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ouR escaPOD mods

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StephenH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: ouR escaPOD mods
    Posted: 06 Mar 2020 at 8:42pm
I did get the PowerPole connectors installed, replacing the MC4 connectors. I probably could have gotten by with lower amperage rated ones. The gray ones are good in that it is the same connection for all pieces and is labeled for + and -. To connect, one side is just turned over and then they slide together, ensuring that + always connects to + and - always connects to -. That is the only way they will connect. I was short one connector which is on order and should arrive tomorrow. The one PowerPole is on the tongue, tied in to the original battery cables. The extension has one at each end. The solar controller has one, and one of the items on order will change the SAE connector from MC4 to PowerPole so it will connect to the solar controller or the extension. I wish I had been remided about the PowerPole connectors before I bought the MC4 tool kit. The crimper will be good for light-weight connectors. The cutter/stripper will be handy as a spare to the one I already have. The MC4 connectors, however, will only be stored now.

I found the 10/12 AWG PowerPole terminals to be hard to put on. I had bought a battery lug crimper which works okay. I followed that up with soldering the connectors to be sure they will stay and that they have a good internal connection that won't add resistance. For the solar controller, I removed the original wires with the MC4 connectors and set it aside, replacing them with 10 AWG wire and a PowerPole connector. That way, I can revert it back to factory condition very easily. While doing so, I found that the factory install had not cut the insulation back beyond the point where they fasten. I saw a little bit of flattened insulation where the screw had crushed the insulation also. It is no longer that way.
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote geewizard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2020 at 8:24am
You did it the same as I did.  I have my RPod and a truck camper and use the PowerPole connectors for both.  I can move my portable solar panels, and extension cables, between them easily since I use the same connectors everywhere.

I soldered all my terminals by the way, no crimping.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2020 at 2:08pm
I had this mod done before I got the PowerPole connectors and panel kit. However, since I was busy with that, I did not get a chance to write that one up. This one is based on the pattern by John, posted here:  http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9066&KW=&PID=85213&title=3rd-180-mod-furnace-heat-deflector#85213

I did have to modify it a bit as it wasn't fitting the way I thought it should. It is possible I was not reading the template correctly. I ended up adding a stiffener on the top and a hanger and an angle on the bottom to close up the space a bit more which also stiffens the bottom. All exposed edges at the front have a rolled-over edge so it would not have any sharp edges. All was covered with aluminum tape on the seams, then Frost King Duct Insulation. The edges of that were covered with the foil tape also. I tested it, and the heat is properly diverted and the area next to it stays nice and cool from the return air. I will be able to use some of that space for storage now.

Now for some pictures:


StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Subzilla View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Subzilla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2020 at 5:07pm
Got a solar wiring question for you experts. Wiring up my Renogy Suitcase and thinking about fuse placement. Normally you want fuses close to the power source (battery). But isn’t the solar panel the power source in this case?!? So I’m trying to understand the logic here. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2020 at 6:57pm
Sure the solar module also produces power, but its current limited. IOW, if you short out a solar module you only get about 10% more current than you do normally, so its not a problem. OTOH, if you short out a battery you can get hundreds of amps. So, place your fuse at the battery and you'll be fine. 

According to the electrical code, you should size the wire and fuse to handle 1.56 times the short circuit current rating of your solar module. That will take care of nuisance fuse blows and higher than normal solar output due to reflections off clouds. You can find the module short circuit current rating (Isc) in the spec sheet. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2020 at 8:28pm
I just installed one in the extension cable that I made. It is going to be closer to the panel when it is in use. That will be a 10A fuse. I had a 60A breaker next to the battery, but had to remove it when it apparently went bad. The converter I installed charges at 50A, so the 60A breaker should not have tripped. Then it was tripping at 40A, 30A, etc. before I removed it. The alligator clips that came with it had a 10A inline fuse. My Renogy suitcase is 100 Watt and the Isc rating is 6.1A, so the 10A fuse should be okay.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 7:42am
Originally posted by StephenH

I just installed one in the extension cable that I made. It is going to be closer to the panel when it is in use. 

Sorry your breaker failed. Unless you were running a 6 gauge extension cord a 60A breaker wouldn't protect it anyway.  10A will be fine for that module. 

Just to be clear though, fuses and circuit breakers are there to protect from excessive currents coming from the source so they should be placed as close as possible to the source of the current. If you place your 10A fuse downstream from the battery then the wiring between the battery and the fuse is not protected. If you got a fault in that section of wire the fuse wouldn't know about the high current so it wouldn't clear the fault. You might consider moving the 10A fuse to the battery or adding a bolt on fuse right on the battery + terminal.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 9:36am
The fuse was placed near the battery and was on the line that went between the converter and the battery. Since the converter is on a breaker and since I have a 10A fuse now for the solar, I likely don't need the breaker that was near the battery. The BMS should also help protect the battery. I've found that the Frontier does not seem to be charging the battery so I ordered a Renogy DC to DC charger which I will install to be able to have the battery fully charged while we are traveling. This is the one I ordered: http://www.renogy.com/12v-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/ . The 20A model (DCC1212-20) is the one.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 10:30am
I think there is still some confusion on the purpose of fuses/circuit breakers in an electrical system. 

The purpose of fuses and CB's is to protect the system wires, not the battery, charger, or solar module. Same in your house, your panel cbs are there for the wires in your walls. The devices you hang on your circuits are supposed to be self protected, which in theory is assured because they carry UL listings.  

The battery can produce tons of current. As a thought experiment, place an imaginary short circuit in your wiring at different places in your system and see if one of your circuit breakers or fuses protects the wiring between your battery and the location of the short. If it doesn't then if you got an actual short at that location you could melt the wire insulation and have a fire, so you need to add a fuse or circuit breaker that protects that wiring from that. 

I haven't heard of a BMS that provides overcurrent protection. They are there to provide over and under voltage protection and cell voltage balancing. If the BMS did provide overcurrent protection that would be identified in the specs along with a current trip level.

Yeah a dc/dc converter is the way to go. Li batteries have a much narrower charging voltage window than lead acid batts so need a more stable voltage to charge properly. The one you're getting should work fine. Note that it needs a terminal to be brought to 12V to turn on. That is normally connected to your ignition so if you ever leave your ignition on with the engine off you could discharge your start battery pretty quickly. I'd be tempted to put a switch under my dash in that line so I could turn the dc dc converter on and off manually if I wanted to. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Subzilla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 10:42am
Thanks for the thorough explanation Offgrid. Makes total sense. Mark
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