Low point drain 178 - Event Date: 10 Nov 2013 - 30 Nov 2013 |
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dsmiths
Senior Member Joined: 10 Oct 2011 Location: Southern Ind Online Status: Offline Posts: 866 |
Calendar Event: Low point drain 178 Posted: 10 Nov 2013 at 7:49pm |
I am with Keith N Dar, I use a blow out plug to clean the pressure water inlet but then I go under the sink, switch the valve on the water pump and pump the pink r.v. antifreeze through the system. this is after you take out the anode rod on the water heater, replace or retape it and switch the bypass valves on the water heater. It only takes about 30 to 50 minutes to winterize the system and it sure beats making expensive plumbing repairs. sleep tight little pod. spring is around the corner.
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Dane and Donna Smith
2011 RP-172 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer 4X4 lift kit prodigy wireless brake controller |
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Tars Tarkas
Senior Member Joined: 14 Jan 2013 Location: Near Nashville Online Status: Offline Posts: 1446 |
Posted: 10 Nov 2013 at 7:47pm |
Undiluted RV antifreeze is supposed to protect pipes to minus 50. I don't know how well it mixes in the bottom of a still pipe. Probably well enough. But due to their location and purpose, the low point drains are probably the most susceptible to freeze damage of any thing on the pod. If the drains do burst they'd be cheap to fix. Maybe a little trouble, dealing with insulation. How do you flush the antifreeze without opening the low point drains though? TT |
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2010 176
FJ Cruiser |
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Keith-N-Dar
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 03 Apr 2011 Location: Mayville, WI Online Status: Offline Posts: 1447 |
Posted: 10 Nov 2013 at 6:48pm |
Being neurotic about freezing up the Pod I blow the system out then pump the pink stuff. I want to be sure that no water is standing anywhere to freeze. I know folks that blow out the system and don't use the pink stuff and have no problems, and those who pump the pink stuff through and don't blow out the water first and have no problems.
I have never opened the low point drains other than the one on the water tank. The air and the pink stuff takes care of the low points in the lines for me. |
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Keith-N-Dar
Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
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fwunder
Senior Member Joined: 04 Oct 2013 Location: New Jersey Online Status: Offline Posts: 1676 |
Posted: 10 Nov 2013 at 6:09pm |
This is my first winter with our Pod or any RV for that matter. This all great info. Thanks!
I know it's been discussed many times, but wouldn't draining the system and blowing low pressure air through the system via city water inlet be sufficient in all but the coldest of climes? Oh, and adding a little pink stuff to the sink and shower traps. I don't see any problem with leaving some small amount of liquid in any of the tanks. There is plenty of room for expansion. Of course, this assumes you have access to compressor and can regulate the pressure. I cobbled together a hookup w/regulator which allows me to evacuate the fresh water lines w/20 psi. Is it still necessary to pump pink stuff through the lines? Need schematic of system. I am sure Pink stuff would be a lot easier if you don't have access to air blowout stuff. I know my hodge podge of hardware below is overkill, but I just happened to have the parts sitting around. I blow @ 20 psi until nothing but air out of faucets and toilet. EDIT: After writing the above, I came across this link which indicates that I should either run the pump dry or (easier) pump a little pink stuff through the pump: http://www.rvupgradestore.com/Articles.asp?ID=252 |
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2014 RPod 178 => MyMods and Buying Habits
2008 4Runner Limited 4.0-liter V6 Yes, those are wild ponies dining on grass while dumping tanks! |
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Jdub
Groupie Joined: 17 Mar 2013 Online Status: Offline Posts: 94 |
Posted: 10 Nov 2013 at 4:23pm |
My 178 has three....two clustered together for hot and cold water, and the fresh water tank itself. I did overkill by pouring antifreeze into the freshwater tank and pumping it around including throught the hot and cold drains until they ran red as well. We don't drink out of the fresh water tank so I am not too concerned about having antifreeze in it.
Hope this helps.
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Tars Tarkas
Senior Member Joined: 14 Jan 2013 Location: Near Nashville Online Status: Offline Posts: 1446 |
Posted: 10 Nov 2013 at 4:01pm |
Yeah, it's not about the model, it's about the systems. If you have a fresh water storage tank and hot water and cold running water, each system has a drain.
Just draining is good, but at least depending on how cold your winters are, antifreeze is better, and it's cheap. Way cheaper and less hassle than a broken pipe or pump. TT |
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2010 176
FJ Cruiser |
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Lefty
Groupie Joined: 24 Jul 2013 Location: Pittsboro, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 62 |
Posted: 10 Nov 2013 at 2:51pm |
Thanks Furpod
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furpod
Moderator Group - pHp Joined: 25 Jul 2011 Location: Central KY Online Status: Offline Posts: 6128 |
Posted: 10 Nov 2013 at 12:18pm |
Yes, they all have 3 drains. If you used anti freeze, then the low points for the hot/cold lines *may* be okay, due to dilution.. but I would go out and find them and open them. make sure pink stuff drains out. In fact, I would just open them and let as much drain out as wants to. Then call it good.
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Lefty
Groupie Joined: 24 Jul 2013 Location: Pittsboro, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 62 |
Posted: 10 Nov 2013 at 11:22am |
Furpod and Kymooses,
One of you has 177 the other 181. Do all models have more than one low point drain othet than the FW tank? I winterized yesterday using the antifreeze method. So, if I missed a drain other than the FW drain should I go back and find the other drain (s)? Thanks for your help. |
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furpod
Moderator Group - pHp Joined: 25 Jul 2011 Location: Central KY Online Status: Offline Posts: 6128 |
Posted: 10 Nov 2013 at 11:12am |
There will be three. 1 on the FW holding tank, and 2 for the water lines, 1 hot, 1 cold. Those lines will be below the slide, behind the wheel. They may, or may not, be covered in foam before you use them.
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