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ouR escaPOD mods

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StephenH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: ouR escaPOD mods
    Posted: 02 Jul 2021 at 2:57pm
We traveled through Colorado on our recent trip. At that time, we were using the FPSC cooler. It is that experience that helped convince me that an efficient compressor refrigerator was feasible.
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2021 at 6:55am
Originally posted by GlueGuy

The installation looks very nice Stephen; good job!
I do have a couple of questions though. 
The interior looks pretty roomy. What is the volume comparison between the old absorption fridge and this one?
Do you have a delta on the energy cost difference?


Re cost difference, let's assume the actual heat being removed is the same with the two fridges. That's probably pretty close (assuming the absorption one is working), they very have similar size and insulation levels.

The coefficient of performance for the Danfoss compressor's specs have it around 1.5 to 2 (better at cooler ambient temps, worse at higher). So it's using around 0.5 to 0.7 watt hours of electricity to remove one watt hour of heat from the fridge.

It's a lot more difficult to get a COP for the absorption fridge but it's much worse, and drops off much faster at high ambient temps than does the compressor. From what I could find, a COP in the range of 0.5 to 0.75 is about right. That's consistent with the units using around 10-11 amps continuous (240-270 amp hours/day when in 12V mode, (and only marginally cooling in that mode) or about 3x-4x the energy of the compressor fridge. Let's call it roughly 1 kwh/day compressor vs 3 kwh/day absorption.

So then the question is cost of that energy. If youre running both on electric shore power at a campground there is zero cost difference to you. Advantage: neither.

If you're running both on a small gasoline generator (electricity from which typically costs about $0.75 to $1 per kwh) then the cost difference is about $1.50-$2.00 per day. Advantage: Compressor fridge.

But why would anyone do that? They would just run the absorption fridge on propane, which you can't to with the compressor fridge. Then the advantage shifts. That's because if you use a generator to run an absorption fridge you are burning fuel to create heat, converting that heat into electricity (only about 20% efficient at best in a small genny) and then turning that electricity back into heat.

That 5x difference in efficiency between burning the fuel directly in the absorption fridge and running it through the conversion to electric for the compressor fridge more than compensates for the inefficiency of the absorption fridge itself.

So if you are boondocking using a propane genny like I do, you would be better off with a propane fired absorption fridge than the Danfoss compressor one, all else being equal. Advantage: absorption fridge.

Finally, let's look at the case where you are boondocking running the compressor fridge on solar, vs running the absorption fridge on propane. Since you already bought enough solar, but are paying for the propane, the advantage shifts back to the compressor fridge in terms of incremental costs. iOW, you might as well use the solar since you already own it.

I'm gonna stop here, if you haven't bought the solar yet and want to calculate the payback time on that investment then that is another chapter.....



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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2021 at 9:46am
Thanks. That is a great analysis. I did add additional insulation around the box of the refrigerator except where the compressor and condenser sit. That should help with the energy efficiency of the new refrigerator.

Other factors are the ability to cool in hot weather. That is where I always had problems with the absorption refrigerator and which caused us to start carrying and using the FPSC cooler. That should no longer be needed unless we want the additional capacity it would provide. It is possible that I might want to increase the amount of solar. I was seeing at peaks, 5+ Amperes being generated by the panel (according to the charge controller) in full sunlight. With the 1.x Amperes being used by the refrigerator, the meter inside was showing much less amperes being fed into the battery. That varied, of course, based on whether the refrigerator compressor was running full-tilt or throttled back or off. Again, I don't have a way to record these things so my observations are spot observations.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2021 at 12:54pm
100% agree the compressor fridge will do a better job in hot weather, not only does it's COP stay higher, but it has much more capacity. It will just use more energy.

Not sure what size solar module you have but a 100 watt one should provide about 5-6 amps into a nominal 12V battery when oriented perpendicular to the sun's rays on a clear day. If that is an average spring or summer day they you'll get about 5 sunhours in the East or roughly 25-30 amphours. If it's an average fall day then 15-20 amphours. Either way. not enough to run a Danfoss fridge. I typically would use about 200 watts for a Danfoss vaccine fridge, and those were never expected to cool things down, the vaccines always went in ready cold.

