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Topic ClosedDon't ignore your bearings!

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hogone View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Don't ignore your bearings!
    Posted: 14 May 2013 at 10:00am
In between inspection and repacking of the bearings, is it a good idea to squirt some grease in the zerk, or is this not necessary?  And if so, how much?
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Anthony Valenzano View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2013 at 10:40am
my 2 cents: Zerk fittings are a bad for modern bearing assemblies.  Squeezing too much grease into them can force grease around the seal and once the grease around the seal is dissolved, allow a path for water intrusion.  Zerk fittings are from a time when seals didn't even exist and you had to squeeze in grease on a daily basis to keep out water.  They are still used on joints that don't have bearings and/or don't have seals, like on tractors.  Those zerk fittings are probably on there for when that axle is used in boats, boats are a little different because you splash hot bearings into water and make steam, which easily dissolves grease.  I don't think there is a single zerk fitting on modern cars.

I just repack - and I'll check it again in a couple years.  As a reference, I have a cargo trailer with the same type of bearings.  I haven't touched them in ten years and they still run fine.  I'm sure they are due for service, but gives you an idea how long they can last if they don't get water in them.  If the seal does break you may only have a couple of months before they are shot.  

The best thing you can do for your bearings, after a repack, is just get in the habit of putting your hand on the hubs when you stop for gas.  This is one time when you can actually kick the tire to see if the bearings are tight enough as well.  As for temperature, they should be slightly elevated in temperature, but not burning hot.  If they are burning hot, get to the nearest place for repair.  If they seem warmer than usual, it might be time to service them when you get home.  It's a little harder to tell, because the R-pods have that plastic cover on the hubs.
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Goose View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2013 at 1:59pm
Anthony you are right on about every time that you stop for gas put a hand on the tire and the hub to check the temp. After a few times out it is easy to tell what is normal and what might be a problem. A warmer than normal hub could be bearing or a brake that might be dragging. An under inflated tire can also add heat to the hub. Goose
Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee
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Thinker View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2013 at 5:44pm
Originally posted by Anthony Valenzano

I re-greased my bearings on my 2010 yesterday.  They were in very good shape.  No signs of rust at all.  I was surprised at how loose the castle nut was.  I wouldn't even say it was finger tight.  So I'm glad I looked at it.  There might have been enough slack to start some wobble.  Normally when I do bearings, I tighten them good with a wrench, at which point the wheel won't turn, then I back them off until the wheel spins freely, then back it off until I can insert the pin.  



That is a good rule of thumb on the castle nut.
Tow Vehicle: 2013 Pathfinder 4WD R-POD Model 171
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Craneman View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2013 at 2:00pm
OK OK OK thanks for the reminder. I noticed what looked like road tar on my left wheel wheel it wasn't. I pulled the wheel and ended up replacing bearings and the bad seal. Haven't even used it yet. Shure glad it didn't go bad when bringing it home thanks again for the reminder.
                          Moe
Jo and Gary, 2010-174,2011 F150

Jo and Gary
2010 174
2011 Ford 150



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