Picked the 2015 up Sat morning. After reading here about other modifications I knew to look under the wet bath for a lack of bracing. Yep, FR supported the shower pan with 4 - 2x4's almost at each corner under some foam and a 1/2" piece of plywood which left the center(the place we will all stand) basically unsupported. 

The area in red is what needs more support and it is 11" by about 10":

Access to the area is through the storage under the left side dinette seat and a louvered vent cover under the bathroom door. There is not enough room to assemble a "T" shaped support, so I just cut a section of 3/4 plywood into a 11 x 5" rectangle, then cut two smaller sections for the pedestal and screwed those two together. I then slid the rectangle piece under the shower pan, held it up against under the pan then placed the pedestal under it. I had pre-drilled some holes in the rectangle and some angled holes in the base of the pedestal. By hand I screwed in all the screws(in red ovals) locking the both sections of wood in place:

That done, the next 'fix' is to remove the spare from the bump-out tent bed base and relocate it under the trailer. When the seller closed up the tent bed, we had a heck of a time getting the bed base to close properly...it was hitting the top inside lip of the camper and upon inspection I found it crooked and poorly aligned...most likely at the factory since there were no signs of sagging or stripped screws. 

More to come............

So I removed all the screws on the top of the piano hinge except the ones on each end:

I put a 2x4 and another small block of wood inside under the 'door' then removed the RH screw. this dropped the door about 1/4" so I pre-drilled the fiberglass to keep it from spider-webbing(there is an aluminium frame behind the glass) then replaced the screw. You can see the "witness mark" above the top corner of the hinge where it was originally installed:

then I pre-drilled the rest of the screws before screwing them back in. The result is a door that fits properly:

the green is foam to keep the ladder from scratching the side of the Pod:

I also replaced the head with a tall ceramic Thedford. It required changing the Pex plumbing water inlet configuration. 

https://allbatterysalesandservice.com/century-plastics-heavy-duty-battery-box-holds-2-6-volt-golf-cart-batteries-gce-g

Jacked up the pod:

Set up the Jack stands using 2x4's along the frame:

When I slid the riser in, this little self tapping screw they used for the wiring loom was in the way, preventing the riser from lining up. You may or may not have this issue, it just depends on the factory installation guy or gal:

After that is was just  drop the bolts and washers in and tighten them. The lug nuts are 19 mm and the riser bolts are 24mm or 15/16ths:

Deep sockets or extensions are needed to do the job along with a 24 mm / 15/16 wrench to tighten everything down. I did cut the zip tie on the axle which holds the brake wiring harness before starting, replacing it when done. 

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories_and_Parts/Lippert_Components/LC270682.html