Upgraded to Camplite 21RBS

I suppose you could cut the threaded end off of an anode rod and just shove it inside, but you wouldn't be able to check how much of it is left.

You must be right about the electrical connection, else why call it an anode, but then what about teflon tape around the threads?  Interesting question.

I haven't checked the anode in my home water heater since it was installed.  Not sure how long that's been.  A while...  I have thought to look at Lowe's, where I got the WH, and they either don't have any anodes or a very limited selection that doesn't include the one I need.  They seem to be a very low priority item in the big box home DIY stores.  Makes one wonder how important they really are.  I'm sure the stores would rather sell water heaters than anodes, so there's that too.

TT

We are back to the manufacturer's claim that the reducer has a built-in anode.  Hott Rods have been around for a few decades so they should have perfected the anode portion of their product. 

Tars Tarka brings up another good point about household water heater anodes seem to live forever. I have experienced the same thing.  I might add that I have been RVing for about 50 years and have never had to replace an anode.  I guess the life of an anode varies greatly depending on the water used in an area.

I think the manufacturer is the best source of detailed information about their built-in anode.

Originally posted by hogone confused...............what electrical connection on a anode rode is there............at least mine doesn't have one......maybe im missing something

It isn't 12 or 120 volts, it is a microvolt flow of electrons from the chemical reactions taking place between the anode rod, the water, and the walls of the water heater.

Also.. if you live where the water is soft.. like Florida, an anode doesn't have much to do. If you live where I do, and the "water" is really just very very fine rocks, the anode does a whole lot. In our home water heater, I change out the anode every 4 years. The box stores don't have them, because most home owners do no PM on their homes. They would rather just buy a new WH when the old one fills with scale. But ALL the plumbing supply houses have them. No confusion about it when you walk up to the counter either.

For my reef aquarium, make up and top off water quality is very important, so I monitor our water. "Hard water" starts at 121mg/L, "very hard" is above 181mg/L. Ours fluctuates a bit through the year, and right now it's a bit "softer" than normal, when proccessing water Monday, my incoming water was around 385mg/L. I run a 6 stage RO/DI system I custom built to bring it down to 0-2mg/L. (my meter has a 2 point measurement.)

Monthly I open the flush valve on our WH and get a 1/2 cup or so of scale out. It used to be worse, but I lowered our tank temperature from 140F to 120F and that helped some.