in a bent frame or cracked hitch and support members.  As you are likely aware, there will be a lot of bouncing going on and the 'cantilever effect' will take its toll unless major welding takes place to support all that weight.  There have been numerous members who have been successful in this venture however and the one that comes to the forefront is what Marwayne accomplished on his R-Pod. 

You can see it here:  Go to non-pod discussion, then mods, maintenance tips and tricks and then click on the topic that states "generator on rear cargo carrier."

We reinforced our hitch by adding a 2" receiver, an additional 2"x2" steel cross member, angle iron and use a hitch tightner on the shank. We use it for a bike rack.

here is the new 2" receiver added to the existing 1 1/4" receiver

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here you can see the new 2x2 cross member and the angle iron connecting the rear of the receiver to the new cross member

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here is the hitch tightner with the shank

https://postimg.cc/SJvdtcyT">

In addition, we also added an eyebolt at each end of the frame and connected cam straps from the frame(eye bolts) to the carrier.  This helps to eliminate any side to side or up/down motion. All of the welds were done professionally. I also added a second set of taillights about 30" above the stock units as the carrier blocks the original lights.

You are taking a risk by reinforcing the area and carrying a lot of weight that is cantilevered beyond the frame.and should consider the consequences.

Vann

Hey Pod People...what's with the flamingos?

At this time I don't intend to load that hitch more than 150 lbs.  I believe that weight will be safe.  

I don't understand what people mean by "the frame bending at axel attachment points".  The only thing that I can see that would bend or warp is the 1.25" hitch cross bar that is welded to the 2x4 main frame.  I can't see how loading up that hitch can bend any other frame components.

I'm a noob at this. As I take out this 2020 R-Pod on the road, I'm sure I will learn more.  I will post updates as they happen.  I'm hoping the learning experience will be peasant.  I hate learning from mistakes.  

WOW!

Weigh the original spare and tire mount.  Measure the horizontal distance from the pin hole in the original hitch to the center of the tire.  Multiply that by the weight of the tire/mount assembly.  Then, divide that by the horizontal distance from the pin hole to the center of your hitch basket.  THAT is the safe weight limit of the hitch for a load in the basket.  I doubt it be as high as the weight of the basket alone.  That huge lever arm the basket has against the OEM hitch is like adding a pipe to a wrench to loosen a bolt.  Plus, a bouncing load can easily add 2x the force of a static load. 

That long lever arm is why the frame WILL bend at the axle if you do that often enough.  The stress flows in the frame to the axle where it is transferred to the ground.  The max bending stress is at the axle; that cheater bar thing again. 

Put your storage box inside the trailer over the axle.  Do not exceed the Gross Weight limit of the trailer or axle. 

I know this sounds harsh.  I hope it is about as harsh as the bouncing generators and gas cans will be when it lets go on the interstate.  This is not 1970s design engineering (there is no excess capacity).  With computers, that frame can be sized to within a very few percent of design loads.  You can be sure FR did so to get the trailer weight so low. 

Choose only two of the three. There is no alternative.