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ouR escaPOD mods

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StephenH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: ouR escaPOD mods
    Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 3:40pm
The angle iron is welded to the square tubing with no openings on the bottom so that would not be a route of entry. I will check to make sure that there is ventilation. I already put foam in so I may end up having to cut it out. I should have waited. Oh well, live and learn. Ouch
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 4:52pm
I think a lot of this is creating a problem that’s not there. We both primed and painted our angles and axles prior to installation so any corrosion issues will only occur after that coating is compromised. The corrosion protection of the rpod frame is poor at best so other problems are likely to surface first. I just had to completely grind and recoat my A frame because the coating was pretty much gone on it.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Olddawgsrule Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2019 at 1:21pm
Originally posted by StephenH

The angle iron is welded to the square tubing with no openings on the bottom so that would not be a route of entry. I will check to make sure that there is ventilation. I already put foam in so I may end up having to cut it out. I should have waited. Oh well, live and learn. Ouch

If I read this correctly, you welded the ends closed?
Don't know if I would have done that.. unless the entire angle was welded on.. and I don't think I would do that either.

Not being a ME of any sort, my mind says the axle and the support should be able to react independent of each other, each doing what they can to assist each other.

I really like this! And really like having more smarter friends than I!



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StephenH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2019 at 1:33pm
No, the ends on the main angle are not welded. I welded tabs on the sides of the angle, but only am using them for the U bolts I am using and then it is only to hold them in place. The angle is clamped pretty tight to the axle as it should not be slipping. That would put it at risk of slipping into the way of and interfering with the arms. My clamping tube and angle is done this way: I notched the square tubing to the shape of the smaller angle I am using for the top clamp. The angle is welded into this notch. That is what is sealed. The angle, not being pierced, does not give a place for water to leak in between the angle and the axle. I did fill the square tube with foam, partly to keep water out and partly to keep wasps or other pests out of the tubes. I did paint everything before doing this.
StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov 2019 at 4:31pm
The latest modification is not to the 'Pod itself, but to the electrical system. I found the Huges Autoformers on sale on Amazon and just ordered the 30A version. I saw one of them being used at the Kentucky MiniMini, but the $400+ price put me off. However, the sale price of $339.70 is much more to my liking.

Edit: The Autoformer arrived today. It is quite heavy for its size. One good thing about it is that if the surge protection is used up (indicated by a light), it can be renewed, unlike surge protectors that just get thrown away.
StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 8:25pm
Time for another modification. No pictures yet, but I am going to start this write-up.

After thinking about it and realizing that the travel we have done with dual 6V GC2 batteries puts a lot of stress on the A frame (The batteries together weigh about 120 lbs.), and seeing that prices on LiFePO4 batteries are coming down from the stratosphere, I decided that it was time to convert from the GC2 batteries to an LiFePO4 battery. The two batteries I have are 215AH batteries. Since they are flooded cell, I effectively have a little over 100AH of usable power. I was researching batteries, thinking I would purchase a Battle Born 100AH LiFePO4 battery, but they are still over $900. (Battle Born will give a military discount if anyone wants to purchase from them.). I came across a listing on Amazon for an Expert Power battery. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X4Z8FML/ This battery has some pretty good specs and like the Battle Born battery, has an expected 10 year lifetime. The current price is $789.99. I happened to hit it when a coupon code was available, so I paid less.

It isn't just a simple switch though. Along with this comes the need to have a charger that can properly charge the LiFePO4 battery. The charging profile is not the same as for Lead-Acid batteries. So, the stock WFCO 8955 converter will not properly charge it. WFCO does make a replacement converter section that is a drop-in replacement for the 8955 Main Board. It is the WF-8950L2-MBA. It is a 2 stage charger which does not have a float charge. This is because the LiFePO4 batteries have a very low (@3%/month) self-discharge rate. This, coupled with the battery's built-in Battery Management System (BMS) should work to keep the battery charged and ready.

The third piece of this puzzle is a way to monitor the battery. Simple voltage won't work since the discharge profile of LiFePO4 is almost flat until it is almost fully discharged. If you have ever used Lithium AA batteries, you can see this. Things work great and just suddenly die when the battery is drained. The BMS will shut down the battery before the battery is discharged so much that it would be damaged as well as stopping it from being overcharged, but it still does not inform of the state-of-charge. So, I looked and got sticker shock at the prices of the Victron equipment. Fortunately, I found a more reasonable solution again. It is an AiLi Voltmeter/Ammeter/Voltage Current Meter and claims to be a kind of "fuel gauge" for the battery.

