Fridge On Propane - Again.
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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=11236
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Topic: Fridge On Propane - Again.
Posted By: shicks
Subject: Fridge On Propane - Again.
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 2:28pm
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I have (and love) my 2014 178. Not so liking the Dometic RM8501 fridge. Worked great first couple of years. Now having trouble on propane. A couple of weeks ago I cleaned out the burner and orifice, which got the burner going. The fridge worked a weekend ago for 2 1/2 days boondocking. This past 2 days the fridge wouldn't cool, even though propane running. To answer questions:
Is there something to clean in the burner's flue? I found videos for cleaning the burner but not for anything with the flue. Any help well be sincerely appreciated. :-) ------------- RP 2014 178/Grand Cherokee/E2 WDH/Prodigy P3 Mods: Solar, lowes shelves, sink-out, dual batts/propane, steps, door window, EMS, glass stove top, tires, Microair EasyStart... it doesn't seem to end. |
Replies:
Posted By: JandL
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 2:51pm
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Besides cleaning the orifice I also replaced my pressure regulator with a 2 stage. The flame I get at the burner is larger and the flue gets hot. Here is my write up
http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=10624 - Dometic RM8501 refrigerator, my fix when on gas here is a picture of my flame  ------------- JandL 2013 Honda Ridgeline 2012 177 2 Paynes in a Pod |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 3:10pm
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To answer your question, yes you should clean the flue. Owners have reported many times that it fixed a problem, even though some noticed only very slight debris, some found it full of wasps nests..
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Posted By: shicks
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 8:28pm
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Thank you for your responses. I'm still not getting the propane to cool the fridge. 1. I took apart the burner assembly and cleaned the orifice and the burner. 2. I took the cap off the flue, removed the twist baffle and cleaned inside with pipe cleaner (was clean). 3. Testing afterwards showed a better (bigger) blue flame but the coil piping still not affected. 4. I replaced the regulator with a new 2 stage regulator. The flame seems to look good, blue and full. The flue (sheet metal enclosure) and the flue's tilted cap are hot. The fridge coil piping is hot right where it comes out of the flue assembly but nowhere else. Propane used to work perfectly. It does work on 120vac. And 12vdc ispresent and working (controls, gas solenoid working, etc.) Anyone have a photo of what the flame should look like? Anyone have any ideas what to try next? Thank you in advance. Has me stressed out as I do a lot of boondocking!
------------- RP 2014 178/Grand Cherokee/E2 WDH/Prodigy P3 Mods: Solar, lowes shelves, sink-out, dual batts/propane, steps, door window, EMS, glass stove top, tires, Microair EasyStart... it doesn't seem to end. |
Posted By: shicks
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 9:52pm
A photo of my flame after cleaning. (I know the set screw is not in yet) ------------- RP 2014 178/Grand Cherokee/E2 WDH/Prodigy P3 Mods: Solar, lowes shelves, sink-out, dual batts/propane, steps, door window, EMS, glass stove top, tires, Microair EasyStart... it doesn't seem to end. |
Posted By: JandL
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 11:43pm
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There is a inline filter in the gas tube and when I contacted Dometic about replacing it they said it was not removable. One I replaced my propane pressure regulator with a 2 stage everything worked as it should, so I didn't look at replacing the filter. The filter can be ordered. I looked at your picture and my flame and it has a lot more blue going up the flue. I don't think your flame getting hot enough.
------------- JandL 2013 Honda Ridgeline 2012 177 2 Paynes in a Pod |
Posted By: seafans
Date Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 7:53pm
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Propane leave a lot of deposits in the flue over natural gas. Some home improvement store might have different sizes of stainless steel bore brushes that could be used to clean the flue. Something you could check on, does some of the southern states pump Butane inlue of propane? |
Posted By: shicks
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 8:17am
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It's Fixed! I tried the brake cleaner spray treatment (Thank You JandL) on the mantel. I attacked the mantel/burner with the spray, blew it out with compressed air (can, don't have compressor), then sprayed again. Then filled a small bowl with the brake cleaner and soaked overnight. A final blow in the am, let it all dry and hooked it back up. I learned I really need to clean aggressively. Thank you for your help!! ------------- RP 2014 178/Grand Cherokee/E2 WDH/Prodigy P3 Mods: Solar, lowes shelves, sink-out, dual batts/propane, steps, door window, EMS, glass stove top, tires, Microair EasyStart... it doesn't seem to end. |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 8:46am
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GREAT!! small note... be careful about aggressively cleaning, it is easy to accidentally change the port size.. I did it once on a gas grill..
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Posted By: shicks
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2018 at 1:27pm
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Update: I was still having issues, each time a cleaning would fix it for awhile. I finally decided the two probes (starter and temp flame detector?) were too far into the flame. I backed then out just enough and it has been working even better since! The temp probe was halfway into the flame. Research suggests only the metal tip needs to be in flame. Everyone’s happy now. :-) ------------- RP 2014 178/Grand Cherokee/E2 WDH/Prodigy P3 Mods: Solar, lowes shelves, sink-out, dual batts/propane, steps, door window, EMS, glass stove top, tires, Microair EasyStart... it doesn't seem to end. |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2018 at 2:14pm
Great to hear..  Cold beer rocks.
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Posted By: shicks
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2018 at 7:42am
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Another update: The 120vac stopped working for the fridge and the burner assembly started rusting making it difficult to keep clean. That meant a $400 control board and $100+ for the burner assembly. So I decided to chuck it and get a new RM8505. This is same size as the default RM8501 but has the auto change over from 120vac to Propane (and back). The burner assembly is different, hopefully better. Expensive replacement but I'm happy with it so far. ------------- RP 2014 178/Grand Cherokee/E2 WDH/Prodigy P3 Mods: Solar, lowes shelves, sink-out, dual batts/propane, steps, door window, EMS, glass stove top, tires, Microair EasyStart... it doesn't seem to end. |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2018 at 7:55am
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Did you do the swap out yourself? Dealing with getting fridges in and out of the doorway can be an issue on many rigs..
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Posted By: shicks
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2018 at 8:15am
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I swapped it out myself. It fits through the door easily (with a helper), with fridge door out so can continue into the opening without turning it (backed the fridge into the camper to the opening). I added insulation to the side and top walls of the opening. Challenges: 1. A trim on the bottom rear of the opening helps keep fridge steady but getting the rear "legs/pads" of the fridge over it is tricky. 2. Figuring out how to grab it while pushing into place is important. I broke a brace that supports the control facia (don't grab it). Luckily the old fridge had the same brace and I swapped it out. 3. the seal that prevents backdraft doesn't seal very well after install. Used duct tape to seal it up behind the fridge. 4. the install screw holes on the door edge were not drilled out. Had to pull the fridge out over that trim piece again to drill them. Nice not having to remember to switch the power. And not worrying when power or gen go out. ------------- RP 2014 178/Grand Cherokee/E2 WDH/Prodigy P3 Mods: Solar, lowes shelves, sink-out, dual batts/propane, steps, door window, EMS, glass stove top, tires, Microair EasyStart... it doesn't seem to end. |