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Topic ClosedSlide out on the 178
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asreichler View Drop Down
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Joined: 30 Jul 2013
Location: austin tx
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Posts: 35 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Slide out on the 178
    Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 1:02pm
I just got my 178 a few days ago and have started the process of getting to know it. I removed the two panels under the sink area to see what was under there. Not the neatest job of routing wires and plumbing but not the worst. I was looking at the slide out motor assembly and have not figured a way to get a wrench on the nut for manual movement. I also noted the rack has no lub on it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks Allen
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Kickstart View Drop Down
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Joined: 20 Sep 2010
Location: Ocean Shores, W
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Posts: 267 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 2:33pm
I have had good luck with Tri Flow for the gear assembly, and 303 Aerospace Protectorant for the rubber seals around the slide. They are both quality products (albeit not cheap!) for use on trailers, bikes, motorcycles and cars. Camco and other R/V product companies also make specific products for the slide seals and gears.
'10 RP 175-Replaced by 2014 Kodiak 173 QBSL
'12 Toyota Tundra
'05 Sportster (half a Harley)
Retired-We're on Beach Time!
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Keith-N-Dar View Drop Down
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Joined: 03 Apr 2011
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Posts: 1447 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 7:43pm
Try the crank for the stabilizer jacks on the bolt.
Keith-N-Dar
Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers)
2011 R-Pod 177
2010 Ford F-150
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Bill-GA View Drop Down
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Posts: 214 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 8:25pm
Originally posted by Keith-N-Dar

Try the crank for the stabilizer jacks on the bolt.
Anyone who uses the crank is crazy! First thing I did was buy a crank bit for my spare drill.  I set/raise my 4 stabilizers in 60 secs. It comes with me on EVERY trip. The fact that the crank doesn't have collars over its crank and back (my version doesn't) makes it almost unusable.
Bill & Bev
13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa'
2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out)
2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV
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asreichler View Drop Down
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Joined: 30 Jul 2013
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Posts: 35 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 8:46pm
The problem is not what tool to use but how to get at the nut. When I opened the panel ,under the sink the nut is behind a piece of cabinet that is not removable. If you own a 178 and know how to reach the nut I would like to hear what I am not seeing.
Tks Allen
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Posts: 1446 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 9:51pm
Originally posted by asreichler

I was looking at the slide out motor assembly and have not figured a way to get a wrench on the nut for manual movement. I also noted the rack has no lub on it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.


I had glanced at this before and I remember thinking getting any sort of wrench on that nut would be a pain, but I figured I'd cross that bridge if I ever came to it and forgot about it.  Your question made me go out and look again.

My drive nut is offset behind the pull-off panel.  There is no way to get anything other than a flat wrench or ratchet on the nut without cutting some of the paneling under the drawers out of the way.  This seems like very poor engineering to me.

Fortunately, it will only take a tiny bit of cutting to create a straight path for either a cordless drill with the right socket, or the stabilizer crank.  I can cut little more out of the bottom panel and still have the hole hidden by the cover panel.  I shouldn't complain.  I'm fairly adept at dealing with these things, but not everyone is.  I imagine this is the kind of thing that might cost someone a few hundred dollars for a service call when all it takes to fix is less than a minute with a coping saw or less than that in proper planning and construction in the first place.

My gears are dry too.  I might put a little white grease on them but I don't know whether they really need anything.  They are big, slow moving gears.  Not much heat from friction during use.

I also recommend carrying a cordless drill for the slide, if needed, and for the stabilizer jacks.  Way more fun than the hand crank!

TT
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asreichler View Drop Down
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Posts: 35 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 10:06pm
I think I will try a ratchet box wrench before I start cutting wood. I also will bring this up to my dealer when I return for other start up problems. Does you slide have any type of limit switch or do you just stop pushing the switch when the motor starts making stalling noise?
Allen
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Craneman View Drop Down
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Posts: 387 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 10:20pm
My 2010 174 has a panel that has to be removed to get to the nut. A little measuring and a 3 inch hole saw makes a perfect path for my 3/4 in socket with 3/8 cordless drill

     Moe
Jo and Gary, 2010-174,2011 F150

Jo and Gary
2010 174
2011 Ford 150



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Keith-N-Dar View Drop Down
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Joined: 03 Apr 2011
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Posts: 1447 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 10:29pm
Apparently, unknown to me, FR has changed the slide between the 177 and the 178. Excuse me for trying to help.

And Bill, I also use my drill for the jacks, but don't know if everyone has that option. When I got my walk around the dealer told me to use the crank, so I was passing that on. I don't think I am crazy to pass that information on, even if it is not appreciated.
Keith-N-Dar
Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers)
2011 R-Pod 177
2010 Ford F-150
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asreichler View Drop Down
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Joined: 30 Jul 2013
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Posts: 35 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 10:32pm
do you drill thru the panel or is your nut not hidden by permanent frame as mine is? the nut is about one inch to the right of the permanent frame.
Allen
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