R-pod Owners Forum Homepage

This site is free to use.
Donations benefit a non-profit Girls Softball organization

Forum Home Forum Home > R-pod Discussion Forums > Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed: SLO-Pod 180 mods, John&Sue
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Calendar   Register Register  Login Login

Topic ClosedSLO-Pod 180 mods, John&Sue
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 45678 10>
Author
Message
  Share Topic Share Topic  Topic Search Topic Search  Topic Options Topic Options
voisj View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 19 Jul 2016
Location: San Luis Obispo
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 471 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: SLO-Pod 180 mods, John&Sue
    Posted: 11 Nov 2017 at 5:49pm
Installed a tilt out window in the 180 bathroom today, I did this one because there is no vent or window in the bathroom and now I can turn on the fan in the main cabin and open the back window to get the steam out, And get a little light. I'll post a separate topic with pictures of the process if there is interest. And thanks Rick (oldsurfer), who stopped by to help, really needed 2 people!
SLOPODMODS
John&Sue,SLO,CA
2016 180 HRE, 2013 F150 Eco Boost
 
Back to Top
DavMar View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 04 Aug 2017
Location: Lexington, NC
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 592 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2017 at 7:28pm
Outstanding!!! I can't wait to read and see your information on this mod! Again, looks great! 
Dave & Marlene J with Zoey the
wonder dog.
2017 Rpod 180
2016 Toyota Tacoma SR5 4x4
Lexington, NC
Back to Top
trjeep View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 28 Oct 2017
Location: East Tennessee
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 5 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2017 at 8:36pm
Nice job on the window.  I like all your mods.  I've had my 180 for a couple of weeks and am prepping for a trip Thanksgiving week to Disney World (Ft. Wilderness).


Currently working on your under bed drawers mod on my 180.  Could you explain a bit on how you did the drawer fronts and the finish front using the pre-made shelving from Home Depot?  Did you run it behind the seat back? How did you work using two pieces?

Thanks! 


Tony

2017 RP180
Back to Top
voisj View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 19 Jul 2016
Location: San Luis Obispo
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 471 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 12:19pm
Trjeep,
Hope this helps. I added it to the "Drawers under the mattress" post also.
1. If I were to do it again I would only Make the drawers as deep as the space under the bed so the outside storage area in the front could be taller by 5". I think this makes the drawers 34" long but still 18" wide.
2. I would remove the plywood under the drawers for better access to the water pump and water heater. the plywood under is unnecessary. and it could just go back on top same as before.
3. Put a piece of 3/4 angle iron replacing the upper face frame under the bed. this will support the center drawer guide supports and let heat out better and open up the opening a little. 

4. Here a picture of the drawer face frame. I used a 48" x 11" shelf piece and ripped it down to 9 1/4" and cut drawer holes into it. It does not go behind the seatback, and I had to add 4" to the refrigerator  end because the shelf wasn't long enough to span the distance.
5. The angle iron you see on the back of the face frame screws down to the plywood, to the drawer guide supports in addition to the face frame. The face frame screws into the framing at the ends and in between the drawers, and the framing on the refrigerator side.
6.I cut the drawer faces out of the 7 1/4" HD shelf material, One end of each is unfinished but hidden on the outside edge on each side. I set the Drawers out flush with the face frame and screwed the drawer face to them,this hides the unfinished cut out for the drawers. 






Good luck and let me know if all this makes sence.
rgds John
SLOPODMODS
John&Sue,SLO,CA
2016 180 HRE, 2013 F150 Eco Boost
 
Back to Top
trjeep View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 28 Oct 2017
Location: East Tennessee
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 5 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 6:16am
Thanks for the info.  Everything makes sense except for the mounting of the angle iron.  I'm still a little fuzzy on how that is installed.
Tony

2017 RP180
Back to Top
MIK View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: 09 Jul 2017
Location: MA
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 42 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 11:11am


Awesome mods!
 