So you can certainly add a second solar module but I'd be inclined to add additional battery to start with. In our part of the country we get lots of cloudy days where the solar module(s) won't produce squat and the genny would have to run anyway. Doubling your battery capacity would get you through 2-3 cloudy days boondocking in hot weather which sounds like it should be enough for the way you use your pod most of the time, and it would also allow another day or two for the weather to clear and your solar production to average out. One thing with off grid solar system design is to try to always balance how much battery capacity you have with how much solar production.

Since the Li batteries each has a dedicated BMS I don't think paralleling two different age Li batteries is anything near the problem it is with PbA.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2021 at 5:02pm
Originally posted by offgrid

Since the Li batteries each has a dedicated BMS I don't think paralleling two different age Li batteries is anything near the problem it is with PbA.
That is exactly the question I was going to ask. I asked ExpertPower and they recommended that if the battery was over 6 months old, they would not recommend paralleling it. However, given what you said about each having its own BMS, it would make sense that the same capacity battery added n parallel would likely be okay.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote DavMar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2021 at 5:54pm
Originally posted by StephenH

Originally posted by offgrid

Since the Li batteries each has a dedicated BMS I don't think paralleling two different age Li batteries is anything near the problem it is with PbA.
That is exactly the question I was going to ask. I asked ExpertPower and they recommended that if the battery was over 6 months old, they would not recommend paralleling it. However, given what you said about each having its own BMS, it would make sense that the same capacity battery added n parallel would likely be okay.


You might find this general information on paralleling Lithium batteries useful.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2021 at 6:05pm
Thanks Dave & Marlene. I'll keep track of power use and decide based on that whether a battery change is needed for our style of travel/camping.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2021 at 6:25pm
Since each battery has a dedicated BMS which is keeping all the cell voltages within a tight range of each other, the only issue you could have with two parallel batteries would be if one has significantly lower internal resistance than the other and so gets more charge current and provides more discharge current than the other. If you place individual amp hour/energy monitors on each battery you would know if that is happening. There are ways of compensating for that in the unlikely event that if becomes an issue.

As with PbA batteries of course you should take the pos output from one and the neg from the other so they're balanced as well as possible.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2021 at 7:08am
Originally posted by offgrid

Since each battery has a dedicated BMS which is keeping all the cell voltages within a tight range of each other, the only issue you could have with two parallel batteries would be if one has significantly lower internal resistance than the other and so gets more charge current and provides more discharge current than the other. If you place individual amp hour/energy monitors on each battery you would know if that is happening. There are ways of compensating for that in the unlikely event that if becomes an issue.

As with PbA batteries of course you should take the pos output from one and the neg from the other so they're balanced as well as possible.
I can understand it until I get to the part about how to have the shunt for each battery that only keeps track of that battery. If I parallel them, wouldn't the shunt from the second battery where the negative connects to the system also be reading the power for both? I sent a sketch and would like your input. 

Current setup has positive connected though cut-off switch and fuse into the system with a separate wire to the DC to DC charger. Negative has a wire to the shunt and then to the converter with another wire for the DC to DC charger that connects to the system side of the shunt so that power into the battery is also read.

Proposed setup has the two positives connected. The positive for one would be connected to the cut-off switch and fuse into the system. Would I put a shunt on the one connected to the system and run that to the second battery, then a shunt on the second battery that would connect to the system or would I use something like a Y cable with shunts on each battery and the Y cable from the shunts to the system and DC to DC charger? 

Also, I started a test. I started the refrigerator cooling last night. This morning, I took readings on battery charge state, ambient and internal temperatures and time. Later today, I will check these parameters. That should give me an idea of power use. High today is projected to be 87F. This afternoon, I will check and see how much power is remaining. If it is good, I will extend the test into this evening. If it is still good, I may let it go overnight.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2021 at 7:55pm
Okay. Here are some stats on refrigerator power use:

Start time Battery % Battery Amps Ambient Temperature Refrigerator Temperature
08:43 99.8% 99.78A 62.6F 39.7F
14:45 87% 86.9A 85.1F 40.4F
20.43 72.3% 72.29A 78.9F 41.3F

Power use over 12 hours: 27.48A
Average power use: 2.29A/hour

Projected battery life: 43.67 hours   (100A/2.29A)

In reality, this would be much less since we would be using power for lights, fans, etc. This test was run with just the refrigerator running plus the normal parasitic draws. We would need to be traveling during the day so the DC to DC charger could recharge the battery or if we were sitting still, would need to run the generator to recharge the battery. The 100W solar panel would extend the battery life, but would likely not be able to keep up with the demand.
StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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