Print Page | Close Window

176 dual battery install - second opinion

Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Introduce Yourself
Forum Discription: New Members - tell us about yourself and your r-pod
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=14416
Printed Date: 09 Jun 2025 at 3:47pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: 176 dual battery install - second opinion
Posted By: Camperisfordrinking
Subject: 176 dual battery install - second opinion
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 6:04pm

Hello Everyone.  New member and finally decided to join after stalking for about a year.

I've got a 2018 176 that I drag around to Harvest Host locations. Let's face it, they hooked me at "Breweries, wineries and distilleries". Because we use HH so much I'm boondocking most of the time and found I was running out of power a lot. I have a Zamp suitcase unit that I hook into the side of the rig but I often don't have enough daylight to charge the battery. Did a bunch of research this winter and decided to upgrade my one 100A Deka deep cycle marine battery to a two unit system wired in parallel.

I had to custom order several cables because of course my cables were all 5/16 and the battery disconnect is 3/8. I used #4AWG between the batteries and leading to the disconnect and kept the original #8 leading to the chassis. What I'm looking for is anything you notice based on my schematic that doesn't make sense for the Pod or gotchas that someone ran into. Thanks in advance!



Replies:
Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 6:21pm
I am only a 'nominal' electric guy so i will pass that judgment to the 'experts' on this.  From what I see, it looks good.

I also own a pair of 12 volt batteries although I run each separately because they weren't purchased as a set together, they are nearly 4 months different in age.  Oldest is dated 12/2010 the newer is 03/2011 and one time I tried to run the fridge on battery and totally discharged the battery in about 4 hours.  They are both group size 24 deep cycle Interstates.

What I will add here even though you didn't ask is to be careful how much you discharge your batteries.  Maintenance is key to longevity.  Don't run them below 60% S.O.C. or 12.2 volts and maintain electrolyte levels with distilled water only.  We usually boondock as well so our batteries get a good workout every year and here they are 10 years old and still very dependable.

How old is your original battery?  I would be leery of hooking them together if your original is more than a few months older than the one you just purchased.


-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 6:59pm
Looks fine. I’d add a fuse in the + line to your solar charge controller. 20A will do, and also consider a 40A switchable circuit breaker in the main battery + line rather than a disconnect switch. The closer your over current protection is the batteries the safer you are from any shorts than might occur downstream.

Jato is right about not connecting an aging or heavily cycled battery in parallel with a new one, they will be imbalanced. If you do get two new batteries, consider getting two 6 volt golf cart deep cycle batteries in series, they will tolerate discharging better than the Dekas.

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Camperisfordrinking
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 7:19pm
Thanks for the reply.  One of them is almost brand new and the other is about 2 years old. I'm going to replace the old one in a few weeks so the two batteries are almost identical in age. I've got a Noco smart charger/repair unit that I'm using every month or so while the batteries are in the garage for the winter. I'm even old school superstitious enough that I set the batteries on a 2x4 instead of on the concrete of the garage. That's probably an old-wives tale but it only took two seconds to get out a scrap 2x4.


Posted By: Camperisfordrinking
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 7:21pm
Thanks for the tip about the fuse in the + line to the solar charger. Hadn't thought about that. It came from FR without an inline fuse and I am quickly learning that they don't necessarily do things the right way all the time.


Posted By: Colt
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 10:10pm
Originally posted by Camperisfordrinking

Hello Everyone.  New member and finally decided to join after stalking for about a year.
I've got a 2018 176 that I drag around to Harvest Host locations. Let's face it, they hooked me at "Breweries, wineries and distilleries". Because we use HH so much I'm boondocking most of the time and found I was running out of power a lot. I have a Zamp suitcase unit that I hook into the side of the rig but I often don't have enough daylight to charge the battery. Did a bunch of research this winter and decided to upgrade my one 100A Deka deep cycle marine battery to a two unit system wired in parallel.
I had to custom order several cables because of course my cables were all 5/16 and the battery disconnect is 3/8. I used #4AWG between the batteries and leading to the disconnect and kept the original #8 leading to the chassis. What I'm looking for is anything you notice based on my schematic that doesn't make sense for the Pod or gotchas that someone ran into. Thanks in advance!


