Hi,

I am looking for a small travel trailer for extended weekend trips for me and my gf. Some of my priorities are weight (which I'll get to in a minute) and construction/durability/maintenance.

The R-Pod seems to be built pretty well compared to similar models. I definitely want something aluminum framed with vacuum bonded fiberglass sidewalls. From my limited understanding, the fiberglass roof of the r-pod should be less maintenance or at least easier to maintain over a typical rubber roof. If any of this information is wrong, please correct me.

I am still on the fence between selecting a floor plan with or without a slide. The extra space would sure be nice but at least with my current TV, weight savings is at a premium. On top of that, I also think a slide out is just another mechanical item that could be easy built incorrectly at the factory. I am also concerned about it breaking or leaking and the seals around the slide are another item that needs constant attention to ensure no issues.

I've also heard stories of mosquitoes and such coming into the trailer from the bottom of the slide when it is extended. It's also my understanding that the insulation is not all that great on the slide outs. I'll be camping in 100+ temps at least a few times a year so this is also a concern. Finally, I am considering renting this trailer when not in use and this is one less thing someone can break.

I know it probably seems like I've made up my mind on not getting a slide out floor plan, but unfortunately those floor plans are the only ones with a dry bath which is something I was really wanting. The additional floor space would probably bring in a few more dollars if I rented it or at least get me more bookings. I'd like to hear your opinions on this.

Finally, my TV is a regular cab Toyota Tacoma with 2.7L 4cyl. Unfortunately I sold my F-150 a year or so ago because I didn't think I would be towing anything.

The factory towing capacity is 3500lb w/ 350 hitch weight. When I bought the truck it came with a class IV hitch and 4-pin electric. The Tacomas with factory hitch is rated for 500lbs hitch weight and 650lbs if Tow prep package is installed. The hitch nor the tow prep package was an option for the 4cyl Tacomas (I'm guessing because of its limited power).

My Tacoma is equipped with a manual transmission and 4.56 axle gears. The factory axle gears are 3.307 so these lower gears should give me more towing capacity (at least from an engine power perspective) and with the manual transmission I do not have to worry about it hunting for the right gear as some automatic do.

All this being said, I've done some calculations to get as best an estimate as possible of the max towing weight (including cargo, water, battery, etc.) and I am pushing the limit but still under.

Obviously this isn't ideal but all things considered, if I added a weight distributing hitch to make sure everything was balanced... how do you think this would handle? I plan on most of my camping to be at sites with full hookup so a lot of the weight I calculated in will not be there. Below are the weights and calculations. Floor model is RP-171

Number two, Forest River and most RV manufacturers exclude rental trailers from consumer warranty coverage. If it is financed, they will want to know you are renting it out, and you will need commercial insurance, because regular insurance wont cover this. 

You might want to look into a pop-up tent trailer, and keep it for your own use.

Regardless of your towing limits, IF you decide to get a new tow vehicle, DEFINITELY plan on an R Pod with a slide!! We owned a 173 for almost 6 years and loved it.  then the 179 bug hit us and we bought a 179 that has a slide. What a difference!! We have not had any issues with the slide.  It gives more room inside and makes the unit much more livable and comfortable-particularly when confined due to bad weather or night time.  I also was concerned about the slide, having read some horror stories.  However, I think the new models have been engineered so well that those problems are in the past.

We have visited both east and west R Pod factories and watched the slides being constructed and installed.  I have no doubts that the slides are well made, well engineerred and well installed.  I would not hesitate to buy an R Pod with a slide.

do you get the idea that we love our slide?

Good luck!!

Vann

Can you please elaborate on this? I see this as a typical response when responding to tow capacity questions but the numbers I've calculated are not 'dry' numbers. I've generously calculated cargo, water, gas, batteries, LP, etc. as you can see in my original post. In fact, the cargo carrying capacity of the trailer + the dry weight is less than the towing capacity of the vehicle so I'm not sure how I will blow right past it.

Again, I'm very new to this but have tried to calculate everything I will be pulling in both the truck and the trailer. So can you please let me know what else I might be missing?

By the time you get it loaded, the hitch weight is likely to be above 350 lbs. The 4 cylinder engine is naturally aspirated. If you were only going to be towing on relatively level roads at low altitude, you might be okay. Throw a few thousand feet into the mix and you would very quickly find that the 3500 lb. tow rating is overrated. NA engines loose power as they gain altitude. If it were turbocharged (I had an Escape that had a 2L 4Cyl Ecoboost engine with the same tow rating), you would be better off. As it is, somebody probably installed the hitch since, as you say, it was not a factory option for the 4 cyl engine. Having the hitch does not increase the tow rating. There are more changes such as transmission cooler and (usually) heavier-duty alternator and possibly suspension parts that go into a factory tow package.

On top of the weight, you need to consider wind resistance. My Nissan Frontier which has a V6 sometimes struggles with a strong headwind. With a wimpier 4 Cyl engine, it would be nearly impossible to go down an Interstate at 60 mph with a 20+ mph headwind. The factor you need to consider is "frontal area." How much work is needed to push the truck with the trailer through the air. Resistance is not linear, but logarithmic. That is why a pop-up is better for your situation. Perhaps you should look into something like an http://aliner.com/campers/lxe/ - ALiner . If on the other hand, you do decide you want to go with an RPod, you will most certainly find that you will be wanting to upgrade tow vehicles very quickly.

