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Topic ClosedSafety chain reattachment

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TheBum View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Safety chain reattachment
    Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 10:02am
The bolts securing the safety chains to the A-frame on our 179 tore through the edge of the holes where they were secured, so the last time we had to tow, we had to wrap the chain around the A-frame. We were surprised to discover that the chains were mounted on a steel plate welded to the A-frame that's probably only 1/2" thick. We don't know if someone tried unsuccessfully to steal the Pod or if it happened the few times the chains got caught in the tongue jack.

Anyway, has anyone had to do safety chain reattachment? If so, what did you do?

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 2:33pm
Good Afternoon, The same thing happened to us. We had one bolt rip thru completely and the other darn near. I believe that in my case it was chain getting caught on the jack. We had a guy at Camping World bend it back up as good as he could but I'd love to hear a better, more permanent solution...
2017 179 "Big Sexy"
2012 Honda Pilot
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john in idaho View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 4:49pm
Does it catch on the jack because it wasn't wound all the way up?  Or was there too much slack in the chains?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 5:00pm
A link would catch on the end of the bolt going through the flip foot. We haven't had any issues since I replaced the bolt with a Grade 9 bolt after it broke, but the damage was probably already done.

I've considered running bolts all the way through the A-frame on each side and attaching the chain under washers under the bolt heads on the inner surface. That would be more secure than running a self tapping screw into only one surface of the A-frame, but I don't know if it would seriously compromise the strength of the A-frame.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 10:07pm
Maybe the flip foot is the problem.  If you leave it attached to the trailer while underway.  I have a wheel that I attach to the post with a clevis pin, and I always take the wheel off and stow it when driving.  I have a "dog dish" basin that I set the wheel in when parked, and it keeps the trailer from rolling, in addition to chalks - boards - behind or in front of the main wheels.  The post is cranked all the way up - yes it takes a lot of cranks on the handle.  I like the wheel because my barn has a smooth concrete floor.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 3:35pm
Bum,

I looked at mine today, they are attached to an A frame bracket that is welded on. The bracket also serves as the bottom bracket for the jack. The safety chains are held in place by what appears to be carriage bolt(s) with washers. I would have no issue with hardened bolts thru the Aframe with washers and lock nuts. I'm going to look at this a bit more as the bracket didn't see sufficient to hold onto the trailer if it left the hitch. Maybe more to follow.
Mike Carter
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 10:45am
Do you think 3/8" bolts would be big enough, or should I go to 1/2"?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 1:15pm
I will go with 3/8.,, Thru frame with large flat washers and locks.
Mike Carter
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 1:51pm
Bum,

Starting project tomorrow, believe I am going with 3/8" stainless eye bolts, with large heavy 3/8" washers and lock nuts. Will mount through frame, close to original attaching points. Need to look at how I will attach chain(s) to eyebolts. Several ideas here. Our Lowes has a good choice of attaching hardware.
Mike Carter
2015 178
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 10:10am
The old bolts were 3/8" and the A-frame is just a hair over 2" thick, so I picked up a couple of 3" long Grade 8 3/8"-16 yellow zinc bolts, washers, and lock washers at Home Depot last night. Unfortunately, they were out of the Grade 8 nuts, but Lowe's across the street has them, according to the website.
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