This first video link talks to some warranty issues around the floor of my 179. You can fast forward to time 6:00 or so and forward if you want to skip the full background: 

All the best!

~PP

BTW I thought you traded off the r-pod and had bought some other brand of trailer....

I plan to go back to camping after the summer heat is over, I dont plan to go too far, and around here, its just really too hot to boondock. I've waited 6 months, I can wait 2 more!

We almost exclusively boondock in ours also. The layout and size is near the perfect boondocking platform for a couple I think. The narrower width than the "wide" rpods improves visibility on the road, and I don't need trailer mirrors on the SUV, which are a nuisance. I wouldn't want to tow one of the bigger pods with my Highlander anyway. I can pretty much get into any drive up campsite with my rig, including dispersed campsites with light off road access and undeveloped forest service camps. Just drive very slowly on rough roads. 

Nice big kitchen area well separated from the sleeping area so I can make coffee early in the morning without disturbing my wife, and the slide makes for a separate eating and living area without being cramped into a conventional RV dinette. I personally despise those. 

Some folks dislike the wet bath but we find it not a problem at all, its not a space we spend any time in anyway. Other folks dislike the bed access but for us its fine, we wind up shifting sides once during the night, not a big deal. Plenty of storage, too much really, gotta watch the weight especially when hauling water boondocking. 

As for converting the 179 to a full on boondocking setup, there are a few things required. First, you need a lift kit and I reinforced my axle and went to higher capacity tires and wheels. 12V power points, 12V fans, 12V TV, and usb power points. Dual GC2 batteries. Small backup generator, converted to propane so no messing with gasoline. Easystart on the a/c. I've really not changed anything in the interior of the trailer at all, except getting a real mattress, I think FR did a great job as is. 

I had big plans to convert to a mini split a/c, a high capacity 24V lithium battery system and big roof solar array, but am holding off as our use profile has changed (or will post quarantine). We used to live in  coastal NC and had to have a/c there but now that we live in the Appalachians I'm waiting to see if that is going to be needed. I doubt it, it doesn't really get that hot here. the fans can do the job. 

{QUOTE]Nice big kitchen area well separated from the sleeping area so I can make coffee early in the morning without disturbing my wife, and the slide makes for a separate eating and living area without being cramped into a conventional RV dinette. I personally despise those.[/QUOTE]Ditto. I hung a curtain across the opening between the wall on the dinette side and the corner of the wardrobe on the door side. That also is nice for letting my wife sleep in.

Some folks dislike the wet bath but we find it not a problem at all, its not a space we spend any time in anyway. Other folks dislike the bed access but for us its fine, we wind up shifting sides once during the night, not a big deal. Plenty of storage, too much really, gotta watch the weight especially when hauling water boondocking.

No problem with the wet bath for us. We don't mind it. I'm sure we could carry even more, but weight would also be a concern.

As for converting the 179 to a full on boondocking setup, there are a few things required. First, you need a lift kit and I reinforced my axle and went to higher capacity tires and wheels. 12V power points, 12V fans, 12V TV, and usb power points. Dual GC2 batteries. Small backup generator, converted to propane so no messing with gasoline. Easystart on the a/c. I've really not changed anything in the interior of the trailer at all, except getting a real mattress, I think FR did a great job as is.

If a lift kit is not already installed, it would be a good idea. We still have the 14" wheels but with LR-D tires. 12V power points and USB charging points are a must. I would say instead of dual GC2 batteries, go with a single 100A LiFePO4 if your budget can afford it. You would save about 90 lbs by doing so. As for generators, I just ordered a dual-fuel Firman 3200 generator from Costco for $779.99 plus sales tax, shipping was free. It is a bit larger and heavier than the Generac iX2000 I have been using, but I won't have to carry gasoline containers and it will run the AC with more extra capacity for other things.

I had big plans to convert to a mini split a/c, a high capacity 24V lithium battery system and big roof solar array, but am holding off as our use profile has changed (or will post quarantine). We used to live in  coastal NC and had to have a/c there but now that we live in the Appalachians I'm waiting to see if that is going to be needed. I doubt it, it doesn't really get that hot here. the fans can do the job.

Since I installed the Micro-Air EasyStart, I won't think about changing to a mini split. I don't think I could put enough solar on the roof of the RPod to be able to run the AC in any case. I did also purchase a single Renogy 100W solar suitcase for those times when there would be adequate sunlight and no need to run the air conditioner or other high-power appliances such as the convection-microwave.

Even with suspension modifications, the RP179 would by no means be a suitable overland vehicle. It still would need relatively smooth paved or unpaved roads. I would not want to challenge the structure with off-road driving. The No-Bo models are more suited for that purpose.

