The pictures show the window in cold weather mode with reflectix installed.  The wooden support makes putting the reflectix under the window shade much easier and should block cold air falling down the wall.  The reason the support along the wall is so long is because there is nothing but styrofoam in the wall where you want the table to be.

I was just looking at that ottoman this morning. I'd like to mount an inverter in that unused space but its a bit too small. You've given me an idea...

Originally posted by Cactus_Hawk Here are my table mods. Decided to re-build the existing ottoman to incorporate a table.  Got the idea from coffee tables that have a lift up top.  The new ottoman is an inch shorter than the old one but about 6 inches wider.  It needed to be wider to hold the arms that allow it to move up in position.  I made the arms, table top,and box myself...as you can see, I’m not a steel worker or furniture maker:)I still need to make a new cushion for it.

Wow! That is spectacular! I like it!

I would like to see more details for sure, such as the arm mechanism inside the new ottoman and under the table.

I would be interested in reading how this performs in actual use also.

Here are some additional photos.  You can buy arms off of different places like Amazon but the tallest I could find was about 11” and I needed at least 18” in order to comfortably slide in under the table so I just made them myself.  Built a few prototypes out of cardboard first to make sure I understood the function and dimensions.  The new ottoman is just 2”x3”, 1”x1” and oak veneer plywood.

We never expect to have anyone sleep in that area.  My wife telecommutes sometimes though so it could be a nice compact workstation for her (if I make the extension leg removable) as well as a larger dining area when extended. 

I can see replicating something very similar and at the same time building in my inverter and providing ventilation for it. Maybe also a slide in seat back for her to have back support working?  It also solves my problem of having to flip the current table upside down on the bed  so it doesn't slide around while towing on windy roads. 

No real repair needed as there are only three small holes where the old screws went into the floor.  Can’t even see them unless you know exactly where they were...and even then it’s hard to find them.

Originally posted by StephenH One caveat on using Poplar for the top: It warps with changes in humidity! I made a table and will need to re-do the top as the boards warp. The one way I could fix it would be to cut the top into strips and reverse alternate ones, gluing them together with splines or biscuits to keep them from separating. That way, the tendency to warp would be mitigated by grain not all running in the same direction.

Why not just use a decent veneer plywood? That would solve the warp issue, and you'd just have to trim the edges with a strip or matching veneer?

Like the idea very much BTW.

Plywood would be the easier way to go and I have been considering using it to replace the warped poplar top. I was thinking of using a thin trim strip around the edges which could be poplar or other wood, possibly contrasting. That way, I would not have the plywood veneer edges to look at. It could also be an angle strip and then it would make a rim around the edges. That would work on the outsides, but not the place where they come together. I would not want a ridge down the middle of the table when it is set up.

Right now, I can't do anything about it since the table is in our R-Pod at the dealer's service department. It will probably be at up to five more weeks before we get it back.