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So, I bought a Clamp-on amp meter!

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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=11417
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Topic: So, I bought a Clamp-on amp meter!
Posted By: Olddawgsrule
Subject: So, I bought a Clamp-on amp meter!
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 5:02pm
Just me ranting so please excuse, but any input will be appreciated.

First one I bought I brought back to the Big Box Store cause it wasn't reading even close..
How do I know this you may ask?
Well, I have a in-line amp reader on my garage solar that shows what is in-coming from the panels. Panels read 3.8a, meter showed 700ma. Ya, not even close.

So the new one from Amazon came in and I went out to test it. Question one, Am I doing it right?

Yup, I am. reading was within the range I expected. A little high than actual, but I'd rather that than lower.

Now, I'm under the belief (here's your chance to correct me) that positive side side will always be higher reads than negative. Why? Positive is feed and Negative will account for device losses. 
This does mean that there is no other source of power (like hooked up to 'shore' and charging the battery).

As always, input welcomed.




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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJduGeZNFgtptH67leItRFQ - Byways no Highways
2017 Tacoma
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=72408 - Truck Camper Build
2004 F150 My Overlander



Replies:
Posted By: TheBum
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 5:16pm
+ and - should be the same. Current never changes at any point in a circuit (except in parallel elements that divide and come together within the circuit), only voltage.

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Alan
2022 R-Pod 196 "RaptoRPod"
2022 Ram 1500 Lone Star 4x4
Three cats


Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 7:23pm
Originally posted by Olddawgsrule

ow, I'm under the belief (here's your chance to correct me) that positive side side will always be higher reads than negative. Why? Positive is feed and Negative will account for device losses.

I don't think it matters for your purposes but direct current actually flows from negative to positive.

TT


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2010 176
FJ Cruiser


Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 8:28pm
You need to be careful measuring current with a clamp-on meter.

Most of them need to be zero'd before you start. I check ours by letting it stabilize unclamped (wait for the numbers to stop jumping around. Then press the "zero" button. It should now show zero (plus or minus).

Then when you clamp on, you want the wire go through the "center" of the clamp, and as close to perpendicular as you can get it.

Once those two things have been done, you'll get your most accurate reading.

Oh, and congrats on the fancy tool! Wink


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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost


Posted By: Retiree-Pod
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 10:45am
Some clamp on ammeters are for AC only.  Check specs for DC capability.


Posted By: Olddawgsrule
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 4:10pm
Thanks folks once again! Your helping as I go through this.

So far I see this new meter as okay. Readings are close and probably close enough. And yes, this one is setup for DC read (main reason I bought it).

I've been on shore power for 3 days now. I do have my little heater running inside due to temps, so I am drawing a bit for shore. The batteries still got a charge up of which I'm happy to see. 1500w heater set of half and the batteries still charged.. I'm happy to see this.

Rest value on the batteries is spot on. Also happy to see this. The batteries are good!

The next test starts tomorrow. Draw downs.

I'll start a new thread for results, questions and help on what I see.


-------------
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJduGeZNFgtptH67leItRFQ - Byways no Highways
2017 Tacoma
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=72408 - Truck Camper Build
2004 F150 My Overlander



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