We now have a V6 Tacoma (with the factory tow package). It struggles a bit at high elevation, but nothing like that 2.7L 4-cylinder.

However. All things considered, the EcoBoost in our F-150 laughs at high altitude as if it doesn't exist.

Looking at your numbers, I think your added 811 lbs is not conservative enough. I have dual GC2 batteries and a single propane tank. Dual GC2's weigh in at about 130 lbs (not 90), so that would make your 811 about 850.  My 179 weighs about 950 over dry weight when I fill my fresh water tank. And I try to carry minimal tools and "stuff" in the trailer. Things still add up. For example, 90% likely you will want to get rid of the crappy OEM mattress and get a higher quality one which is going to add 20-30 lbs. Bottom line, as you obviously plan to boondock, I'd suggest you plan on around 900-950  over dry weight, which not coincidentally puts your trailer right around its max gross weight.

On to your tow vehicle. The smaller weight distribution hitches don't weigh 100 lbs, more like 60-70 or so, so you can save a little bit there. Curb weight is supposed to include a full fuel tank so there's a little more savings. I suspect that you'll have more than 200 lbs in the truck bed though. If you're boondocking you'll either need a generator and fuel (say 100 lbs) or a solar module (say 20-25 lbs), or both. There will be other stuff too. Firewood, a grill, the list goes on.  So maybe that washes out. Since you already have the Taco you could load it and take it through a public scale and then you'd know what it really weighs. 

Putting it all together I think you'll be maybe be couple of hundred lbs under your GCWR. That's not a comfortable margin but you could try it (driving very judiciously) and see how it feels. 

Where you will have more of a problem is on tongue weight. The propane tank, dual batteries and fresh water tank will probably roughly double your tongue weight, Mine did. If you're really limited to 350 lbs then that is a problem and its not solved by a wdh. The hitch transfers weight to the TV front axle and to the trailer axle but it does not increase your tongue weight rating. If you're right and the tongue weight has been derated for power reasons then maybe you're OK. I'd try asking on one of the Toyota forums and see if anyone there knows the real story. 

Personally, I'm not worried about your 4 cyl engine. Those things are bullet proof. I've had several over the years including a couple of class B RV's, with both manual and auto trannys.  I think that will be fine as long as you're not in a hurry. If you're in hot country you might want a higher capacity radiator, I did that in my class B back in the 80's when I lived in Phoenix and I could go straight up to Flagstaff at 7000 feet on a 115 degree afternoon with no sign of overheating. 

 

Thank you for the thorough response. I actually do NOT plan on boondocking often, if at all. I just tried to add the max amount of stuff for worse case scenario. I didn't know curb weight included gas but I did just read somewhere that it was suppose to include 150lb driver..  but that also said empty tank... who knows. As you suggested I may check on a taco forum for clarification.

I am well aware that the hitch alone does not add any towing capacity (would actually reduce it slightly due to the additional weight) but the point I was trying to make which you've hinted to is that the other models with a hitch have much higher tongue weights. This leads me to believe that it is either limited to 350 off the bumper or rated that way because of power.

The 4.56 gears will give me a big advantage when it comes to towing over the 3.307 at the expense of fuel mileage and rpms. For example (see below) the F-150 towing capacity is significantly increased as shorter gears are used.

The thought is that the hitch will give me a little leeway on the tongue weight and the gearing will allow me to tow at or near the max capacity without lugging the engine too much.

Just as an FYI, the towing package include class IV hitch, trailer wiring, oil cooler, trans cooler (no applicable in my situation) , heavy duty battery and alternator.

I think what I am going to do is rent a local R-Pod and tow it around my town for a day to see how it handles before moving forward with anything.

I have an OBDII ScanGauge in my truck and its interesting to see (in digital readout) the extra horsepower needed just to pull my r-pod 171 down a flat road with no wind. When pulling a grade, the numbers go pretty high. And mine is a 390hp V-8 engine.

Renting one is an excellent idea. Take it up and down some grades, see if you're comfortable.  If you're not boondocking then that makes life easier. Keep it light,  don't fill the fresh water tank and don't get a dual battery setup or a second propane tank. Do consider getting a weight distribution hitch and using it for your test tow, you can always use it later on whatever trailer/tow vehicle you end up with. It won't give you "leeway" on your numbers but it will make your towing feel a whole lot better. 

Curb weight isn't supposed to include any people or cargo, 

Just for the record, the deuce and a half truck that won world war 2 for us carried enormous loads with only 104 hp so towing is more about gearing and ability to carry weight than it is about horsepower, as long as you're not in a hurry. My 83 Toyota class B (we used to call it the bloated tick, it had way more frontal area than an rpod) had the ubiquitous 22R engine. Made all of 97HP. On flat ground with no wind I could cruise at 60! The new 4 bangers are 159 hp. Veritable rockets in comparison.  Its all a matter of perspective and expectations.