That will work, but you need some fuses in those new wires so they don't burn up on a short. Depending on the insulation temp rating, you'll want a 40A fuse in the 8 gauge wire including the line got the disconnect and 70A in the 4 gauge wire. Look up an ampacity chart for wire size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPKZS5S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Maxi-Fuse/dp/B000XBCYF0/ref=pd_day0_3?pd_rd_w=WaVit&pf_rd_p=8ca997d7-1ea0-4c8f-9e14-a6d756b83e30&pf_rd_r=XG74JQNH977ECNSTV236&pd_rd_r=8e1bc5ce-df39-4563-b3a7-13e901e95b7d&pd_rd_wg=n2LSm&pd_rd_i=B01LBJOSP6&psc=1

-------------
John
'16 R-Pod 180


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2021 at 6:53am
To clarify my fuse/ circuit breaker recommendations:

Your Renogy kit is likely 100 watts which has a short circuit current of 6A. Code requires you to multiply that by 1.56 to avoid nuisance trips and for enhanced output due to cloud reflection. That puts you at just below 10A. By going with 20A you could add a second solar module. The 8 awg wires themselves are good for 40A as Colt says so you could do that but it’s not necessary.n

The 8 awg positive wire to the rpod panel should be protected at 40A, that’s also what’s in the panel itself. That one can be a manual operated circuit breaker so you don’t also need a battery disconnect.

In large parallel battery banks you place a fuse in the positive output (assuming a negative ground system) of each parallel battery string, and then combine them at a separate connection point, like a dedicated bussbar or the input to the battery disconnect. I wouldn’t put a fuse in the negative jumper though because if that blows you’ve lost your ground reference. In practice no one does internal battery system fusing with a small dual battery system. You just use heavier gauge jumpers instead, and you’re already doing that. Another benefit of using 2 6V batteries in series is that the battery fuse/circuit breaker protects everything as there is only one current path.,

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2021 at 6:55am
Originally posted by Camperisfordrinking

I'm even old school superstitious enough that I set the batteries on a 2x4 instead of on the concrete of the garage. That's probably an old-wives tale but it only took two seconds to get out a scrap 2x4.


I chuckle when I see or hear of people doing that.  IF your battery is a 1940's build or earlier you MIGHT want to do that IF your battery has a wood case, otherwise it is as you say 'an old wives tale'

My current batteries are 10 years old and spend 5 months every year sitting directly on a concrete floor in a unheated garage.


-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2021 at 7:47am
More like an old mechanic’s tale. The other battery type that didn’t do so well sitting on concrete was the old glass jar cells which had a tendency to break when not in a protective rack. Plastic cases solved all those problems.

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2021 at 8:00am
Originally posted by offgrid

More like an old mechanic’s tale. The other battery type that didn’t do so well sitting on concrete was the old glass jar cells which had a tendency to break when not in a protective rack. Plastic cases solved all those problems.


Please enlighten me OG.  Not familiar with that style of battery.  When were they in production and for what purpose did they serve?  I wouldn't think they would have ever been used in the auto industry as any old car I have ridden in rides kinda like a 'rock.'  Even my old '69 Vette was a rough rider.


-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2021 at 9:40am
Glass jar cells were common in the late 19th and early 20th century. Pre-plastic days, glass was and is a great dielectric (non conductive) and tolerates corrosive acid and alkaline electrolytes. A lot of the Edison nickel-iron cells were in glass jars, as were early lead acid cells. You are right that they were mostly used in stationary applications like railroad signals and telecom, both of which are dc. Not sure if they were used in early automotive applications or not. I know Edison originally wanted to sell them for use in the early electric cars which were more popular than gas cars, but by the time he had them in volume production Ford had perfected the gasoline car and the rest is history.

Those old Edison cells lasted forever. Exude bought them out and shut down production in the 1970’s, I guess there was no money to be made making batteries that never needed to be replaced🤔

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Camperisfordrinking
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 7:45am
Thanks for the responses everyone. Looks like my system will work with a few modifications and I even learned something about glass jar batteries lol


Posted By: tewjax
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 10:06am
This may not be the place for it but what is the purpose or benefit of going with two 6V batteries?

