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ouR escaPOD mods
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Pod People View Drop Down
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Posts: 1066 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Pod People Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: ouR escaPOD mods
    Posted: 29 Feb 2020 at 8:24am
INo, I did not use the zamp connector or the alligator clips.  I installed a standard 30 amp RV receptacle on the pod's exterior so that I use the 25' standard power cord that came with the pod.
Here is a post I made about 4 years ago detailing that installation.  There were several comments about the exposed terminals which I have changed. Otherwise, the installation  is basically the same as the article.
http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=8194&title=installing-a-renogy-100-watt-suitcase-solar-panel
hope this will help you
Vann

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Posts: 347 		Post Options Post Options   Quote geewizard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Feb 2020 at 8:27am
I don't use the Zamp connectors but I did make a 50-foot extension cable for my Renogy solar panel.  I used Anderson SB50 connectors:


and this cable:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IK4P6WU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And these weatherproof boots:


I use Anderson SB50 connectors throughout my RPod solar power system and completely avoid the Zamp wiring.  I connect my solar panel directly to the solar controller in my battery box on the tongue.
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Posts: 6288 		Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Feb 2020 at 12:01pm
Originally posted by offgrid

Ho long an extension cable do you want to make? You will need some reasonably heavy gauge conductors to keep the voltage drop down if it’s very long. For a single 100 watt module I’d use 10 gauge up to 40 feet, 8 AWG above that. The Zamp conductors needs to be counted as part of that distance so it’s probably better just not to use them if you want to run very long.
I ordered a 20' extension cable. That seemed to be a good compromise between length, weight, and cost. I am testing it now with the Zamp connector. I did have to use a gender changer, mainly because the MC4 to SAE adapter would have been feeding power to the wrong port. I could probably get in there and change the connectors around so that it will be correct for the current setup. I also ordered a kit so that I will be able to work with the MC4 connectors. When it gets here, I will be able to reverse the ones that have the reversed polarity and thus have the cable able to plug in directly instead of having to use gender changer. Other connectors will go to make a connector at the front of the RPod which will feed in through the heavier battery cables.

As for using the 30A power cord, I would prefer to leave that heavy thing stowed. I thought of taking a heavy duty 15A extension cord and modifying it. That way, I would only have one cable running between the panels and the RPod. To me, that would make more sense. I'm not sure why two cables, positive and negative, are not run in one jacket for use whith solar panels like this. To me, it would make a lot of sense. As it is, I will be using a lot of zip-ties to fasten the + and - cables together for easier management.

I like the Anderson Powerpole connectors and wish I had seen them and the boots earlier. I may order a few for the one  set of connectors I would like to make for the A frame connections.
StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Posts: 2628 		Post Options Post Options   Quote GlueGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Feb 2020 at 1:49pm
Originally posted by StephenH

I'm not sure why two cables, positive and negative, are not run in one jacket for use whith solar panels like this. To me, it would make a lot of sense. As it is, I will be using a lot of zip-ties to fasten the + and - cables together for easier management. 
Solar systems are wired in a very wide variety of configurations. We have solar sites with anywhere from one panel to 18 panels, all with different series/parallel configurations. The MC4 connectors are "fairly" standard, and they seem to be the ones on most of the panels we get these days.

I know that kit comes with a controller that can be configured for lithium batteries. is it by any chance an MPPT controller (I assume not, since it would be a "feature")?
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Posts: 6288 		Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Feb 2020 at 5:20pm
It is a Renogy Traveler Series: Voyager 20A Waterproof PWM Controller w/ LCD Display and LED Bar. It supports Lead-acid (Gel, AGM, Flooded, and Calcium) Lithium-ion (LiCoO2, LiMn2O4, LiNiMnCoO2, and LiNiCoAlo2), LiFePO4, and LTO (Li4Ti5O12) batteries. An MPPT controller would have added significant cost to the kit. I figure I can always upgrade later.
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Posts: 5290 		Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2020 at 8:09am
The vast majority of solar modules are used in large arrays and so are connected in series strings building the voltage up to near 600V or higher before parallel connections are made, and those parallel connections are done in a combiner box with fuses. So single conductor connectors are standard practice in the solar world. MC4 connectors became the standard about 10 years ago, and now almost all modules use them or more commonly "compatible" knock-offs from China, some of which are not all that "compatible", resulting in some serious field problems. 

For single module 12V battery charging the MC connector approach doesn't offer any advantages. By all means convert over to a two conductor cable (or 3 if you use a grounded extension cord).  You could just cut off the MC connectors, solder in butt splices, and heat shrink, but you would probably get an argument if you were ever to make a warranty claim on that module. 

Be sure to check the gauge of the extension cord if you go that route. A 15A cord is likely to only be 12 gauge or smaller, which is only going to be good for about 25 feet before you lose too much voltage. You'll want at least a 10 gauge cord.  Cut off both ends of the extension cord and either connect one end permanently (to the module or battery) or use dedicated connectors at both ends. Don't use the 120Vac connectors for 12Vdc so no one can get confused and connect the wrong stiff together. And don't try to use the MC's to make connections on a daily basis, they're not meant for that and also require a tool to disconnect which would be a PITA. Please do use a properly sized fuse at the battery end to protect that cord and the module. A 10AWG cord should be good for 30A but most modules are rated for 15A so a 15A fuse is a good choice. 