If you can't get in on the Costco deal, this is the one I purchased. I am very happy with it.

https://smile.amazon.com/ExpertPower-Rechargeable-2500-7000-lifetime-Applications/dp/B07X4Z8FML/ - https://smile.amazon.com/ExpertPower-Rechargeable-2500-7000-lifetime-Applications/dp/B07X4Z8FML/

I would really like to lift my 179 to be able to get into more off-road places and I have thought of several different things - taller spacers (I already have the Hood River edition), larger wheels, maybe even air bags. Ideally, it would be great to keep it low for highway driving and then be able to pump it up when going off road. I am not sure what can be done with the stock axle and I fear it could be cost prohibitive to replace the axle...although it could be the only way to also get larger wheels with larger than 15" rims. 

Any and all thoughts welcome. 

Oh, and, offgrid, how did you reinforce you axle?

A couple of reasons: it will raise the center of gravity which will increase the tendency for the trailer to sway. It will also increase the load on the trailer frame at the axle attachment location. If you hit a bump there is a lever action trying to push the wheels up and backward which has to be resisted by the frame which gets pushed up at the back of the riser bracket and down at the front. There is at least one known case where a frame has been bent at that point, it is only a 4x2x0,1 inch tube and pretty marginal for the loads it has to carry to start with. If you do lift it I would suggest reinforcing the frame at the same time. 

Originally posted by Scottalot I would really like to lift my 179 to be able to get into more off-road places and I have thought of several different things - taller spacers (I already have the Hood River edition), larger wheels, maybe even air bags.

I have an axle riser kit and removed the tongue jack and the rear stabilizer jacks, giving me a lot of ground clearance and possibility for articulation, and despite my best judgement, I took my 171 on some very nasty trails last year...trust me, the way the r-pod bucks and shakes and bounces and wiggles, I never wanna do that again.

Crap inside was scattered and tossed all over. Cabinet doors were open and hinges were bent and busted. Everything in the fridge was tossed, shaken, mixed, broken, busted, spilled, and stirred. I did not plan on doing it that time, but other campers leading the way had assured me it was doable. Note to self: Walk the trail first next time!

I'm pretty sure you plan on ignoring this advice, I can tell by your post. So...I'll volunteer to "hold your beer and watch this!"

NEXT!

Has anyone inspected the structure of the NoBo trailers?  I wouldn't assume that its significantly more robust than the rPod line without taking a close look. FR is clearly very conscious of image and rather less of substance, so it could be for show. There are purpose built off road trailers from other builders. 

As for the axle reinforcement, unless there were many trailers on the road with reinforced axles and none of them failed you really can't know statistically that it helps.  I'm certain that it helps because the structural analysis says it does. Structural engineers build bridges and buildings all the time based on those calcs, if its good enough for them....

Some of the pictures of the NoBo trailers show them in off-road situations. The ground clearance is definitely higher than that of the RPods. This may help:

https://wanderusliving.com/geo-pro-vs-no-boundaries-camper-the-best-boondocking-trailer/ - https://wanderusliving.com/geo-pro-vs-no-boundaries-camper-the-best-boondocking-trailer/

Marketers doing photo shoots can stage anything anywhere. 

With all due respect StephenH, that article is worthless. The authors are towing a geoPro 19 FBS which has an dry weight of 3075 lbs and a GW of 4400 with a Jeep with a 3500 lb tow capacity. In my opinion they are an accident waiting to happen and are either idiots or worse are shilling for FR in a way that puts others at risk. I wouldn't believe a word they say.

If anyone is considering a GeoPro or a NoBo for actual rough road boondocking use they should take a very close look at its wheels, tires, axle(s), frame, floor, and interior construction. Not saying that a NoBo or GeoPro can't go offroad, just that you can't assume it can just because FR markets it that way.  Caveat emptor, you get what your pay for, etc....

In the topic and world of transportation, trailers, and the like: duals are side-by-side wheels, but axles, one in front of the other, are tandems. 

GOAL: My intention is far from going overlanding or through the Rubicon. Although that sounds great, I know R-Pods are not the unit for it. Further, from experience, I take the point about the Pod contents getting yard-saled inside on rough roads, and I do appreciate the structural challenges and I do like getting the best MPG possible. However, the problem I am trying to solve for is getting stuck, scraping, or having to back out or turn around due to a simple wash or swale that has just the right (wrong) angles for me to get through, especially when the rest of the road is totally passable. Really frustrating, especially when it's just a matter of a couple of inches.

SOLUTION: Raise the Pod permanently, or better, be able to raise the Pod when needed. After reviewing your comments and some of your past mods, here's my latest thought. Starting with reenforcing the frame section above the axle connection and across to the opposite frame rail (basically cross-brace or box in that whole area), how about then building in some outriggers, similar to StephenH's slideout-floor-supports, mounted above the axle that could be used to push against so that a pneumatically actuated airbag could be mounted between the outrigger and the end of the axle swing arm (attached somehow). Then, when you come to a place where you need more clearance, you just pump up the bags and through you go. How about that?

