Print Page | Close Window

Need Help with Switch for Electric Tongue Jack

Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: I need HELP!!!
Forum Discription: Perplexed/need help with a problem - ask here
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=14001
Printed Date: 25 May 2025 at 2:41pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Need Help with Switch for Electric Tongue Jack
Posted By: Ben Herman
Subject: Need Help with Switch for Electric Tongue Jack
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2020 at 12:40pm
I recently installed an electric tongue jack on my 179. Works great, only concern that I have is that we park our trailer in our alley that sees a fair amount of foot traffic. I'm thinking that I want to install an inline switch that will turn off power to the jack when not in use, so that no one can mess with it. The power supply wire is 12 gauge, and it has a 30 amp inline fuse. Any ideas on where I can find a suitable switch for this? I'm not knowledgeable enough in 12v systems to know whether I need to match the amperage rating for a switch; assuming yeas, but not sure. Most of the switches that I see online are lighter-weight, for LED lights and such. 

Any advice would be appreciated.



Replies:
Posted By: mjlrpod
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2020 at 1:06pm
I share your concern, and have always kinda wanted to put a kill switch on mine. I'll be watching for suggestions too. I wouldn't mind a locking FWT cap either. 

-------------
2017.5 Rp-172
2020 R-pod 195
2015 Frontier sv 4.0L 6cyl
I'll be rpodding


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2020 at 1:45pm
Yes, if you install a switch, it needs to have the same or higher current rating as the fuse protercting it does. The fuse is there to protect from fires if you have a short somewhere in the circuit so everything downstream of the fuse should be rated at 30A or more.

12 gauge wire is generally only good for 20A though so the manufacturer already created a hazard. Sadly that is not uncommon. What might be best is to replace that 30A fuse with a 20A circuit breaker which could provide proper overcurrent protection as well as act as a switch. 

Say something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/STETION-Resettable-Circuit-Overload-Protection/dp/B07FF8VXJQ/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=20+amp+inline+dc+circuit+breaker&qid=1599936206&sr=8-1 - https://www.amazon.com/STETION-Resettable-Circuit-Overload-Protection/dp/B07FF8VXJQ/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=20+amp+inline+dc+circuit+breaker&qid=1599936206&sr=8-1


-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Ben Herman
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2020 at 3:46pm
Thanks for the suggestion, looks like a reasonable solution. Unfortunately the inline fuse is right up close to the controls so if I just swap this out, it'll be right where anyone can see it. I'm thinking that I can splice out the inline fuse and move the breaker somewhere further down the wire, where it can be hidden.


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2020 at 3:58pm
In that case you can just leave the 30A fuse where it is. Once you have a 20A breaker upstream of it it will never blow, because the breaker would trip first if you had a short. 

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2020 at 4:23pm
Another solution would be to install a lockable main battery disconnect switch if you don't already have one. Then rewire the jack power to the downstream (load) side of the switch. This would have the advantage of eliminating the constant load on the battery from the CO/Propane detector. In either case the 20A CB would be a good idea. 

-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: Ben Herman
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2020 at 5:01pm
Originally posted by CharlieM

Another solution would be to install a lockable main battery disconnect switch if you don't already have one. Then rewire the jack power to the downstream (load) side of the switch. This would have the advantage of eliminating the constant load on the battery from the CO/Propane detector. In either case the 20A CB would be a good idea. 

I'll look into that as well. It looks like the jack and the solar panel connection are wired directly to the positive side of the battery, so I'll have to figure out how to wire the switch so that they are "downstream". 


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2020 at 5:12pm
I think better option is to disable battery, not jack. Not sure what concern is with raising or lowering a jack. It doesn't effect much without some other actions. I think I'd find a bigger fish.

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: Pod_Geek
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2020 at 3:33pm
Remove the inline fuse?  Who runs around with 30A fuses in their pocket?


-------------
2020.5 R-Pod 195 Hood River
2018 RAM 2500 6.4L


Posted By: Ben Herman
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2020 at 3:54pm
Originally posted by Pod_Geek

Remove the inline fuse?  Who runs around with 30A fuses in their pocket?

yeah, probably the easiest. Although I'd be the guy to go somewhere and lose the fuse. Only reason that I care about this is that if someone were to mess with it and raise/lower the jack, that it could potentially damage the scissor jacks and/or frame. Not likely, but want to take away that possibility.


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2020 at 4:49pm
Removing the 30A inline fuse and storing it inside the Pod is certainly the easiest solution for the jack. However this may expose the guts of the fuse holder to the elements, depending on its design. You still should have a way to disconnect the battery if the Pod is left unattended and unplugged for several weeks. The fixed and unfused loads of the CO/Propane detector and thermostat will drain the battery in just a few weeks. A battery disconnect switch is one way to accomplish this, either factory installed or as an owner mod. 

-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2020 at 4:53pm
+1

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: fwunder
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2020 at 5:14pm
Exploding dye packets would be a lot more fun.






-------------
2014 RPod 178 => https://goo.gl/CV446f - MyMods and Buying Habits
2008 4Runner Limited 4.0-liter V6
Yes, those are wild ponies dining on grass while dumping tanks!


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2020 at 5:58pm
It would be fun for a minute until you realized that you would then have to get the dye off your rPod... Maybe there is way to direct the dye away from the pod? 

How about connecting an alarm in parallel with the electric jack motor? Star  Just remember to use the hidden alarm kill switch before hitching up so you don't annoy the neighbors every time you go on a camping trip....


-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: podwerkz
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2020 at 10:23pm
Hot lead of the 120 v shore cord wired to the metal switch handle/toggle lever.

Yeah....that's the ticket.


-------------
r・pod 171 gone but not forgotten!



Print Page | Close Window

Bulletin Board Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2009 Web Wiz - http://www.webwizguide.com