Print Page | Close Window

Dometic Refrigerator 2012 Rpod

Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: I need HELP!!!
Forum Discription: Perplexed/need help with a problem - ask here
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=14430
Printed Date: 05 May 2024 at 11:21pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Dometic Refrigerator 2012 Rpod
Posted By: Bob@Zion
Subject: Dometic Refrigerator 2012 Rpod
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2021 at 12:26pm

We purchased an 2012 Rpod  Hood River Edition travel trailer that hasn’t been used for 5 years.  It has a Dometic RM 8501 refrigerator.  We have read through the manual for this unit but cannot find answers to our questions.

 

  1.  The ambient temperature in the trailer is currently 35 F.  Will the refrigerator operate at that ambient temperature?
  2. The ! light is flashing but none of the other indicator lights are flashing. There are no alarm sounds.  The ! light is in flash mode whether the AC, Battery or LP power sources are selected.
  3. The trailer is hooked up to AC power and has operational LP but does not currently have 12DC batteries hooked up.  Does the trailer need to have the 12DC batteries in operation in order for the refrigerator to function in AC or LP modes?
  4. When driving with trailer should the refrigerator be set to LP or 12DC power.  We did see that we should only use DC power when driving the trailer, but did not see an indication of what the preferred power source is when driving.

 

We are sorry for general lack of knowledge about this sort of system.  We are trying to get ready for our first camping trip in this Rpod.  

 

Thanks in advance for any advice.




Replies:
Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2021 at 1:40pm
The unit needs 12VDC, the control board operates off 12 volts. (reason for warning with no indicators)  When towing I use the battery power, because I can with no negative effect, many use LP, because they prefer not to use 12V battery.  The fridge will operate at that ambient temp, possibility as you get experience it will not be as cold in hotter temps.  I have operated my 8501 in colder temps.  Put 12VDC to it and continue testing.

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2021 at 1:59pm
If the trailer is connected to ac then the ac to dc converter/charger should be supplying 12V to the trailer. Do the lights, water pump etc run? As mcarter says, you must have 12V to the fridge controls for it to operate in any mode, even 120Vac.

Propane or 12V while on the road is up to you, there are few topics that create as much back and forth debate among RVer’s as that one.

It’s going to be hard to determine if the fridge is actually working properly if it is only 35 deg in the trailer. As in your house, fridges are intended to keep stuff cold, not frozen. If the freezer section iced up then that means it’s doing something, you’ll have to either run the heater or wait till warmer weather to see if it is working correctly.

RV fridges use ammonia as a refrigerant so will slowly corrode from the inside out even when not in use, so it is entirely possible for your fridge to be dead even if it’s been sitting for years.

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2021 at 3:24pm
+1 to  mcarter
+1 to offgrid

Just recently installed a new RM 8501 fridge in my 177 in January and had to run the furnace for awhile  (while leaving the fridge door open) to get the ambient temperature warm enough inside to test and see if it would function on 12v battery, shore power, and propane - which it did on all three.

Before doing that I found myself in a similar situation as you, outside temps were in the mid 20's and when each function was tried (battery, shore power, propane) nothing happened because it was too cold.  No reason for refer to come on when the temp was already colder than what I would be asking the refer to 'cool' to.

Advertisement: If you are in need of a new 8501 there is a brand new one for sale under the general camping tab in the campers flea market section.


-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: Bob@Zion
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2021 at 3:59pm
So we hooked up a battery (only have one right now) and now observe the following:
1.  When mode is LP the indicator lights appear green and steady.  We can hear the gas through the outside vent area when cover is off.  Sounds like a regular furnace.  No odor detected.
2.  When mode is Battery indicator lights are green and steady.  We can hear the electronics under the bench seat.
3.  However when mode is AC power the ! light blinks red and the AC indicator light blinks green.
4.  All the lights in and outside of the trailer work with the AC power and no battery connected.
5.  Fan, heater, and air conditioner all worked with AC power and no battery.
6.  One plug in the slide out kitchen area does not work but all of the others do.
7.  We haven't put water into the system yet so we don't yet know if the water pump or water heater work.
8.  Stove and microwave both work.

If the indicator lights appear correct in LP mode should we assume it's operating and wait to see if it cools?  The outside temp has warmed up now as well as the inside of the trailer.

Any ideas of why it is showing the ! blinking light when in the AC power mode with most of the other electric things working?


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2021 at 4:52pm
The outlet not working bothers me.  Check fuses and breakers, then check voltage at rear of fridge where it plugs into outlet to get AC power.  Appears your LP and battery modes are working, at least no warning indicators, if it's warmed up fridge should cool.

