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Topic ClosedWinterization - Event Date: 07 Oct 2016 - 10 Oct 2016

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Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: Winterization
    Posted: 11 Oct 2016 at 3:06pm
To answer your first question - yes, the outlets still work. Actually, everything will work, as the onboard converter/charger will supply 12vdc to the things that need it. I am wondering....if you are going to leave the Pod plugged in, then why remove the battery? The onboard converter/charger will keep it charged up/maintained.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 2016 at 4:18pm
Originally posted by David

To answer your first question - yes, the outlets still work. Actually, everything will work, as the onboard converter/charger will supply 12vdc to the things that need it. I am wondering....if you are going to leave the Pod plugged in, then why remove the battery? The onboard converter/charger will keep it charged up/maintained.



Literally, word for word, what I was going to type. Well.. I might not have used that one comma right there, but other than that..
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 2016 at 5:53pm
Even if you use compressed air to blow out the lines, it is a good idea to suck up enough pink stuff to fill the pump.  I do not believe the compressed air gets to the pump.

Happy Trails......
2010 R Pod 151
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 2016 at 7:30pm
Originally posted by podrunner

Even if you use compressed air to blow out the lines, it is a good idea to suck up enough pink stuff to fill the pump.  I do not believe the compressed air gets to the pump.

Happy Trails......


It does not. And come spring we will see quite a few bad pumps and many broken pre-filter housings. Happens every year.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2016 at 8:28pm
I run my pump until it pumps nothing but air. Then I blow out all the lines one at a time. After that I open the hot water anode let the water run out. The air gets through the pump at that time
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 2016 at 10:30am
Originally posted by kent l

I run my pump until it pumps nothing but air. Then I blow out all the lines one at a time. After that I open the hot water anode let the water run out. The air gets through the pump at that time


No it doesn't. There is no way to "push" air through the water pump. The WH is after the pump in the plumbing. Draining it.. drains the WH. Nothing else.

Running the pump "dry", only drains it to the cavitation point. There will still be water in the front pump housing and again, in the prefilter
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 2016 at 8:07pm
+1
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 2016 at 9:20pm
Our 2017 R Pod 179 only has two water heater bypass valves -- a two-way valve on the inlet and a shutoff valve on the outlet.  Moving the two-way valve directs the inlet to the bypass pipe and the shutoff valve blocks the water heater outlet.  Make sense?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2016 at 8:56am
Originally posted by PodWa

Our 2017 R Pod 179 only has two water heater bypass valves -- a two-way valve on the inlet and a shutoff valve on the outlet.  Moving the two-way valve directs the inlet to the bypass pipe and the shutoff valve blocks the water heater outlet.  Make sense?

Yes, that makes perfect sense. The two way valve performs the function of two of the conventional valves. That's a simple and obvious improvement, but I can't think of any way to accomplish the objective with only one valve unless it's a fancy multi-function valve or an additional check valve is involved.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2016 at 5:51pm
I have a 2017 Model 180 and it has 3 valves.  I have winterized and all 3 are turned perpendicular to their respective pipes [after drawing in the antifreeze from the tube]  I guess there are several configurations.
Bill
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