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Topic ClosedPower Jack ?

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marwayne View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Power Jack ?
    Posted: 27 Aug 2016 at 1:55pm
1.50$

If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.


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ToolmanJohn View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2016 at 4:44pm
I just bought the Quick Jack from Amazon. I'll install it sometime next week, and report back. i have a trip in late September, and every time I camp at this place, the sites are very sloped. My trailer tongue is either very high, or very low at these sites. Plus with the addition last year of my  Anderson WDH, it should make it easier/faster to install the hitch chains.

 My driveway slope is also near the max limit of the full extension of my current tongue jack, so I get some exercise every time I park the trailer and hook up in the driveway. 

 I use an old spare 12V DeWalt 3/8" cordless drill and a Camco adapter for the trailer stabilizers. I've never had to touch those with the hand crank!!
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2016 at 5:24pm
Originally posted by Bovine0001


Originally posted by Tars Tarkas


Maybe this isn't the solution for everyone, but I replaced the crank on my stock jack with a hex nut the same size as the shafts on the stabilizer jacks.  I use an 18v cordless drill for both now.  Less work  and a lot less expense than buying a power jack.  The drill has plenty of power for cranking the trailer up or down quite a few times.TT


how did you do that?  My crank does not simply come off.


I wish I'd taken pictures....  The crank on my tongue jack was attached to the top, so it turns like a merry-go-round, as opposed to a Ferris Wheel.  The crank was held on with a rivet-like thing.  I ground off one end of the rivet, slid the rivet out and removed the handle, leaving a shaft with a hole in the middle.

Then I went to the big-box hardware and got a nut the same size as the cranks on the stabilizers.... to lazy to go measure right now, probably 3/4ths or 13/16ths.  As I recall, the hole in the nut was the right size to fit easily on the shaft of the jack, but maybe I had to drill it out a bit.  I did drill a hole from one face of the bolt, through the center and out the other side.  In the center of one face, through the middle of the nut and out the opposite face.  The hole was just the right size for an appropriate sized roll pin.  I dropped the nut on the shaft, lined up the nut holes I drilled with the hole in the shaft that the rivet used to go through, and I drove the roll pin in.  Then I ground the ends of the roll pin flush with the face of the nut, so that a socket could slide all the way down on the nut.  VoilĂ .

TT

 
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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2016 at 5:56pm
Marwayne, you got my vote!  And I like the price too !
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Bovine0001 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2016 at 10:59am
Originally posted by marwayne

1.50$




Did you cut your crank off? Mine is not detachable.

Sorry to pester ya, but this looks cool.
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marwayne View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2016 at 12:12pm
Yes I cut the crank off, but left the nipple as long as possible so I could cut a thread on it to screw the nut on. There is also a set screw on the nut.
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
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fwunder View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2016 at 6:09pm
I don't have a tap and die set (yet), so I'm thinking popping the top of the crank removing the crank/roll pin and cut threads off a 1/2 inch bolt with dremmel or hack saw and drill a hole for roll pin. I've seen that idea somewhere on the interwebs. If I can borrow a die set before, marwayne's idea is much simpler.

fred
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2016 at 8:20pm
Now that I have the JackQuick power jack installed, I have the manual jack as a backup. I might try to modify it as I will be able to work on it without fear that I will leave my R-Pod without a means to raise and lower it. That way, if something were to happen to the JackQuick, I would have a backup on hand.
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Leo B View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2016 at 9:07pm
Sounds like a good plan!
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marwayne View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2016 at 12:28am
I saved the crank had a friend weld a 3/4"socket on the end so I can still crank it manually.
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.


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