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Topic ClosedParasitic draw from fridge This is with the fridge

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Jeremy Skinner View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Parasitic draw from fridge This is with the fridge
    Posted: 26 May 2021 at 10:18pm
We keep ending up with a dead battery. It’s been quite a journey to figure out what is going on. It turns out that our charging cable from the tow vehicle had a blown fuse, so we were not charging as we drove. That is now fixed.  However the battery is still going dead after sitting for about  24 hours. The battery has been tested and pronounced good by the local auto parts store.  So, something else is also wrong, it appears.  

After looking at YouTube I ran a test for parasitic draw, and it showed we are losing .26 A somewhere. By pulling the fuses one of the time we isolated the refrigerator circuit. This is with the fridge turned completely off. I’m not really sure what the next move should be. Anybody out there have good ideas for me? Thanks so much, in advance.

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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2021 at 7:58am
0.26 amps is roughly in the normal range of parasitic loads in an rpod. That's only about 6 amphours a day or around 5% of battery capacity assuming a healthy battery. If your battery has been completely discharged more than once or twice it isnt holding a charge anymore and needs to be replaced. Be sure you get your new battery fully charged which your tow vehicle can't do. Plug into ac and let your on board charger charge it for at least 24 hours. Then check your parasitic loss again.
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campman View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2021 at 8:41am
Hello Jeremy, it sounds like you have done a good job of troubleshooting your electrical drain issue!

+1 to OG, it does sound like the battery is toasted (I know you stated it was tested, but it can still happen). If it is a wet battery ( as in has the caps you can remove to check and top up with distilled water when needed), has it been maintained properly.

I know I probably don't need to ask but when troubleshooting everything has to be looked at and verified as to serviceability, especially the easiest things to check and verify.

So, sorry if I am asking a silly question as you didn't state it in your post. Is your battery a purpose-built deep cycle battery and not a deep cycle/starting battery designed for marine use...or even worse in this application, a starting battery for a vehicle?

I have asked this question before, and as they never came back to say or further troubleshoot their problem maybe that was their problem all along. We will never know. :-)

Good luck and we look forward to a successful conclusion to your electrical issue...or an update if further issues are discovered.

Andy

Hmm, just thinking before posting...do you have a battery disconnect switch for when your TT is stored? That can save your battery from a premature end (due to these same parasitic loads). For long storage times it is best to remove the battery and charge regularly so it is ready for the following camping season.

     
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podwerkz View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2021 at 8:59am
These things are poorly designed in this regard, every travel trailer (with a battery and phantom loads) should have a battery disconnect switch as factory equipment. 

A couple of other items to look at are the USB ports, if you have those, and the LP detector. I installed an ON-OFF switch on my LP detector (Let the safety nannies speak out, you know who you are!)

You can install a battery cut-off switch as I did, you can install a small solar panel on the roof for maintaining the battery, as I did, or you can leave the trailer (or the battery) hooked up to shore power, as I sometimes do. 
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campman View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2021 at 9:33am
Agreed, podwerkz.

Leaving the TT plugged in if possible, a solar panel to maintain the battery is also a great way if you plugging it in isn't possible.

The battery cut off switch is one that I think they are now installing from factory as the 192 we are waiting for has one in all the demonstration videos I've seen.

It is all dependent on the condition, construction and Maintenance of the battery as to its longevity...usually. Sometimes though, things can fail just because they were junk to begin with.

Andy


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Jeremy Skinner View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2021 at 3:58pm
Hi Everyone-

Thanks so much for your input.  The info that .26 may be a normal level of parasitic draw is very helpful.  I saw something online saying it should not be above .05 A, but that was for a car not a camper.  

A bit more info:  This is a 2021 171 purchased in January.  It does have a disconnect switch, which I sometime forget to use. The battery is the one that came with the Pod, a Duracell deep cycle which was apparently manufactured in 12/20.  With the disconnect switch turned off it has held its charge for about 40 hours or so, currently showing 12.3 v.

We're taking off in the AM, so I guess we'll see how it goes.  We're leaving with a full battery, it does charge now while we drive, and we have a 120 W solar panel which we can use to charge it while we're stopped.  I imagine we'll be OK.

If we keep losing charge, then I guess we'll try a new battery.

thanks again.  This forum has been extremely helpful in getting us started with our Pod and I appreciate all those who have shared their knowledge and opinions.




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campman View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2021 at 4:18pm
The only thing that I can think of at this point is something you are already watching, and that is the serviceability if your battery.

A fully charged battery should be about 12.7 12.8 volts (give or take) when it is fully charged and then rested to get a good reading. Your battery is indicating a pretty deep discharge at 12.3...but you are all over it...12.2 volts indicates it is at 50% discharge, the normal maximum you want to take a deep cycle battery down to before recharging.

So, there you go...I would change that battery out as you head put of town so it won't be a problem when you stop for the night (or in the night, possibly).

Have a great and safe trip!

Andy
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'16 F150 5.0 4X4 w/factory tow pkg
'21 RP192
"If the women don't find you handsome...at least let them find you handy!"
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2021 at 5:24pm
My apologies if I'm wrong but I'm getting the impression that you have been relying on the tow vehicle alternator and the solar module for charging. Those sources can be used to maintain a charged battery but won't really assure your battery is fully charged to begin with, at least not without a very long period charging with no load on the battery.

Try connecting to shore power and getting your battery fully charged using the on board charger. Then be frugal in your energy use and see how that goes.

Most people camping without electricity for more than a night or two wind up with a dual battery system, one battery usually isn't enough. So now might be a good time to consider that. I'd recommend two 6v golf cart batteries in series if you plan a lot of off grid camping.
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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2021 at 6:23pm
If you are already at 12.3 volts if appears the battery is not holding charge as others above have already pointed out a fully charged 12v battery at rest should read 12.72v or better.

If possible put on a 2 amp trickle charge for 24-48 hours take a reading and then wait 24 hours and take another reading (disconnected from the rpod) if battery is good there should be no difference in those two readings.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 10:40am
Shore power works great
Check convertor per manufacturer everything checks out ok. 
Switch to battery get low or no power. Hit light or lift and might get squawk in radio. 
Tested battery - full power. Installed new battery same thing happens. 
 Checked all exposed wire connections. 
Acts like a short or cross wire??  
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