Do I have a roof vent that could be blocked with a nest or debris? Can I blow it out on my own?

Thanks

Okay. Look on the outside. If you  see two vents on the wall outside of the refrigerator, you do not have a roof vent. As far as I know, only the newer, larger RPod models have roof vents. I take it this is an RPod you recently purchased and the refrigerator is not cooling properly? Here are some things to consider, especially if you have never had an absorption refrigerator before.

The first thing to do is to look up how absorption refrigerators work. This article and the ones linked from it will help:

https://www.rvrepairclub.com/article/how-absorption-refrigeration-works/# - https://www.rvrepairclub.com/article/how-absorption-refrigeration-works/# Once you understand how it works, you will better understand what is happening. For example, if the refrigerator is too far off level (side-to-side or front-to-back, it can't work because the fluids need to flow and being too far off level can not only keep it from working, but can lead to failure of the unit. Leaking hydrogen from the unit can be a fire hazard.

The second is a question of how you are trying to run it. Are you using AC, DC, or LP? If you have power available, AC is the way to go. That will also help determine whether it works or not without burning propane or killing your battery. If it works on AC, then the next thing is to see if it works on LP gas. For that to work, the burner needs to be clean and unobstructed by mud-dauber nests, etc. The burner orifice needs to be clear of obstructions. If you take it out to clean it, don't poke things through it. You could damage it and create a hazard. Rubbing alcohol works good for cleaning it. The burner needs to be cleaned also. Don't forget the flue. The slanted T shaped top will come off by removing a screw. Then there is a spiral shaped piece of metal attached to a wire. Clean out the flue and replace the spiral before putting the top back on. Leak check the burner if you removed the line to make sure there are no leaks.

Next is to look for evidence of ammonia and hydrogen leakage. If there is a smell of ammonia or you see yellow stains, you likely have a bad cooling unit. At that point, your only viable choice is to contact Forest River and see about purchasing a replacement. Replacement cooling uints are available, but they don't necessarily save you any money.

Also to consider is that absorption units just do not cool the same as compressor driven units. Absorption units can, however, run on LP gas, something a compressor based unit can't do. An absorption refrigerator takes time, up to 24 hours, to cool from ambient temperatures down to proper refrigerator temperatures. An empty refrigerator will cool, but opening the door allows all the cool air to spill out and then it has to cool a new batch of air. They work better when they have contents such as water bottles, groceries, etc. Jut be sure to allow room for air circulation. Unless you add a fan to the inside, cooling is by convection. I saw the other topic about the fan. That helps move air across the condenser fins.

I'm sure others will reply with more information. I hope you get it figured out.

The service people found a mud wasp nest after the first trouble we ever had with cooling on propane. They cleaned it (exactly where and to what level, I don't know) and it has lit easily ever since, but does NOT cool.  It cooled beautifully on propane as well as AC and battery before the mud critters.

Thanks for your detailed info.  I'll take a second look at all.

I cannot take a photo of the flame right now as I am watching a little one, nap time.

The flame is the strongest we've seen throughout this issue and it gives off a little "roar" when you put your ear to the outside of the panel.

Could the lack of the fan be an issue to my non-cooling?

I made a suggestion on your other thread on the connector. It really helps avoid confusion if you keep the discussion on each topic on a single thread. 

+1

It is helpful to know it is working on AC power. I have noticed times when AC seemed to be cooling better than LP. How are you tracking temperatures? I have used an indoor/outdoor thermometer, placing the outdoor sender in the refrigerator. That way I don't have to open the door to know the temperature inside the refrigerator.

I also had a mud dauber problem when we first got the trailer. We bought it in December and left a week after we bought it on a long trip. I cooled it on AC and then switched to DC for towing. I did not know that the DC draw was that high and tried to run it on DC overnight and woke up early to the refrigerator beeping from low power. I had dual 6V batteries, so I thought I would be okay. When I went to light it, it would not light. I had a friend observe while I tried it from inside, and he saw the flame shooting out toward the regulator. Needless to say, we had to backtrack to the dealer who found the mud dauber nest. Then the shop tried to say I was responsible. There had been frost and freezing temperatures before we left and no wasps were active at the time. The RPod had sat on their lot during the warmer months. I brought that to their attention and they covered the repair under warranty. Because some of the wires for the igniter and thermocouple were burned, they had to order replacements. This was our first trip, and was to visit our daughters and grandchildren out west so I had no choice but to run on LP and keep an eye on things to make sure the wires did not short. We got back and the repair was completed. After that, I put screens on the refrigerator vents to keep wasps and other insects out. I also did likewise with the water heater and furnace. I've had no repeat of the problem.

I think you saw my reply about the wiring. If you are close to your dealer, I would take it to them and ask them to complete the repair by reconnecting the fan. If it is not convenient, try the mirror to see if that helps you to see why you can't slide the wire back into place.

Beside the original single fan on our refrigerator, I added two fans strapped to the upper vent to help pull hot air out of the compartment. These are wired in parallel with the existing fan and run when the switch on the upper condenser starts the lower fan. I also added a fan unit to the inside of the refrigerator to circulate air inside. It also helps reduce the amount of frost build-up on the evaporator fins inside. This is one example:

http://rvcoolingunit.com/Dometic-Evaporator-Fan-Greater-inside-Cooling-LED-Deluxe-wGrill-and-Light-P5444060.aspx - http://rvcoolingunit.com/Dometic-Evaporator-Fan-Greater-inside-Cooling-LED-Deluxe-wGrill-and-Light-P5444060.aspx

I could not find one exactly the same as the one I bought. This one is similar but has an added light and independently controlled fans. Mine has one switch for two fans.