water pump - Event Date: 06 Oct 2015 |
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Lauralee
Newbie Joined: 18 Jun 2014 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 4 |
Calendar Event: water pump Posted: 10 Jun 2015 at 11:24pm |
Hi, my first post on the forum! I was de-winterizing and changed the valves, turned on the pump and waited for the hot water tank to fill and it appears it did not and water is just sputtering out of the faucets. The pump doesn't sound right, either. Only the one by the water heater sounds like it is running and the one that usually makes noise under the sink is not making any noise. I am really hoping I did not do something that damaged the pump. It was working when I first started draining the pink stuff. I think I remember the valve accessed outside the tank (outside the RV) releasing water and mine is just releasing air, so it appears the tank is not filling in addition to the pump not running. I plan to check the valves again tomorrow but appreciate any help! My model is the 171.
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Tars Tarkas
Senior Member Joined: 14 Jan 2013 Location: Near Nashville Online Status: Offline Posts: 1446 |
Posted: 11 Jun 2015 at 1:26am |
Sounds like the winterizing valve is open. The one under the sink, connected to a short hose used for sucking in antifreeze. Make sure that's closed.
The rest of your story is a bit confusing. Is the potable water tank full? What valve are you talking about outside the RV? Which tank isn't filling? And there is only one pump. It sounds like you are saying there is one by the WH and one under the sink. Check the valve under the sink with the 2-foot suction hose. Make sure it's closed. Fill the potable tank, turn on the hot and cold water in the sink and bathroom and let the hot run until all air is gone. The water filling the hot water tank has to push 6 gallons of air out of the tank before you will get nothing but water out of the tap, so it can take 2 or 3 minutes. Welcome, by the way! If my advice is wrong or confusing, let us know. If you've looked around here much you should see that you will most likely get your problem solved here. TT |
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2010 176
FJ Cruiser |
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Lauralee
Newbie Joined: 18 Jun 2014 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 4 |
Posted: 11 Jun 2015 at 7:13am |
Thanks so much! I will try as soon as I get home from work today and let you know!
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Lauralee
Newbie Joined: 18 Jun 2014 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 4 |
Posted: 11 Jun 2015 at 11:29pm |
I checked the hose for the antifreeze and it was open, so once I closed it and then let the tank fill, my pump sounded normal again and the water came out normally! On my model there is a release valve outside the RV that will release all the water in the tank for winterizing. Now that valve is releasing water, yay! I am sanitizing right now and tomorrow will flush it all, add fresh water and be on my way! Thanks so much for your help!
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Tars Tarkas
Senior Member Joined: 14 Jan 2013 Location: Near Nashville Online Status: Offline Posts: 1446 |
Posted: 12 Jun 2015 at 12:37am |
Thanks for reporting back! It's always good to know a problem was solved!!
TT |
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2010 176
FJ Cruiser |
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 12 Jun 2015 at 9:26am |
Great!
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Q7-retired
Senior Member Joined: 26 Dec 2014 Location: Pittsboro, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 100 |
Posted: 12 Jun 2015 at 9:25pm |
I learned about that winterizing valve today the hard way, just like Lauralee. Since I have no idea where are the fresh water check valves, and since I deeply mistrust open hoses, I put a ball valve inline with the suction valve. Now I KNOW it's safe!
Where should I have been able to read about the valve? I can't find anything in any manual about it. Oh, by the way, I also hate the wasp nest I found in the water heater external access. There is now preventive screen to frustrate those biters. Since Darling Wife is allergic, I have to weigh the reduced air flow against medical risk. I've used expanded metal sheeting, cut to shape, in the refrigerator air vents. How would one gauge whether air flow is insufficient? thanks again to the forum for all the help! Jim |
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furpod
Moderator Group - pHp Joined: 25 Jul 2011 Location: Central KY Online Status: Offline Posts: 6128 |
Posted: 13 Jun 2015 at 7:26am |
Your dealer should have told you about the winterization valve, and how to use it. Other than that.. well.. the internet.
Your added ball valve won't hurt a thing, but also doesn't help a thing. The check valve is built into the front of the pump housing. If the winteriztion valve is closed, it's a closed system. If it's open, no harm, as has been seen by many owners who filled tanks and/or used pods a lot, before discovering it. As far as air flow and the fridge.. if it doesn't cool well now, the issue could be airflow. If you have a problem, add another pancake fan. |
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 13 Jun 2015 at 10:56am |
Q7, that is why we started the online "manual" here. See the link in my signature.
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Q7-retired
Senior Member Joined: 26 Dec 2014 Location: Pittsboro, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 100 |
Posted: 13 Jun 2015 at 11:47am |
Doug, thanks for this. I read the sections that mention the suction hose. Not to
say I'm an expert, but my experience with check valves makes me glad I
added the positive closure.
I can't find the low point drains, except for teh fresh water tank drain. Can you please point me to them? I appreciate the help! |
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Best regards, Jim
2015-RP178 TV 2015 Audi Q7 TDI and 2017 Ford F150 At home in "Our Pod" |
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