WOW! Check Your Stabilizer Jack Screws - see this!
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Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=13418
Printed Date: 19 Jun 2025 at 4:26pm
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Topic: WOW! Check Your Stabilizer Jack Screws - see this!
Posted By: Wirat
Subject: WOW! Check Your Stabilizer Jack Screws - see this!
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2020 at 4:08pm
I was looking under my 2019 R-Pod 191 yesterday and I noticed the front driver side stabilizer jack only had ONE screw holding it in! It appeared the other screws had jiggled out, but upon closer inspection, I saw the screw heads had actually snapped off. I went around to check the tightness of the remaining jacks and the heads from three other screws on the front passenger side jack came off in my hand leaving only one screw holding that one on.... Good thing I looked, all I could imagine was that last screw giving way just as we were going 60 mpg down the highway. It looks to me like they used a power drill to insert the #14 self-tapping screws at the factory and over torqued them, causing a fissure that rusted through allowing the head of the screws to snap off. Three came off in my hand using a small 3/8 inch open end wrench as I was checking the tightness. I figured OK, they used these zinc #14 screws with washers, so I went and bought all stainless #14 with stainless washers and adding stainless lock washers. Figured it would be a simple drill-out of the old screws, but nooooo....cobalt drill bit sits there and spins until battery in my cordless drill dies!!! Such a cheap, cheesy installation but yet so hard to repair.     If anyone has had to deal with this, I would like to hear how you completed the repair. I plan to drill out the old screws (if I can find a bit that works) or drill new holes and replace the #14 screw hardware they used with all stainless steel and add a lock washer. Not sure what would be a better way. I also tried a screw extractor and that didn't even make a dent. I just hope going easy on the next cobalt bit will work. |
Replies:
Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2020 at 6:39pm
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Same issue here when I installed Sav-A-Jacks. If they overtorqued they may have made existing holes to big for another #14 screw. Those screws don't work well anyway. They use them a lot for attaching to frame. I have moved the screw holes and used bolts versus machine screws. ------------- Mike Carter 2015 178 " I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability." |
Posted By: Wirat
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2020 at 7:53pm
| @mcarter , how do you attach the Sav-A-Jacks to the trailer frame? I would rather use bolts with nuts and washers for these, but the frame on the R-Pod is tubular and you can't bolt up through it. I checked out the Sav-A-Jacks package and it looks like they come with #14 self-tapping screws also. |
Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2020 at 10:11am
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The original stabilizers on our R-179 were welded on. We haven't switched to sav-a-jack yet, but when we do, we will have to take off the originals with an angle grinder. ------------- bp 2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River 2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost |
Posted By: seafans
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2020 at 3:49pm
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I replaced the stabilizer on my 180 with the next higher quality jacks. On the 180 the top of the stabilizer are welded on also. Take the two thru bolts and nuts off of the top pieces of the jack and leave the welded part on the trailer. Remove the top bracket off the new stabilizers,using the new hard ware install them on the existing welded on upper brackets. Lees work and no grind and welding. |
Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2020 at 5:24pm
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Wirat,
You are correct. I did bolt my tank cross braces to frame. When I applied the sav-a-jacks, it allowed me to use new holes and I ensured I drilled appropriate pilot holes and did not overtorque. They have held up for 3 years. Mine were also spot welded but the weld was not a big deal to remove, the weld was shabby and did not require grinding. ------------- Mike Carter 2015 178 " I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability." |
Posted By: Wirat
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2020 at 6:31pm
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Good to hear it's doable. I spent all day drilling and re-mounting the front two scissor jacks. I used all stainless hardware, added a lock washer to each and used a hand ratchet to tighten them down so as to not over torque the screws. It was soooo much harder to drill out the snapped screws than I expected.  no bueno. Lying on my back using a Cobalt bit with oil was going nowhere and it felt like I was like trying to dig out of Alacatraz with a spoon! My arms feel like boiled spaghetti now, I sure hope it was worth the effort. The Save-A-Jacks are definitely in my future if I have any more problems.    |
Posted By: ribet
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2020 at 8:16pm
| As usual where was this trailer built? East or West coast? Inquiring minds want to know! |
Posted By: Wirat
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2020 at 3:54pm
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Well I have not formally researched it, but it was originally sold by a dealer in Sebring, Florida and it's not a Hood River edition, etc. so I'm confident to say East coast. Maybe they could call it "Flatlander" edition...
How do you identify that and does it make a difference?
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Posted By: poohbill
Date Posted: 12 May 2020 at 9:41pm
Indiana is definitely “Flatlander” though hardly coastal. Having driven the Hood River Edition around Idaho, Oregon and Washington though, I consider the R-Pod a Pavement Edition. The seals, cabinets and general materials, construction and design choices, combined with the construction sloppiness, tell me not to go gravel. But I do anyway and sympathize with your experience on the bolting.Did you try punching the broken body through, then going with a #12?
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Posted By: rpod190
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2022 at 1:37am
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I have ez-outed several and replaced. It seems like this occurs when the load is uneven on the jacks. ;( I always carry spare self tapping screws in case of a load shift onto a jack or something unexpected happens. ------------- Wynnster |