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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Texman 182g Mods
    Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 1:31pm
Originally posted by texman

with the LED lights on the hall meter was showing about 80 watts when i was on batteries, which is nothing that should run batteries down.  
80 watts is not an insignificant load on 12V batteries. That's roughly 6.6 amps. I would consider that a high parasitic load; especially if you don't know what's causing it.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 10:51am
i am planning to take them back to battery and bulb and have them test them and see about warranty

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 10:47am
+1 to GlueGuy, a battery hydrometer to check electrolyte specific gravity would be my suggestion as well. The issue with the battery load testers are that they are designed to test for cold cranking amps for starting batteries. Not really the right test for capacity on deep cycle batts.

For sure first check water level in the batteries, fill, and charge for a day at 13.8V or so to be sure the electrolyte is mixed and they're fully charged. Let them float unloaded for an hour and then measure the open circuit voltage and specific gravity. Should be around 12.6V and SG around 1.26.  If either of those are low then you could try whacking them with an equalize charge at around 14.4V for awhile to see if that clears sulfation on the plates. If that doesn't bring them back then they're probably toast. 


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texman View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 10:08am
with the LED lights on the hall meter was showing about 80 watts when i was on batteries, which is nothing that should run batteries down.  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 9:58am
Best way is to load test them. A quick search on Amazon for battery load testers brings up several that are good for both 6V and 12V batteries. These are a few:

Or you could take them to your local Batteries + Bulbs store or Walmart or any auto parts store and they will load test them for you for free.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 9:56am
You can get an inexpensive hydrometer from an auto parts store for around $20. That will tell you if the chemistry on your batteries is OK or not. 

Separate from that, maybe you should check if you have any parasitic loads.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 9:35am
temp in the mid 50s.  batteries are a about 2 years old.  i need to check the acid level.  maybe i have let them get dry.  don't know.  they are dual GC6 duracell from batteries and bulbs. What is the best way to test if they are junk?  Voltmeter with no load?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 9:24am
Yeah, that's quite a bit of voltage drop for a light load like that. How old are your batteries? What was the approximate battery temperature? Internal resistance in batteries increases significantly when its cold, so the voltage drop going from a charge to a discharge condition increases. 

The pump should self prime once you put some more water in the fresh tank. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 8:54am
after i installed the DROK, i disconnected the shore power and attempted to set up the meter.  all seems good except i haven't figured out (been able) to set up the capacity and remaining amp hours.  by that i mean i set them up in the device, but i am not getting them to calculate yet.  But while i was testing this on battery power and working on the other stuff, i watched my voltage drop to 12.2v in less than an hour.  The pic is the reading while hooked up and charging.  So i don't know if i have fried the batteries somehow or not.  they have been plugged in and charged the whole time in storage and i have added distilled water a couple of times.  So i wouldn't think they are fried, but don't know why i would drop to 12.2 v otherwise. thoughts?   only load was a couple of LEDs and the base pod loads of detectors. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 8:43am
i added the drok battery meter also. 
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