Now, I have in mind some pitfalls and challenges with this idea, but I would love to hear those of this distinguished panel first :)    

BTW, I'm not a fan of the NoBo interior layouts and I personally think using that much space for a camping bathroom is a waste. Lucky for me, my wife agrees...we love our Pod.

Finally, I couldn't find photos of axle or frame mods from anyone and would greatly appreciate forwarding of those, if you don't mind. THANKS!

Have you actually experienced the scenario you're concerned about? I never have. 

 If you really want to do what you're suggesting I think you should consider swapping the torsion axle for a leaf spring axle, not expensive at all and you could get a higher rated one and put air bladders between that and the rpod frame to adjust the ride height. One benefit of a leaf spring axle is that it doesn't transfer torque to the frame during bump loads like a torsion axle does and it has two frame attachment locations, much easier on the frame overall.  It would be an interesting project for sure. 

With all due respect StephenH, that article is worthless. The authors are towing a geoPro 19 FBS which has an dry weight of 3075 lbs and a GW of 4400 with a Jeep with a 3500 lb tow capacity. In my opinion they are an accident waiting to happen and are either idiots or worse are shilling for FR in a way that puts others at risk. I wouldn't believe a word they say.

It is some people's opinions, not a professional evaluation. I thought it interesting to see that some people are taking them off-road, although I agree that they are taking risks towing with that limited a tow vehicle. The point is that the NoBo is better suited than the RPod for such off-road situations.

If anyone is considering a GeoPro or a NoBo for actual rough road boondocking use they should take a very close look at its wheels, tires, axle(s), frame, floor, and interior construction. Not saying that a NoBo or GeoPro can't go offroad, just that you can't assume it can just because FR markets it that way.  Caveat emptor, you get what your pay for, etc....

Again, agreed! One should look and evaluate whether any model from any manufacturer will meet the desired needs. One point stated in the article was that units even better suited for off-road (Black Series and Brüder) cost twice as much.

So yes the words matter and its really annoying and ignorant that they don't know the difference between tandem and dual. But the numbers matter more. 

Consider that they are actually stating in writing and documenting with photos that they are engaging in an illegal act. Towing a trailer with an improperly equipped vehicle. Their GeoPro has a listed tongue weight of 413 lbs. The Wrangler max tongue weight is 350 lbs. That is negligent behavior on their part. 

With this kind of nonsense all over the web its no wonder we constantly have folks on this forum trying to tow trailers with inadequate tow vehicles.  We were better off in the pre-internet days when it cost real $$ to get published. That screened out most of this kind of nonsense. If I was the web police I'd shut down that website and confiscate their laptop. 

In fact they do know. They eventually concluded that the Wrangler was inadequate and swapped the GeoPro for a class A:

https://wanderusliving.com/we-bought-a-used-class-a-for-full-time-rving-sold-our-geo-pro-19fbs-travel-trailer/ - https://wanderusliving.com/we-bought-a-used-class-a-for-full-time-rving-sold-our-geo-pro-19fbs-travel-trailer/

So now they have documented that they know they had an inadequate TV but neglected to amend the original article to clarify that. Oops...

As I didn't like the layouts of the Geo-Pros and No-Bo's along with their inflated price, we settled on the Sonoma for the following reasons:  1. It has a full bath that I preferred for my old bones.  2. We liked the larger refrigerator and 3 burner stove that was not available on many of the other trailers in the weight class in which we were looking.  3.  The frame and wheel construction appeared to be more able to handle bumpy road conditions with I-beam frame rails, a non-cantilevered axle with leaf springs , a relatively short tongue, and higher ground clearance than we were able to achieve with our lifted 172.  4.  A 7' wide reasonably roomy interior not needing mirror extensions for our truck and no slide out which can be a source of leaks and other problems [at least one would glean from the pages of this forum].  5.  It was several thousand dollars less costly than the comparable r-Pod 192, likely due to brand name inflation since the trailers were nearly identical in other respects.

So far, the heavy I-beam chassis has worked well for our camping this summer.  We have been able to manage some pretty bumpy roads and have had no issues frame or suspension issues.  We're off again in a few hours for more Sierra Nevada camping.  So far there are no fires in the area where we'll be staying, but that can change in a heartbeat.  

Yes, I have actually experienced not being able to continue down an otherwise very passable trail or road do to dip or hump that would have the back end drag - stabilizer jacks removed. One time, I had to back down and was lucky to find a tiny wash on the side of the road to barely back into, which still required a 27 point turn to get turned around. Oh, and it was night time in a wind storm. A fun adventure in the end, but a bit hair raising, and all of which could have been avoided with a little extra height.