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ouR escaPOD mods

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StephenH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: ouR escaPOD mods
    Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 1:50pm
I'm having a bit of trouble getting a picture to show.
Essentially, your sketch is what I am planning. There may be some minor differences between what your sketch shows and what I have in mind.


StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 5:02pm
Ok,  here's the paragragh that confused me:

"Yes, that is exactly what I am planning. I have purchased a fuse block tap which inserts in place of the regular fuse and has two slots. One takes the original fuse for the circuit and the other is the fuse for the tap circuit. That will connect to the relay coil." 

I didn't put that in the schematic bc I didn't know where it went. Is that coming off the existing ignition circuit? 

Also, are you disconnecting the old 12V feed from the 7 way? You shouldn't want or need that anymore. 

Finally, not sure how it is wired but take a look at the breakaway switch for the trailer brakes to be sure it still gets power from the trailer battery when the cable is pulled. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 6:16pm
The tap goes into the fuse block to take the place of an existing fuse which gets inserted into the tap. Then there is a separate fused line that comes off that that will go to the relay. I need to figure out exactly which fuse in the block will get the tap.

No, I had not planned on disconnecting it. I may see what fuse controls it and if I can do so without affecting anything else, remove the fuse to disable that circuit. I had originally thought just to leave it but you are right. With the dedicated charge circuit, it would not be needed.

As for the breakaway switch, it would have to get power from the battery since otherwise, it would not work if the trailer broke away. That is another reason I did not do much with the wiring that was at the A frame other than to connect  in the powerpole connector for the solar suitcase. and to insulate the connections so there wouldn't be a short.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 6:49pm
Originally posted by StephenH


The tap goes into the fuse block to take the place of an existing fuse which gets inserted into the tap. Then there is a separate fused line that comes off that that will go to the relay. I need to figure out exactly which fuse in the block will get the tap.
No, I had not planned on disconnecting it. I may see what fuse controls it and if I can do so without affecting anything else, remove the fuse to disable that circuit. I had originally thought just to leave it but you are right. With the dedicated charge circuit, it would not be needed.
As for the breakaway switch, it would have to get power from the battery since otherwise, it would not work if the trailer broke away. That is another reason I did not do much with the wiring that was at the A frame other than to connect  in the powerpole connector for the solar suitcase. and to insulate the connections so there wouldn't be a short.




Can’t tell exactly what you mean by the tap coming from the block but you need to find a line that’s hot when the ignition is on and feed that to the relay coil, right? The relay contacts need to be fed from the start battery via your new high current circuit breaker.

The old 12v feed via the 7 way needs to be disconnected somewhere now that you will be using the dc/dc converter, doesn’t matter if it’s on the TV or trailer side, but if on the trailer side the breakaway needs to still be connected to your trailer battery. I don’t know where that connection is made so I thought I’d mention it. A test to be sure it still works after you’re done with your rewiring might be the best way.



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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2020 at 9:11pm
Originally posted by offgrid

Can’t tell exactly what you mean by the tap coming from the block but you need to find a line that’s hot when the ignition is on and feed that to the relay coil, right? The relay contacts need to be fed from the start battery via your new high current circuit breaker.
Exactly! I will put the tap into one of the fuse positions that is live when the engine is running. That has a wire that will go to the relay actuator. The power will go from a battery post connector through the circuit breaker to the relay. The other side of the relay will run to the new 2-pole socket on the back of the Frontier.
The old 12v feed via the 7 way needs to be disconnected somewhere now that you will be using the dc/dc converter, doesn’t matter if it’s on the TV or trailer side, but if on the trailer side the breakaway needs to still be connected to your trailer battery. I don’t know where that connection is made so I thought I’d mention it. A test to be sure it still works after you’re done with your rewiring might be the best way.
I was planning on doing that. The feed will be disconnected once I figure out which fuse in the Frontier is supplying it. I will pull that fuse. Since the A frame still has 12V power the way I have it connected, the breakaway switch will have power also, even if the Frontier is not connected.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2020 at 8:38am
That should all work. 

If I do this I think I might try to send the ignition signal to the dc/dc converter using the center "backup light" pin of my 7 way. Neither of my trailers has backup lights so it shouldn't be a problem.  Then I can use pin 4 on the TV side as it is already configured, cut that wire on the trailer side and redirect it to the dc/dc. 

Like this: 



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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2020 at 9:21pm
I am making progress. I received the NVX Mobile Audio Relay and Battery Isolator, 80 amp Continuous Power Handling. I have no intent of ever sending 80A through the cables I am installing. I installed a 40A circuit breaker in the line that will be attached to the Frontier's positive battery terminal. That is connected to one post of the relay. The other post has the cable that runs to the back of the Frontier. I will connect the actuator posts tomorrow as I ran out of daylight today.

I am still waiting on the socket and plug. I have the negative wire for the charger run and will work on the positive wire tomorrow as well. The NVX wiring diagram states to use protection as close to the batteries as possible. I will have a 30A breaker in the circuit just before the charger since that is the maximum size recommended by Renogy. I am using auto-reset breakers in both of these positions.

I am looking forward to getting the rest of the parts in so I can test to see how well it will work. I may use some temporary connectors to test the operation, but that would be very temporary, just long enough to verify that it works the way I think it will.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2020 at 7:40am
Originally posted by StephenH

 I will have a 30A breaker in the circuit just before the charger since that is the maximum size recommended by Renogy. 

I can't tell from this where you are planning to place the 30A breaker. A schematic would really help.

Are you referring to the TV side of the Renogy dc/dc converter? You want to place breakers and fuses as far upstream toward the sources of current as possible. Since there isn't anything else on the TV charge circuit other than the dc/dc (I think?) then you can just place the 30A breaker at the TV battery. No point in having two breakers on that circuit. 

You will also need a breaker on the Li battery side of that circuit, right at the battery if possible. If Renogy specs a 30A fuse for the dc/dc on that side then that would require a dedicated circuit from the battery with a 30A fuse or cb there, and a separate protected line to the panelboard and battery charger. Otherwise you could use a single battery cb sized for the combined charging current of your solar module, dc/dc, and WFCO battery charger, but you'd need to also use the appropriate (large) wire gauge. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2020 at 9:09am
See the link for the NVX instructions:

Renogy says to use a 30A fuse for the starter battery side of the circuit. That will be the one closest to the charger which will be located very close to the trailer's battery. I already have a CB in the output circuit of the battery leading to the RPod's wiring. I have indeed used appropriate sized wiring for all of these. The RPod's battery output wiring is 4AWG. The wiring I am running for the DC to DC charger is 6AWG. The solar panel has a 10A fuse in the output lines that will connect to the RPod. I think I will be okay. Once I get things done, I will post pictures and that will make things clearer.
StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2020 at 9:59am
Unless you are connecting something else to the circuit between the start battery and the dc/dc you can just place the 30a breaker at the start battery. Adding a second one at the dc/dc isn’t needed because it is in series with the one at the start battery, so both will see the same current during operation. The reason to place it at the start battery rather than the dc/dc is to clear the current flow from the battery if you have a short in the wires in between somewhere. You can place a second breaker or fuse at the dc/dc if you want to but it’s redundant.

Hope that’s clear.
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