PWM controllers are fine for a 100 watt 12V module, if you go to one or more 250-350 watt residential/industrial modules those are high voltage so you need an MPPT controller to charge at 12V. Those module are so much cheaper per watt that its worth the extra expense for the MPPT at that point.  
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Posts: 1066 		Post Options Post Options   Quote Pod People Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2020 at 8:55am
I chose to use the existing 25' power cord because I did not want another extension long and heavy cord to carry.It seemed that if we were not hooked to  shore power, there was no need for that cord and it would be perfect gauge and length for the solar set up.Use what you have and don't take a lot of extra "stuff" was the idea.
As no one except myself or wife will be using or attaching it, I felt there was no issues using 120v cord for 12v application in this case. Granted, for most other, general uses this would not be a good idea.
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Posts: 5290 		Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2020 at 10:16am
As a professional system designer I of course have to follow the electric code and put safety first. But I've found that the rules are there for good reason, I've seen too many things go wrong. Generally when there are electrical fires its because someone took a shortcut or bent a rule, the argument being that a bad outcome wouldn't happen to them. 

Of course for your own use you can do whatever you want, but if you ever sell your trailer I'd suggest that you remove the capability to use that cord on the 12V system. 

The tendency to take shortcuts is especially true for 12 or 24 Vdc systems which folks often seem to think aren't dangerous because there isn't a shock hazard risk. One of the things I often see is lack of proper fuse protection on 12Vdc circuits. That I just don't get, there is the same or higher fire hazard risk from faults and shorts as there is in 120Vac circuits.  
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Posts: 2587 		Post Options Post Options   Quote lostagain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2020 at 1:39pm
Remember a spark from a 12v battery gets hot enough to melt metal.  So you need to be careful to make sure all your connections are well secured.

Pod People, how are you using your 25' power cord for your 12v dc system?  Did you make up some kind of a pigtail to use at the male/female ends of the power cord that you connect to your 12v system?  Have you calculated the voltage drop for that cable length and size?
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Posts: 6288 		Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2020 at 1:47pm
Originally posted by offgrid

The vast majority of solar modules are used in large arrays and so are connected in series strings building the voltage up to near 600V or higher before parallel connections are made, and those parallel connections are done in a combiner box with fuses. So single conductor connectors are standard practice in the solar world. MC4 connectors became the standard about 10 years ago, and now almost all modules use them or more commonly "compatible" knock-offs from China, some of which are not all that "compatible", resulting in some serious field problems.
Now I understand the logic behind the separate conductors. Thanks.

For single module 12V battery charging the MC connector approach doesn't offer any advantages. By all means convert over to a two conductor cable (or 3 if you use a grounded extension cord).  You could just cut off the MC connectors, solder in butt splices, and heat shrink, but you would probably get an argument if you were ever to make a warranty claim on that module.
I think I would fabricate an adapter cable instead so I would not have to modify the existing wiring. Is there any problem just using the adapter and SAE connectors for those which need to be plugged and unplugged? I like the PowerPole ones also from what I see, but have not seen any up close to see if they are better for my use. I would want something waterproof, but couldn't find the full-cover boots on Amazon. They seem to only be available from Anderson's web site.

Be sure to check the gauge of the extension cord if you go that route. A 15A cord is likely to only be 12 gauge or smaller, which is only going to be good for about 25 feet before you lose too much voltage. You'll want at least a 10 gauge cord.  Cut off both ends of the extension cord and either connect one end permanently (to the module or battery) or use dedicated connectors at both ends. Don't use the 120Vac connectors for 12Vdc so no one can get confused and connect the wrong stiff together. And don't try to use the MC's to make connections on a daily basis, they're not meant for that and also require a tool to disconnect which would be a PITA. Please do use a properly sized fuse at the battery end to protect that cord and the module. A 10AWG cord should be good for 30A but most modules are rated for 15A so a 15A fuse is a good choice.
I would definitely look for a 10 gauge extension if I went that route. As it is, I ordered a 10 gauge extension set that is 20' long. They are the separate cables that I will have to figure out how to tie together. I will still want to add a quick disconnect though for the reason you cite. The best I can tell, the Voyager is rated for 20A, but the panel's maximum Short Circuit Current (Isc) is 6.1A and Maximum Power Current (Imp) is 5.68A according to the specifications.

PWM controllers are fine for a 100 watt 12V module, if you go to one or more 250-350 watt residential/industrial modules those are high voltage so you need an MPPT controller to charge at 12V. Those module are so much cheaper per watt that its worth the extra expense for the MPPT at that point.  
I think it will be quite a while before I go for more modules and would need the MPPT controller then. Thanks for the very detailed reply.
StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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