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Craneman
Senior Member
Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Tokeland,wa
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 387
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Topic: Slide out on the 178 Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 11:09pm |
Just went out and looked and the nut is about 1 1/2 in to the right of the metal brace. Keep in mind my slide out has the couch. Moe
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Jo and Gary, 2010-174,2011 F150
Jo and Gary
2010 174
2011 Ford 150
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Bill-GA
Senior Member
Joined: 13 Jan 2012
Location: Cumming, GA
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Posts: 214
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Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 10:53pm |
Keith-N-Dar, I didn't mean my comments as a ding on your armor. My apologies if it came across as that ... I was just remembering the frustration I had when I thought the crank was what I should use. It was a really painful ordeal for an old guy bending over .... the bit and drill was an epiphany!
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Bill & Bev
13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa'
2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out)
2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV
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asreichler
Newbie
Joined: 30 Jul 2013
Location: austin tx
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Posts: 35
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Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 10:49pm |
Keith-n-Dar thanks for the info. I was concerned about using a drill for setting the stabilizers because it is so easy to lift the rig with them. I found I was lifting the front just trying to set them by hand. Do you set a limiter on the drill? Another reason I use the crank and the manual landing jack in front it is the only exercise I get. Allen
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2014 178 TV 2004 Dodge 2500 deisel
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asreichler
Newbie
Joined: 30 Jul 2013
Location: austin tx
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Posts: 35
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Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 10:32pm |
do you drill thru the panel or is your nut not hidden by permanent frame as mine is? the nut is about one inch to the right of the permanent frame. Allen
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Keith-N-Dar
podders Helping podders - pHp
Joined: 03 Apr 2011
Location: Mayville, WI
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Posts: 1447
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Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 10:29pm |
Apparently, unknown to me, FR has changed the slide between the 177 and the 178. Excuse me for trying to help.
And Bill, I also use my drill for the jacks, but don't know if everyone has that option. When I got my walk around the dealer told me to use the crank, so I was passing that on. I don't think I am crazy to pass that information on, even if it is not appreciated.
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Keith-N-Dar
Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers)
2011 R-Pod 177
2010 Ford F-150
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Craneman
Senior Member
Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Tokeland,wa
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 387
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Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 10:20pm |
My 2010 174 has a panel that has to be removed to get to the nut. A little measuring and a 3 inch hole saw makes a perfect path for my 3/4 in socket with 3/8 cordless drill
Moe
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Jo and Gary, 2010-174,2011 F150
Jo and Gary
2010 174
2011 Ford 150
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asreichler
Newbie
Joined: 30 Jul 2013
Location: austin tx
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 35
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Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 10:06pm |
I think I will try a ratchet box wrench before I start cutting wood. I also will bring this up to my dealer when I return for other start up problems. Does you slide have any type of limit switch or do you just stop pushing the switch when the motor starts making stalling noise? Allen
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Tars Tarkas
Senior Member
Joined: 14 Jan 2013
Location: Near Nashville
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Posts: 1446
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Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 9:51pm |
Originally posted by asreichler
I was looking at the slide out motor assembly and have not figured a way to get a wrench on the nut for manual movement. I also noted the rack has no lub on it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. |
I had glanced at this before and I remember thinking getting any sort of wrench on that nut would be a pain, but I figured I'd cross that bridge if I ever came to it and forgot about it. Your question made me go out and look again. My drive nut is offset behind the pull-off panel. There is no way to get anything other than a flat wrench or ratchet on the nut without cutting some of the paneling under the drawers out of the way. This seems like very poor engineering to me. Fortunately, it will only take a tiny bit of cutting to create a straight path for either a cordless drill with the right socket, or the stabilizer crank. I can cut little more out of the bottom panel and still have the hole hidden by the cover panel. I shouldn't complain. I'm fairly adept at dealing with these things, but not everyone is. I imagine this is the kind of thing that might cost someone a few hundred dollars for a service call when all it takes to fix is less than a minute with a coping saw or less than that in proper planning and construction in the first place. My gears are dry too. I might put a little white grease on them but I don't know whether they really need anything. They are big, slow moving gears. Not much heat from friction during use. I also recommend carrying a cordless drill for the slide, if needed, and for the stabilizer jacks. Way more fun than the hand crank! TT
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asreichler
Newbie
Joined: 30 Jul 2013
Location: austin tx
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Posts: 35
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Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 8:46pm |
The problem is not what tool to use but how to get at the nut. When I opened the panel ,under the sink the nut is behind a piece of cabinet that is not removable. If you own a 178 and know how to reach the nut I would like to hear what I am not seeing. Tks Allen
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Bill-GA
Senior Member
Joined: 13 Jan 2012
Location: Cumming, GA
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 214
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Posted: 03 Aug 2013 at 8:25pm |
Originally posted by Keith-N-Dar
Try the crank for the stabilizer jacks on the bolt.
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Anyone who uses the crank is crazy! First thing I did was buy a crank bit for my spare drill. I set/raise my 4 stabilizers in 60 secs. It comes with me on EVERY trip. The fact that the crank doesn't have collars over its crank and back (my version doesn't) makes it almost unusable.
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Bill & Bev
13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa'
2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out)
2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV
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