Originally posted by voisj

I removed the knee knocking,toe stubbing, awkward table base and installed a pedestal type table stand. I added a few screws to the supports the table sits on when it's lowered for sleeping, (which I've never used).
 I set the post 1/2" toward the wall so the felt bumpers push against the wall a tad which helps stabilize the table when it's up.
I store the top up against the wall by cutting slots in the supports the table sits on when it's lowered for sleeping. There are felt bumpers on the table edge so it doesn't sit right on the floor.
 

I know it is a relatively simple mod, but can you post more details on what parts you had to buy, and closeup pictures of the installation. How stable is the table when in use? Did you put any additional support on the wall?
2018 R-Pod 180
Back to Top
voisj View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 19 Jul 2016
Location: San Luis Obispo
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 471 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 11:16am
trjeep,

 There are two 3/4" angle iron pieces, one below the drawers at the front edge and one above,
they both are screwed to the back of the face frame and drawerbox to support the center drawer framing between the drawers,(red arrow) and to strengthen the face frame which you cut big holes in.

The one above goes on top of the plywood from seat to refer wall at the front edge (red arrow) and is screwed to the face frame and through wood on both sides of the drawers and platform frame. My thought here is if i jump on the bed over the opening,(could happen),I didn't want it to collapse. 

The one below replaces this piece (yellow arrow), to better support this piece again (red arrow).
What I was trying to achieve was a good way to attach the center 2 1x's, (red arrow) to the piece under, (yellow arrow) to both support it and keep it square, and angle iron fit the job. Because it also screws to the faceframe and the drawer framing,  And it opens up the opening underneath by 2.5 "


Here is a picture of the faceframe with top angle iron attached to the back, and the 4" piece I attached to the end

and the angle iron under that replaces the 2 1/2" piece of wood.

If the angle iron under piece is to much bother you could just leave the stock piece in place and maybe add a block to tie things all together.
Life is good, John
SLOPODMODS
John&Sue,SLO,CA
2016 180 HRE, 2013 F150 Eco Boost
 
Back to Top
voisj View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 19 Jul 2016
Location: San Luis Obispo
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 471 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 11:30am
MIK,
The parts were bought at my local RV place, top and bottom Bases $6 each ,post was $8
The table will wobble if hit hard, I centered the post 1/2" towards the wall and put felt bumpers on the table edge so it was more stable. After a year i think i need to move the top socket another 1/2" as it is starting to move a little more. 
One thing I would do different is not use the flush mount socket on the bottom, Use the surface mount one.
 There is a floor joist that i took a 1/2 inch curved slice out of, not horrible, but not the best. You could just move the socket 1" towards the back and the skinnier person sits there. but really the surface mount one does the same thing. 
The Bases just screw into the and top and floor, 1/2 hour job at most. Could get them here (pictures of the parts.)
Life is good,
John
SLOPODMODS
John&Sue,SLO,CA
2016 180 HRE, 2013 F150 Eco Boost
 
Back to Top
MIK View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: 09 Jul 2017
Location: MA
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 42 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 2:10pm
Originally posted by voisj

I centered the post 1/2" towards the wall and put felt bumpers on the table edge so it was more stable. After a year i think i need to move the top socket another 1/2" as it is starting to move a little more.

Wouldn't that make the table unbalanced and lean away from the wall?
2018 R-Pod 180
Back to Top
voisj View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 19 Jul 2016
Location: San Luis Obispo
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 471 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 8:34pm
MIK,
I put a level on it and it's 1/4" out of level, and if i push down on the wall side it levels out. These things are not the most stable units and the table will wiggle if bumped. Since we don't use it for sleeping, I may add a cleat to the wall  and just screw it down so it doesn't wiggle at all.
Life is good, John
SLOPODMODS
John&Sue,SLO,CA
2016 180 HRE, 2013 F150 Eco Boost
 
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1 45678 10>

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Bulletin Board Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 9.64
Copyright ©2001-2009 Web Wiz