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2021 at 5:43pm
Check the gfi and see if it is tripped.  Ours is at the fridge, yours may be at the outlet in the kitchen area that fails to work. 


-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: Bob@Zion
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2021 at 5:54pm
Thanks for all the comments.  
The only GFI plug that we can find on this rpod is on the lower side of the dinette bench closest to the kitchen.  We have now been able to verify that the refrig actually works and cools right down when in the LP mode. We were also able to verify that the water pump and water heater work.   

As was mentioned in an earlier post it looks like there is something wrong with the plug for the refrig and the one plug in the kitchen wall.  Neither of these plugs are GFI... doesn't that seem strange? 


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2021 at 6:08pm
All the plugs are on one GFI. RESET the one GFI then figure out why you have two plugs with no AC voltage.  Find out that problem and I think you'll be working.

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2021 at 6:19pm
I have seen instances where mice have gained access somehow and chewed through wires on r-pods.  Especially can be a possibility here whereby this unit has been sitting vacant for 5 years.  Agree with mcarter, take a close look at the 2 nonworking plugs.  If there is no power at the plug, remove cover (with power dis-connected) and verify you have connection from the wire to the outlet. 


-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2021 at 6:49pm
Run an extension cord to back of fridge and plug into 120, see if the fridge works, if it does, you know the outlet is problem.

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: Bob@Zion
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2021 at 6:06pm
Thanks for the extension cord suggestion.  It proved that the problem is the plug or wire to the plug.  Good news is that the refrigerator is fine.  


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2021 at 6:18pm
Yippee - now we just need to figure out what happened to those two outlets.  Bet it's a common issue to them, I'd start by looking for good wiring on them, no loose wires.  The first one in the chain is  suspect.  I think you're on it.  As I recall there is a CKT BRKR for the fridge 120.

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: Bob@Zion
Date Posted: 03 Mar 2021 at 9:30pm
We had a friend come over to try to help us find the electrical problem.  We and he are more perplexed.
1.  When the trailer is plugged in there seems to be some level of electric voltage running through the frame of the trailer even when nothing is on (no lights, etc.).
2.  GFI plug is not tripped.  
3.  Looking from the underside of the trailer, all the wires appear to be in good shape and well grounded.

Our friend theorizes that the refrig. doesn't work in AC mode due to power draining somewhere so maybe not enough power to allow the frig to properly function in that mode.  Does that sound reasonable?  

Any other ideas what might be happening?  Or how to locate where the electricity is being transferred to the trailer frame?


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 03 Mar 2021 at 9:54pm
Sounds like you have a wire that is shorted to the frame. That is dangerous. Wires may look okay on the surface or in the areas you see, but in an area you can't see may be damaged. It may be time to bring in a professional if you don't have a friend that is knowledgeable.

-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2021 at 5:20am
Agree, it can be dangerous.  Do you have a multimeter?  With power disconnected you can measure plugs to ground/frame.  With power on you can measure voltages on plugs, if you are below 120, then your friend could be right.  I'm still of the opinion the issue is with the two plugs and or wiring to them.  It's not all the plugs.  You may be best served to have a pro look at it.  Not to say you're not doing well.

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2021 at 6:19am
It can’t be that there isn’t enough power available to both run the fridge on a/c and feed a fault to the frame of the trailer. That would trip your home circuit breaker.

I am assuming that the way you noticed that you have a short to the frame is because you are getting shocked when you touch something. Voltages are always relative, meaning that you measure or feel the difference in voltage between two points. Were you were standing on the ground and touched the frame when you felt the shock? That would mean that the frame of the trailer is getting energized by your household circuit and you are completing that circuit by creating a path to earth via your body, which in turn is connected to the ground rod back at your service panel.

That can be extremely dangerous. GFCI’s trip at about 5 milliamps which is a tiny current. 100 mA which is still not much current can be fatal. Don’t mess with it. Disconnect from shore power and do the rest of your testing by measuring resistance between the circuit and frame. You will need a multimeter for that. If you don’t have one or don’t feel comfortable working around electric circuits then take the trailer to a professional.

The other possibility is that you might have an open ground on your shore power receptacle. That would leave the trailer frame ungrounded because it gets its ground connection from that receptacle. If you have either a meter or an outlet tester you can check and eliminate that possibility.




-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold



Print Page | Close Window

Bulletin Board Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2009 Web Wiz - http://www.webwizguide.com