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Topic ClosedElectric Jack - Event Date: 23 Dec 2016 - 23 Jan 2017

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foadman View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: Electric Jack
    Posted: 23 Dec 2016 at 4:15pm
Has anyone replace the R-POD manual jack with a Harbor Freight electric jack (Haul Master 69899)? 
Will it fit? Or does anyone have the hole diameter and bolt hole circle dimensions. I do not want to purchase the jack and find out it does not fit my 2015 R-POD 171. 
Bill Miller - Elmira, NY View Post
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marwayne View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2016 at 4:34pm
I converted the standard jack to electric.

If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.


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Happy Tripping View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2016 at 4:56pm
You may want to see the negative reviews - 

http://www.harborfreight.com/3500-lb-capacity-drop-leg-heavy-duty-electric-trailer-jack-69899.html


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Leo B View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec 2016 at 10:28pm
We changed our manual one out for a quick jack  really have with the electric jack!
Leo & Melissa Bachand
2017 Ford F150
2021 Vista Cruiser 19 csk
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2015 Rpod 179
2010 Rpod 171
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Podster View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2016 at 10:55am
Originally posted by foadman

Has anyone replace the R-POD manual jack with a Harbor Freight electric jack (Haul Master 69899)? 
Will it fit? Or does anyone have the hole diameter and bolt hole circle dimensions. I do not want to purchase the jack and find out it does not fit my 2015 R-POD 171. 
Bill Miller - Elmira, NY View Post

I did, works great and only paid $99.00 for it with a coupon! Big smile

There are however a few idiosyncrasies to be aware of, but nothing one shouldn't expect after paying just $99.00.

1. There is no built in switch to cut power to the jack so one will have to be added. I opted to wire in an SAE plug so when not in use, I unplug it. 
2. To complete the circuit, the jack has to be grounded well to the POD frame. Do this by grinding some paint off the POD around the bolt hole area and also on the jack at the opposite point of mounting. Use the included star washers in between the POD frame and jack to ensure a good grounding. After mounting, seal the area the best you can to prevent rust from killing the ground. 
3. The head of the jack IS NOT water proof and because you saved some big $$$ on the jack itself, spend a few bucks and get a good jack head cover and don't take it off unless you are using the jack. 
4. You must add an easy to access fuse on the power side of the lead between the jack power lead and battery which brings me to #5. 
5. While retracting the jack under power, make sure you stop short from hitting the max travel point or the jack will overload and blow the fuse. There is a mark on the jack leg to indicate this point.
6. I think the jack speed is slow, but I'm not really sure how the speed compares to higher end jacks. Cranking is faster so if you are trying to save time, that won't happen.

I added the jack because I wanted to add a little more TW up front after changing out the mattress so I thought I might as well get some functionality for my trouble. 

If you can manage all of that, go for it! 
 
Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2016 at 8:45pm
Thanks for the advice! Merry Christmas!
bmiller
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2016 at 10:53pm
I took the crank off the OEM jack, put the right size nut on the shaft (same as the stabilizers, for which I use the drill also) and, similar to Marwayne, use a drill to crank the jack up and down.  Assuming you have the drill, it takes about $4 worth of parts and it works great, even cranking the jack way up to put sway bars on.  I've been doing this, and nothing else, for at least a couple of years.  The drill comes in handy occasionally for other things too. This is so simple, effective and easy it's really amazing to me that anyone bothers with any other method.  I have replaced a jack on a trailer before (not the pod).  It's at least as easy to convert the existing jack to drill-operated as it is to put on another jack, and there is no wiring to mess with or worry about.  If something were to ever happen to my drill or it just ran out of juice, I can always crank the jack with the same socket on a ratchet or with a lug wrench.

TT
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2016 at 11:23pm
Originally posted by foadman

Thanks for the advice! Merry Christmas!
\

You're welcome and Merry Christmas to you!

I didn't try the drill driver jack thing because I don't carry a drill. I crank my stabs...Wink

Cliff & Raelynn
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(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec 2016 at 1:22pm
I carry a drill for the stabilizers. I did get an electric jack. The drill/driver came in handy for some repairs made necessary by the mishap we had recently. Embarrassed I still have the old manual jack. I will try to convert it so it will be available as a backup in case the electric jack fails.

I did hand-crank the stabilizers on our first big trip. That got old fast. We got the drill/driver after that first trip.
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

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