I think you would have been Ok w/o the insect screens, water regulator, sway and weight distribution system. Usually you can get the dealer to throw in the sewer hose in the deal.
I think I found the start of a wasp nest inside my fridge compartment on my popup once and I never use anything to block the vents. If you want to be extra cautious you could just use a sheet of plastic taped over the vents when its in storage and take it off for the road and when in use (it stays too hot in there when the fridge is on). I bought a water pressure regulator years ago and found it cut the water pressure so much at most campgrounds that I couldn't use the shower when it was in place (my popup had a shower). Never used it again. Like the electric system, the water system at most campgrounds is at its limit and I don't think its something to worry about. My popup is very dangerous above 50 mph if the sway bar isn't in place. Same for my utility trailer when its loaded improperly. I've towed many other trailers and hands-down the 'pod is the most comfortable and stable trailer I've ever towed. The independent suspension and non-trailer tires along with the balance and air flow give it the comfort and stability. When I picked up my 'pod w/o a sway bar I figured I would have to drive home slowly and install one soon after. After a half-dozen trips last year I know now I'll never get one. I've been passed by 18-wheelers while going 70 downhill on a curve (just about the worst-possible case) and didn't get more than one small wiggle. Even intentionally jerking the wheel in those conditions barely gives me an issue. I'll be the first to admit that other factors like the distance of the ball from the rear axle on the tow vehicle and other tow vehicle factors could cause an issue with the same trailer on other vehicles, but many others have said that they find their 'pod is fine. But sway control is one of those things where if a few hundred gives you peace of mind on the road, go for it. Can only help. My popup was much heavier than the 'pod (right on 3500 lbs when loaded) and I was on the fence about getting a weight distribution system for it. Probably should have but got away with airbags on the tow vehicle instead. Definitely don't need it for the 'pod. But again, if a few hundred gives peace of mind... One thing I do recommend is to buy a cheap line tester and a Kill-a-watt. One of those plug-in testers that has the red/green/yellow lights. The tester will tell you if the campground outlet is wired correctly. Some aren't. The Kill-a-watt will tell you if the voltage is too high or too low - more than 127 or less than 110 and there is a problem. As I said before the electric systems are often overtaxed, especially on 95 degree days when every air conditioner is on. The voltage will sag and if you plug in below 110 you can damage electronics and A/C compressors. Use both items before you plug in, then keep the Kill-a-watt plugged in inside so you can keep an eye on it during the day when things can get low. You could just use a cheap volt meter but the Kill-a-watt lets you keep it plugged in all the time. You'll need to use one of the "hockey puck" adapters to test the 30 amp outlet with both things. Don't just test the 20 amp outlet next to the 30 amp outlet and assume that the 30 amp outlet is fine. One could be wired correctly and the other isn't, and one could have a bad connection giving you a low voltage when the other is fine. Test the 30 amp outlet (and the 20 if you are going to use it for something else).
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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