Important - check this every time you set up

Originally posted by Beachguysc I will definitely use this method next time we hook up.  On our August trip, our last stop was at a family members. We got power from a proper outdoor extension cord.  At the end of the trip I was hooking up the trailer and wdh. I got shocking a sensation.  It wasn’t enough to hurt or jolt, but I couldn’t hold on to the bare metal For more than a few seconds.   Nothing was on in the trailer at this time, but we were still connected with the cord.  Our host said he wasn’t Sure if the outlet we used was grounded properly. Are those symptoms of an exterior issue like outlet not grounded? Or is there something within the trailer that would cause this?

It was either the cord or the outlet that had an open ground. You can get a tester that plugs into outlets (or cords) and tells you if there is an open ground or if the outlet isn't wired properly.

Originally posted by Pilot I have a tester for 110 outlets. If that showed an open ground at pedastal would that also mean that the 30 amp plug in has an open groung too?

Either that, or a bad cord between the pedestal and R-pod. Those are the usual culprits. There could also be a wiring problem in the R-pod, but that would hopefully be rare.

Klein tools are top of the line but if you want to save a little money, there is this from Amazon.  Also available at Lowes brick and mortar.  I've been happy with it.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ICSW4QK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TT

Originally posted by GlueGuy That's within a buck of what I paid for the Klein.

It has gone way up on Amazon!  I paid $79.95 and now it's what, $114.99!  I imagine that says more about Amazon's pricing strategies than the soaring reputation of this clamp meter!  It does seem to be a very good one though.  And maybe Lowe's hasn't jacked up their price.

TT

If you test ANY part of the RV's frame, you've pretty must tested ALL of it. That's because the entire RV frame and chassis is bonded to practically everything else in the RV. So if you point your NCVT at the wheel or lug nuts that will certainly indicate if there's a hot-skin voltage. Same goes for the tow hitch, propane tanks, door frame, and yes, metal skin.

Also, your tow vehicle is bonded to the RV chassis via the hitch, safety chains, and electrical plug. So if you're connected to an RV which has a hot-skin voltage, then your tow vehicle will also have a hot-skin voltage. Now you see why I don't like the word "hot-skin" which implies it's only the skin of the RV that's energized. In reality, it's the CHASSIS of the RV that's been electrically energized, and everything that's bonded to it (just about everything metal inside of, on, or connected to your RV) will go along for the ride and be electrically energized with a "hot-skin" voltage.

Mike Sokol
No~Shock~Zone