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jato View Drop Down
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Joined: 23 Feb 2012
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Hitch care
    Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 7:40pm
Been there, done that.  After the first couple strikes, I was told to turn them the opposite direction, made zero difference.  Yes, these were auto deer whistles.  Funny thing, this is really a Ford tough truck, although my front bumper kinda looks like a twisted pretzel, I have never had it in to a body shop, even after 31 kills.  The worst damage I incurred was when I had just gotten the truck (company truck) and had it for 3 days.  It was during the rut and about 25-35 yards ahead of me I counted over 20 deer crossing the road, so I came to a complete stop.  During that time a deer came out of a cornfield on my left (traveling the opposite direction of the deer in front of me) and ran full tilt into the truck, just behind my door, made a pretty good size dent in the side.  It was laying down on the pavement, moving around in circles, I thought for sure it broke its neck.  As I got out of the truck, the doe proceeded to get up and limp off into the cornfield, as far as I know it lived.  I took the truck to the owners and showed them the damage, they shuddered as they hadn't put insurance on it yet.  I still am reminded of that hit today, as it never was fixed.  I have hit mostly all does, only a few were bucks.  Maybe I should try to get a few pics of this fine old truck and post it for you all to see.  It is in pretty rough shape but still runs fine after 307,000 miles with a 5.0 L V-8 and manual stick shift.
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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codycountry View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 6:57pm
Perhaps your deer whistles are working more like "wolf whistles" and actually attracting the deer?  
Are you by chance hitting more doe deer than bucks? 
Try turning them around and see if that changes anything then you'll know for sure.
You might have purchased the wrong kind of deer whistle..... I saw a show on one of those hunting channels about this..... there are auto deer whistles and there are hunting deer whistles.
I do feel your pain, my ex wife hit a deer on the way home from the auto body shop getting her repaired car back from hitting a deer.  
We have nothing like you folks do for deer strikes, but one is too many.
Around here the two places that appreciate the Game and Fish department the most are the auto body shops and the taxidermists. 
Wink
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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 5:41pm
Oh boy you bring up a sore subject on deer whistles.  After my 4th deer kill with my '94 F-150 I was told by some locals, put on a pair of deer whistles, that will prevent you from killing all our deer (I had 4 deer kills in 3 years).  So I purchase and install them on the front bumper as per the instructions.  I truly believe (and the guys who sold me on this idea are now convinced) that it only exasperated the problem.  Like a trooper I continued to put on deer whistles on the front bumper after the previous deer kill would take them off.  Long story short, with deer whistles I was able to kill an additional 7 deer in 3 years and was out the money to keep replacing them.  So now here I sit with my '94 F-150 with 31 notches (deer kills) in the 18 years I have owned the truck.  I travel between 30-35 mph on my way to work (at 5:05 - 5:15 am) and only travel 5 miles to get to work, yet with 1 exception all the deer hit have been in the morning on this 5 mile jaunt.  And I'm not counting the ones I have hit and they limp/scamper/walk away.  Yes, I have killed more with my truck than with my rifle, kind of embarrassing.  At my place of employment the truck is appropriately called "deer slayer."  AND . . . . no more deer whistles.
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 12:27pm
Thanks Tars, helpful enough....

"Whether dielectric grease really matters or not" ....kinda falls into the "deer whistle" category for me:

Q? Do deer whistles on your front bumper really emit a sound that causes them to hear you coming in advance, so as not to bound further into the range of your headlights???? 

Debatable I suppose.

So I've always spent the $8 or so, plus the 6 minutes to attach them to my various vehicles over the decades.

Previous to my first animal whistles, the only deer I ever hit was decades ago in the Sawtooth Mountains of Idaho with my young son on a camping trip in the old slant-six Dodge pickup.)

Still, after that early incident, no way to prove their effectiveness for my family's road trips since. 

That's my story, and I'm sticking them to the bumper anyway....Ermm

-B
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 11:26am
There should be a sufficient ground through the Bargman but I seem to recall a million years ago, trailer connections relied on the hitch for the ground, but no way I can document that now.  I figure it can only help though.  Dielectric grease is good but I don't know that it really matters.  Maybe it does.   How's that for helpful?

TT
2010 176
FJ Cruiser
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 11:06am
Heh, everyone, interesting thread. I'm trying to learn as much as I can here. After we reached about mile 5400 of our 7000-mile camping journey this year, I heard a new odd squeaky groaning sound as we rolled slowly over uneven ground into our campsite (at the Crescent City KOA under the big redwoods).

 When I released the tow vehicle after setting up, the hitch ball was "dry" ...though I had lubed it with just standard axle grease at the beginning of the journey. There was also some very minor scruffed wear points on the sides of the ball, though maybe that is what happens anyway over time.

Then, somewhere (maybe not on this forum), I read that  "Dialectic Grease" is the best choice to use on the hitch ball, as the trailer relies on "a ground" at this hitch point that benefits your TV's 12V charging circuit, plus all the 12V tailight/sidelight wiring, plus a good connection there discharges any static build-up from the road in very dry climates (which can have odd side-effects I guess). 

Out in CA, I went ahead and bought a tube of Dielectric grease (which turned out to be not expensive and a much easier dispenser to use that my messy round tin of axle grease in a greasy zip-lock bag)... I figured it wouldn't hurt to use it, even if the "ground" information I heard is not accurate. Maybe, the electrical ground established by the trailer's hitch ball link from the vehicle to trailer is not present, or not relevant? 

The positive end result for me was the WonderPod from that point on, stopped making squeaky/groaning sounds over lumpy camprgound access roads, based on the "lube your ball" view.

The benefits of making a more reliable "ground" point seemed like a convincing theory, so I wanted to run the validity of this across anyone with an electrical engineering background, or who is smart in electrical theory. Or even if you don't have electrical background, what is your view on this?

Brad & Layli
Wonderpod 179
towed by "BG"
(Baluga) the 10 Tundra
WesternNC


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2016 at 5:18pm
Good point, TheBum, will adjust:)
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TheBum View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2016 at 5:16pm
Originally posted by mcarter

I know it sounds "country" but I've known folks who use soap bars, the little pieces that you can never figure out what to do with. Regardless, I agree you should lubricate your hitch ball. AND use WD40 or like to lube your TT locking mechanism. If you don't think there is friction try a painted hitch ball. The paint will be gone.


WD-40 is not a lube. It's a water repellant. Tri-Flo oil is a pretty good all-around synthetic lubricant.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2016 at 5:16pm
I did find "greaseless" hitch balls at etrailer, that have replaceable nylon caps on the ball, they were for the "Rapid Hitches".
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2016 at 5:08pm
I know it sounds "country" but I've known folks who use soap bars, the little pieces that you can never figure out what to do with. Regardless, I agree you should lubricate your hitch ball. AND use WD40 or like to lube your TT locking mechanism. If you don't think there is friction try a painted hitch ball. The paint will be gone.
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