Texman 182g Mods

off grid

that is a good suggestion for the location of sensor.  I really haven't decided yet and planned on doing some testing of locations at or near the fresh water tank. near that suction line makes the most sense to me too.  The sensor is waterproof as well (supposedly) and i was wondering if it could be immersed in the tank somehow, but i have not figured out a way to do that yet. 

The proximity of the pod heater to the suction line on the 182g may cause me some misreading.  I will have to test.

Thanks for the instructions.

Edit:  I have an infrared heat sensor that i will use to test temps around the pod.  Plan to complete the install and begin testing this weekend.

costs

2 x motor ball valve normal closed=$32.99ea x2 =$65.98

motor valve Rev pol=28.99

barb T=10.79

1/2" npt to SB x 5 = 34.25

man SB valve = 13.76

hose clamps = 5.00?

pex pipe = 5.00

dpdt switch = 8.20

wire = 20.00?

wire terminals = 5.00 ?

Labor = FREEish

$ 196.97 w/o sales tax.  About the cost of 1 1/2 tank heating pads.  so cheaper and can be used while boondocking.  i'll call that a win! 

Thanks Off grid for the concept.

The two identical valves are automatic ball valves that are normally closed.  30ma draw each to hold open then close on no power.

this the farthest point in the plumbing from the water heater and pump.  This is the tremendous wasted space in the 182g that is between the bathroom and the rear kitchen and underneath the bottom bunk.  only accessible by lifting the mattress. 

This is where the second normally closed valve will go that will be controlled by the thermostat that is sensing temps close to zero to actuate and open.  i store my manuals in the box in the pic here.

the valve for recirculating hot water using the on board water pump is pictured.  The top valve is a normal closed valve that will be linked to an identical valve (not shown) at the rear of the pod at the rear kitchen.  these two valves are controlled via a thermostat to open when temps are near freezing and remain closed when temps are not close to freezing. the valves draw 30ma each to remain open, so they low energy and should be suitable for boondocking in colder weather.   The valve at the rear will be the mixing valve for the hot water to return via the cold water lines and dump into the fresh water tank via the overflow line when both valves are open and the third valve is closed (the valve at the bottom of the pic.). 

The valve at the bottom is a two wire reverse polarity ball valve that will be controlled by a DPDT switch mounted with the rest of the pod switches by the stereo panel.  This valve controls whether the fresh water flows normally (as in warm weather with cold/hot mixing at the point of use) or stops the cold water and then the other thermostatically controlled switches react to the temperature to open and close to circulate water to prevent freezing. This valve only uses power when opening or closing.  Once it reaches each state, it uses no power. the idea is to automate the cold weather function as best i can and be able to return to the normal configuration with ease.  Some of the valves are not easy to get to.  And, i still like the idea of having separate cold and hot water available when needed. 

I used pex fittings which are easy, but are not cheap.  They are nice in the tight settings that this has to be placed since they are simply push to connect.  more pics to come.