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Craneman 
Senior Member 
Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Tokeland,wa Online Status: Offline Posts: 387 |
 Topic: Don't ignore your bearings!Posted: 25 May 2013 at 2:00pm |
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OK OK OK thanks for the reminder. I noticed what looked like road tar on my left wheel wheel it wasn't. I pulled the wheel and ended up replacing bearings and the bad seal. Haven't even used it yet. Shure glad it didn't go bad when bringing it home thanks again for the reminder.
Moe
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Jo and Gary, 2010-174,2011 F150
Jo and Gary 2010 174 2011 Ford 150 |
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Thinker
Senior Member
Joined: 25 Feb 2013 Location: S. Mississippi Online Status: Offline Posts: 171 |
Posted: 14 May 2013 at 5:44pm |
That is a good rule of thumb on the castle nut. |
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Tow Vehicle: 2013 Pathfinder 4WD R-POD Model 171
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Goose
Senior Member
Joined: 24 Sep 2010 Location: Arizona Online Status: Offline Posts: 672 |
Posted: 14 May 2013 at 1:59pm |
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Anthony you are right on about every time that you stop for gas put a hand on the tire and the hub to check the temp. After a few times out it is easy to tell what is normal and what might be a problem. A warmer than normal hub could be bearing or a brake that might be dragging. An under inflated tire can also add heat to the hub. Goose
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Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee
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Anthony Valenzano
Groupie 
Joined: 09 Apr 2013 Location: Archbald Pa Online Status: Offline Posts: 44 |
Posted: 14 May 2013 at 10:40am |
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my 2 cents: Zerk fittings are a bad for modern bearing assemblies. Squeezing too much grease into them can force grease around the seal and once the grease around the seal is dissolved, allow a path for water intrusion. Zerk fittings are from a time when seals didn't even exist and you had to squeeze in grease on a daily basis to keep out water. They are still used on joints that don't have bearings and/or don't have seals, like on tractors. Those zerk fittings are probably on there for when that axle is used in boats, boats are a little different because you splash hot bearings into water and make steam, which easily dissolves grease. I don't think there is a single zerk fitting on modern cars.
I just repack - and I'll check it again in a couple years. As a reference, I have a cargo trailer with the same type of bearings. I haven't touched them in ten years and they still run fine. I'm sure they are due for service, but gives you an idea how long they can last if they don't get water in them. If the seal does break you may only have a couple of months before they are shot. The best thing you can do for your bearings, after a repack, is just get in the habit of putting your hand on the hubs when you stop for gas. This is one time when you can actually kick the tire to see if the bearings are tight enough as well. As for temperature, they should be slightly elevated in temperature, but not burning hot. If they are burning hot, get to the nearest place for repair. If they seem warmer than usual, it might be time to service them when you get home. It's a little harder to tell, because the R-pods have that plastic cover on the hubs.
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hogone
Senior Member
Joined: 09 Apr 2013 Location: St. Louis Online Status: Offline Posts: 1043 |
Posted: 14 May 2013 at 10:00am |
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In between inspection and repacking of the bearings, is it a good idea to squirt some grease in the zerk, or is this not necessary? And if so, how much?
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Burt
Groupie
Joined: 04 May 2012 Online Status: Offline Posts: 62 |
Posted: 13 May 2013 at 12:20am |
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bamster:
Thanks for your post about the bearings. I checked ours and to my delight, found that there were bearing buddies on them. The grease was good as were the bearings and I learned about how to jack up the POD as well. All good stuff and reminders.  Burt |
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bhamster
Senior Member
Joined: 19 May 2011 Location: Washington Online Status: Offline Posts: 165 |
Posted: 08 May 2013 at 1:45pm |
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That's another great point. Even if the bearings are in good shape, the preload needs to be adjusted as the bearings wear. Your procedure sounds similar to mine. I tightened as much as I could with a small crescent wrench while turning the wheel (this is really just to seat them properly and "smush" the grease). Then I backed off until the nut was loose, tighened again with my fingers until it catches, and then finished tightening with the wrench to the next point where I could insert the pin. So basically 1/4-turn or so past finger-tight. It should spin freely but not wobble.
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Anthony Valenzano
Groupie
Joined: 09 Apr 2013 Location: Archbald Pa Online Status: Offline Posts: 44 |
Posted: 08 May 2013 at 1:32pm |
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I re-greased my bearings on my 2010 yesterday. They were in very good shape. No signs of rust at all. I was surprised at how loose the castle nut was. I wouldn't even say it was finger tight. So I'm glad I looked at it. There might have been enough slack to start some wobble. Normally when I do bearings, I tighten them good with a wrench, at which point the wheel won't turn, then I back them off until the wheel spins freely, then back it off until I can insert the pin.
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bhamster
Senior Member
Joined: 19 May 2011 Location: Washington Online Status: Offline Posts: 165 |
Posted: 02 May 2013 at 3:41pm |
It's not hard at all... just messy. I used the majority of a "box of rags" switching between messy jobs and clean jobs (like taking pictures). Since everything was new for me this time each step took a few attempts due to new tools and unfamiliar procedures. By far, the hardest was removing the rusted race, but even that only took a few minutes once I found a nice-sized metal rod to bang it out with. The videos on etrailer are a great starting point.
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Alex&Marie
Groupie
Joined: 25 Feb 2012 Location: Virginia Online Status: Offline Posts: 63 |
Posted: 02 May 2013 at 12:37pm |
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nice write up and great pictures!
You have motivated me (for one) to tackle this - this weekend if the weather holds. My mileage on the R-pod is probably on the high side for a trailer that is only 14 months old: about 12,000 miles. I'll let the group know what I find. |
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Alex and Marie
2012 R-pod 177 2006 Toyota Tundra 
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Don't ignore your bearings!