The battery and meter should be arriving this week. The converter has already arrived and has been installed. It isn't any different in appearance than the previous board, so I will only post a picture to illustrate some of the wiring changes. Part of the modification is removing the batteries from the tongue and relocating the new battery to the compartment I constructed in one of my early mods (see:  http:////www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712&PID=72849&title=our-escapod-mods#72849 ). The smaller compartment next to the wardrobe is where the new battery will reside. Since LiFePO4 does not require ventilation and since it does better at more even temperatures, that looked like a better location than outside.

Of course, the relocation means new wiring. I purchased some AWG 4 gauge wire, only to realize that it was rated for 90C. The other wiring in the RPod is rated for 105C. Plus, I wanted to differentiate between the positive and negative wires, so i drove down to Raleigh to the AutoZone next to their distribution center and purchased 10 feet of Red AWG 4 Gauge 105C wire and 10 feet of black wire (white was not available).

After removing the power center (power disconnected and batteries also disconnected, I fished the wires under the bath and wardrobe along the space where the other wires and water lines were run. I can't connect the battery or meter until they arrive, but I did install the new main board. The existing positive cable to the original battery needs to stay connected so I will have power at the tongue to operate the jack. Otherwise, I would have disconnected it and left it in case I reverted the system back some day. The new negative wire runs to the block where all the other negative and the ground wire from the converter are connected. All other wiring remains the same. After connecting the jack's wire and the Zamp wire to the battery cable up front, I wrapped all of them with lots of electrical tape to keep the connection from shorting. I will tie it to the framing to keep it attractive and keep it from falling and scraping along the road.

I ordered one more item. I needed a way to put terminals on the battery cable so I ordered a TEMCo Hammer Lug Crimper, which arrived and has been put to use to attach a terminal lug to the negative terminal (had to test it). I still need to put one on the positive cable, but I am waiting until the battery arrives. I also need to figure out where to mount my battery cut-off switch.

That is what I have done so far. Pictures will follow when I get the battery installed. The meter will be temporarily installed next to the battery as I have an extension data cable on order that won't arrive for 2 or 3 weeks (coming from South Korea). Then it will get mounted next to the current monitor panel in place of the voltmeter I currently have there.


StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 9:43pm
StephenH, good to hear you are taking the step into the Li battery world. I like the location you selected. Do be sure the battery is above 32F before attempting to charge it. Unlike lead acid, it won’t hurt to leave it disconnected when it’s in winter storage.

May I suggest for safety adding a bolt on fuse at the + battery terminal? Also, if you are using solar you will need a charge controller configured for Li battery charging. Finally, what are your plans for charging via your tow vehicle, if any?

Keep us posted on your progress.
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Ben Herman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Ben Herman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 9:57pm
StephenH - interesting mod. One thing that I am not clear on is the reasoning for going in this direction. Seems like a pretty hefty investment; what are the benefits that you are expecting?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2020 at 7:35am
One big benefit is weight savings. 120 lbs vs. 30 lbs. Given that the axles on the larger RPods have marginal capacity at best, this will be a good thing. I've already had one bent axle. That gets expensive. Another benefit is that by moving the battery inside, it will be more secure. A third benefit is that it will give me a place (with a future mod) to put either my Generac iX2000 generator which I will want to carry on a long trip we have planned for this coming spring or extra gasoline, both for the generator or as backup for the truck since we don't know what the gas station situation will be heading up into Canada and Alaska. If we opt for gasoline, the generator will ride in the bed of the truck.

As for charging with the truck, I had not gotten quite that far. I don't currently have solar. I was looking at possibly installing a battery isolation manager such as that from Battle Born. The fuse is a good idea. What size/type do you recommend? Would one like this work? https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Line-Fuse-Holder/dp/B01N9M4OI1/
StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2020 at 8:16am
The rule with fuses and circuit breakers is to always size them smaller than the max current rating (the ampacity) of the conductor that the fuse is protecting, but at least 25% higher than the max current you will ever normally draw through that conductor. The 25% is to avoid nuisance cb trips or fuse blows.

In your case, the ampacity of 4awg 105C wire is 95A so that sets your upper limit for fuse selection. You’ll need to set your lower limit based on what you plan to hang on your 12V buss, but if you just have the normal RPod dc loads we know that 40 amps handles them fine. So 50A is probably your lower limit unless you’re adding an inverter or something.

So any 12V rated fuse or cb between 50 and 95A will work. Personally, I prefer to stay at the lower end of the allowable range, I’d rather have a fuse blow sooner rather than later if there is a problem. If you get a fuse rather than a breaker be sure to order a spare.

I’ll take a look at battle borne’s battery isolator.



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