-------------
Tim & Diane, 2020.5 R-Pod 196
2007 Chevy Avalanche
2018 Honda Pilot AWD
2 Poms (Munson & Georgia)


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 11:01am
Simple answer - more amp hours.  I was going to do this mod quite a few years ago as I know how well built the Trojan 6v batteries are with proper maintenance.  We used them in a lot of our golf cart applications on the golf course.  However, Yamaha went to a 48 volt system in their cars over 10 years ago and went to using 6 of the 8 volt batteries.  However the 6 volt is still very popular and readily available today.

I will probably go that route once my 12v Interstate go 'kerplunk' but they continue to give good service, even after 10 years!  I maybe will have to rethink this whole thing, the only negative to the pair of 6 volt batteries is additional weight on the a-frame (tongue).  We usually boondock and normally won't sit still in one spot for more than a week.  While traveling the batteries get charged again by the onboard converter so it's not like we are running out of power. 

When we were in RMNP for 6 days in September night temps were in the 40's and we could get 3 days service per battery before switching to the other.  We try to avoid running below 60% S.O.C. or 12.2 volts for maximum longevity.


-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 12:36pm
Jato, I highly doubt you’d get 10 years from the Trojans. The antimony alloy used in the deep cycle batteries allows for heavier cycling at the expense of shorter shelf life and higher water consumption. Since you can’t be cycling your batteries very heavily anyway, or you wouldn’t be getting that kind of lifetime, you might want to stay with what you already are used to and just get two new batteries similar to what you have now. You could leave them both connected on the trailer since you would be getting two new batts at the same time, otherwise keep doing what you’re doing as it seems to be working out well for you.

Just a thought, for most folks boondocking I think the dual 6V golf cart battery approach is probably better because it is more tolerant of cycling.

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 12:45pm
Thank you OG.  For years I have been planning on the 6v but I wasn't aware of the antimony alloy used in them.  I don't even know what they use differently in the 12v ! 

I know that the 6v Trojan batteries on our fleet of golf carts was good for only 4 years here in northern Michigan vs. the same batteries in Florida would go for 6 years and would be used 12 months a year vs. in Michigan they would only be used for 7 months.

Since you are the 'go to' guy, what is the recommended draw down on 6 volt batteries?  I have always gone with the 60% S.O.C. or 12.2v on the 12 volt batteries.  Thanks


-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: Olddawgsrule
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 3:24pm
Originally posted by offgrid

Jato, I highly doubt you’d get 10 years from the Trojans. The antimony alloy used in the deep cycle batteries allows for heavier cycling at the expense of shorter shelf life and higher water consumption. Since you can’t be cycling your batteries very heavily anyway, or you wouldn’t be getting that kind of lifetime, you might want to stay with what you already are used to and just get two new batteries similar to what you have now. You could leave them both connected on the trailer since you would be getting two new batts at the same time, otherwise keep doing what you’re doing as it seems to be working out well for you.

Just a thought, for most folks boondocking I think the dual 6V golf cart battery approach is probably better because it is more tolerant of cycling.

If I understand this correctly, you are talking difference between dual 12v vs. dual 6v. I just wish for all of us to be certain of which is being spoken of. 

I've had 12v's go much further than 10yrs, yet it's the values of which that means something. My 6's have surpassed anything my 12's have ever done. Just my experience and testing (records).


-------------
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJduGeZNFgtptH67leItRFQ - Byways no Highways
2017 Tacoma
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=72408 - Truck Camper Build
2004 F150 My Overlander


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 3:58pm
Yes, sorry I didn't clarify that.  I am talking difference between dual 12v vs. duel 6v.


-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: Olddawgsrule
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 4:21pm
Originally posted by jato

Yes, sorry I didn't clarify that.  I am talking difference between dual 12v vs. duel 6v.

My apologies.. I meant that towards OG and explaining further. 



-------------
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJduGeZNFgtptH67leItRFQ - Byways no Highways
2017 Tacoma
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=72408 - Truck Camper Build
2004 F150 My Overlander


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 7:02pm
Sorry for not being clear. I’m not talking about 6 vs 12 V specifically, it’s not the voltage itself that makes the batteries different. Its the battery chemistry I’m referring to. It’s just that it’s more likely to find a deep cycle lead antimony battery in a 6V configuration. Read this for more info:

https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/lead_based_batteriesi

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold



Print Page | Close Window

Bulletin Board Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2009 Web Wiz - http://www.webwizguide.com